looking for some lift coils for my 76 f150
4" lift coils... let me know what website or who has them..

looking for something reasonably cheap in price.. lol

 

don't forget about the c bushings to make it work right. jeffs bronco graveyard seems to have the cheapest kits. They have the kit with the bushings and rear blocks also. Early Bronco Restoration Full Size Bronco Restoration Classic Ford Bronco Parts For Sale

 

are radius drop brackets an ideal thing to get? is it a MUST to have when lifting 4"

and i shouldnt have to extend my driveline right? if i went over 4" lift then i would?


iam thinkin bout gettin this kit
Item #23804 - New
1976-79 Ford F-150 4wd
Black Bushings

This is the basic lift kit, it includes:
-Superlift Coils
-Superlift Blocks
-Drop Trac-Bar Bracket
-Daystar 14 Piece Black C-Bushing Kit
NOTE:
Sway Bar Drop Links Recommended, Driveshafts may need to be lengthened!

Tire / Wheel Recommendations 34 x 12.50 on standard offset wheel
Our Price: $245.00

so if i got this iam gunna have to get shocks, extended brake lines, pitman arm ?

 

Last summer I did a 4-inch lift on my 73 and highly recommend getting new poly RA bushings. RA drop brackets are not required. Daystar & Energy Suspension both offer C-bushing kits for 2-4 inches of lift and 4-7 inches of lift. I chose to install RA drop brackets because they restore the horizontal relationship btwn the frame & axle closer to stock than only the C-bushings compensating for the mismatch.

Based on my experience lifting my rig:

Dropped pitman arm? YES, you'll need dropped version.
Driveshaft lengthen? I did not get longer shafts.
Brake lines?...
Front? My fronts were long enough.
Rear? It is really close. I'll be getting the extended rear line from JBG for my peace of mind.
Axle vent hoses... I added more slack by re-positioning the hose at the upper clamp.


TIPS

1. Power wash the undercarriage & existing suspension before you start. Working on a cleaner vehicle for me was less "work" and more enjoyable.
2. A few days ahead, apply and reapply a penetrating lube like WD-40 or Kroil to all the nuts & bolts that you will be removing.
3. Removing the existing radius arm brackets is a pain if yours are riveted to the frame. I think 76s were bolted. Lucky you?
4. Have a breaker bar at the ready (C-brackets!)
5. Snug everything down then torque all the nuts & bolts with the rig's weight on the suspension. I used threadlocker on all nuts that were not Nylon-lined.
6. Replace all cotter pins.
7. Wear eye protection! It's amazing what falls out of these things.
8. Chock the rear wheels fore and aft and make sure your jackstands are securely positioned.
9. My RA drop brackets' holes didn't line up very well with the stock RA brackets' holes. I had to use a Dremel to get them to line-up.

HIO Silver
73 F100 "The F-Bomb", 390FE, NP435, NP203, +4 on 35s
01 SuperCrew Lariat 4x4, 5.4L
68 Mustang 200-1v
65 Mustang 289-4v

 

the kit you listed is what i'm doing now. you don't need the drop brackets, but it makes it nicer. I have driven them without the drop pitman arm and it was fine, but it also makes it a little nicer. just depends on how much you want to spend. If you have a 2 piece rear driveshaft you might need a different one, if it's one piece it will be fine. Brake lines are hit or miss, some are actually longer then others, not sure if it's just luck of the draw on replacment parts, or if some trucks are different. Also you will need longer shocks, most of the time the old ones are wore out anyway.

I just pulled the front end apart on my 78 bronco today, I'm putting that lift on it as soon as the parts get in. should be the end of the week. I found that a torch was my best friend, I get the area around the lower spring mount bolts good and hot and pray they don't break. And it's good for cutting off the shocks, they are usually rusted on. Also check the rear of the radius arm where the bushing goes to the frame, sometimes they are rusted so bad they get really thin, I have had to throw some of them away because they were scary thin.

I can try and get some pics when I get it put together for you if you want to see it assembled

 

yes please put up some pics of when u receive the kit.. thanks mann..

iam 16yrs old with no job so iam looking for something i can afford or save up for !!

 

hey man, this is what you want. you DO NOT want lift blocks. unless your using your truck for mall crawling...blocks are not the way to go if your going to be putting a load in your bed or on the hitch or wheeling it. you dont need a drop pitman arm, brake line extensions or drive train extensions or tcase drop for 4" lift. this is the kit i have for my truck
Superlift Coil Springs, 4" Lift
JBG, 4-5" Lift Front, Rear of Axle axle
JBG, 3-4" Lift Rear, Original Rear
Drop Trac-Bar Bracket 1976-77 the trac bar bracket for YOUR TRUCK
WITH these shackle flips for the rear. this changes your shackle angle and makes for a "performance" lift in the rear. NEVER go with blocks
Full Sized Shackle Flip Kit [FORDFLIP] - $185.00

all that comes up to around $530, with shocks. which is not bad at all for a safe lift kit. going with blocks starts up more axel twist and will break your blocks, which leaves you with 4" of play between your axel and leaf springs, which is def. not what you need driving down the road.

 

hey, clhart426 i appreciate your info..

ive always been told and know that not to use blocks.. thanks for pointing out the shackles for me.. But ive always been told to put a drop pitman arm otherwise id be all over the road you tell me..

with the stuff you pointed out.. and the links i came up to $467 not $530

is this a good thing to look into?


or just replace the current shock up there?

please put into mind that this is a daily driver and i will be taking it off road once n a while


let me know.. thanks

 

i think yours came up cheaper because the shocks are only one front and one rear. add another 60$ on for shocks, and then shipping. yea, when i first got into looking at lifts, it seemed i needed a new pitman arm, but its not needed. the drop trac bar will "move" your axel straighten that out for you. ****i actually have those on my truck now**** the front dual shock set up. if you get that, thats another 60$ in shocks for your truck. because if you lift it 4", youll have to get longer shocks all around. The dual shocks are nice to have, it makes for a stiffer ride, but it helps when you got a load on your truck and taking corners. Just remember when your ordering shocks, that you know which one your actually buying. because with the dual shock set up, there will be a shock in front of the front axel, and behind the front axel. the one infront of the axel(i beleive) is longer. but broncograveyard spells that out for you when searching

 

i would just replace the 4 stock shocks. im getting tired of my stiff riding truck, and i feel if i took those extra shocks off, itd help out a bit. i used to use my truck as a wood hauler and thats what i bought those for. but now that im done doing that, pretty much uneeded. although they do look cool! oh, and dont forget to order shock boot covers, which are 12$ for four of em

 

subscribing Doing same to my 78soon!

 

decided to wait on lifting my truck right now...


found some leveling coils on craigslist for 50

drove 1 hour and paid he said i could have them for 40

so now i got leveling springs/coils for the front..

probably put them in tomorrow

 

everyone talks trash about body lifts, but for what you need i'd say that the springs you bought and a two or three inch body lift would look good and make you happy

 

yeah, i think id rather pass on the body lift and save up for an actual nice suspension lift kit...

 

theres a reason why people trash body lifts.
there crap And devalue the truck.
in my opinion, save the money to do a suspension lift or dont lift it.

I waited three years to lift my jeep 5 inches. that included saving up for everything I would need to complete the lift the correct way and it was well worth the wait.