Originally Posted by polarspeed

Julie,

I have had the truck for approximately 6 weeks and I have replaced the master cylinder, front wheel cylinders, all flex lines, replaced the shoe springs, installed the auto adjusters from the '66 F100 and the front driver side solid brake line. I deglazed the front shoes and cleaned them and the drums. The rear cylinders returned clear fluid when I bled the system but have not cracked the rear drums to inspect the drums and shoes nor to install of the new goodies. Good job! But when you adjusting/deglazed the front shoes and didn't do the backs, that increased the grabbing power of the fronts - probably why you had the back wanting to pass you! I'd take the backes off, deglaze them, and properly adjust them, drive backward stepping on the brakes to let the self adjusters fine tune them then you should be ok with brakes.

The truck was "regularly" driven but I am not sure if it sat for a long time before he stated that he was driving it. The tank was not cleaned to my knowledge. I have installed a new locking gas cap from Sacramento vintage ford along with a new float, sender gasket and hose from the filler tube to the tank. I am not sure if it is vented. It was for this model truck. I have not done anything with the fuel lines, filter or fuel pump. The carburetor only has a new air filter on top. I am not sure if it has ever been rebuilt. The next time your truck starts to loose power, pull over tot he side of the road and remove the gas cap - see if there is any suction on it. Gas caps that fit our trucks were used on almost 30 years of trucks, so it wouldn't be unusual for it to be more generic and possibly not vented - and that will cause you problems like you describe. Dirt in the fuel tank or lines will also do what you were talking about. It's the same cause - the fuel pump is trying to pull and the gas won't flow because of a restriction - either to the flow or to allowing air in to replace the used gas.

I also replaced all of the PCV stuff with new valve, grommets, tubing and breather cap. This seems to have fixed the initial rough idle. I also replaced the vacuum line to the vacuum advance on the distributor, but not sure if that is working or not. Great choices - that's probably working ok.

The alternator is a GM one-wire type. There are loose wires everywhere. Think that's a problem that needs to be cleaned up! There are the stock gauges that are not working. These would work if you installed voltage reducers on the back of the gas gauge, and converted the temp and oil to mechanical (since you don't have the original sending units) I have a gallery that has pictures and step by step instructions on how to do that. There are aftermarket gauges hanging below the dash that are not working either. I have not looked at the distributor, rotor or points. Those sound like they are working fine - usually if it runs and runs good they are ok. Did you replace the coil? About 50% of all new oil filled coils are bad. They start to fail when they get warm (engine gets warmed up) and they act just like you are running out of gas.

I like the order in which are suggested to do things. Brakes/clutch, Fuel, spark and then charging system. It gives me the motivation to clean everything up and get everything in the right place in the cleanest path possible. It will be helpful to eliminate all extra wire and organize the mess of rainbow colored wires. I'll post a simplified wiring diagram for your power flow below. Any opinions on the GM alternator? I'd keep it - it's a good product. You may want to ask some GM guys how big their balance pulley is so you can make sure you are getting enough rpm on the alternator at idle rpm though. And ya gotta clean up the wiring - that's a must. Is it best to go back to the ford and the external regulator? Nope, most folks WANT the GM alternator because of it's one wire function. I don't like the idea of a GM part spoiling my Ford Truck. I promise not to tell anyone you are a "Darksider!"

Any hint of a starter problem? I am starting to think that it is fine. Fix the alternator/wiring problems first then if the starter is still "iffy" replace it AND the solenoid. They are cheap. I just replaced mine and the starter and solenoid together were only $65.

Thanks for your input, Steve

Originally Posted by polarspeed

Hello again.... I have always wondered why the title PO came with some sense of distain. I am starting to understand this. While taking off the alternator to go have it tested. I noticed that the water pump/fan pulley is dragging on the crankcase pulley. This complicates the issues a bit. I have also noticed a pool of radiator fluid sitting on top of the water pump. I hope that a change in the bypass hoses will improve this appearance. There was also oil all over the alternator that is being slung from the front motor seals, oil pan gasket or valve cover gaskets.

The wires were all starting places and ending nowhere.

This is really going to be fun! I am learning so much with the help of all of you.

Thanks again, Steve