Swaping Cabs
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Joined: Nov 2009
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Swaping Cabs
I am in the process of tearing down the cab on my parts truck. The parts truck is an '86 250 gasser. Other than switching out the wiring harness what else is there to watch out for.
I am going to switch the cabs and front quarter panels.
The heater blower on the diesel sucks doesnt really have different speeds. Wondering if the fan or the switch is more know for problems.
Both trucks have cruise, the diesel has stock controls in the steering wheel. The gasser has the aftermarket control on the turn signal. The diesel's cruise doesnt work but how can i get it to work with of both systems and how to test it.
The gasser has 4.10 rear end while the diesel has a 3.55 with a 4 speed manual. Which rear end would be the best for highway and city driving?
Thanks still trying to figure this all out.
I am going to switch the cabs and front quarter panels.
The heater blower on the diesel sucks doesnt really have different speeds. Wondering if the fan or the switch is more know for problems.
Both trucks have cruise, the diesel has stock controls in the steering wheel. The gasser has the aftermarket control on the turn signal. The diesel's cruise doesnt work but how can i get it to work with of both systems and how to test it.
The gasser has 4.10 rear end while the diesel has a 3.55 with a 4 speed manual. Which rear end would be the best for highway and city driving?
Thanks still trying to figure this all out.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,111
Likes: 1,549
From: western SD
When we did this on my 85 we used an 86 f150 donor that had a 302 with an auto tranny. We use the wiring harness from the diesel, Needed from the fuse box to the headlights. Also had to use the fuel tank selector switch from the diesel, as the gasser switch would not activate the fuel valve. Had to use the clutch and brake peddles from the diesel as it is manual tranny.
I would use the blower out of the gasser if it was working good. The diesel probably needs the resistor that is located in the blower box.
Can't help on the cruse control as I use mine as a work truck on the ranch. We did not transfer any of that stuff over.
If you are not towing any large, heavy loads I would use the 3.55s.
All in all it was a pretty easy switch. Hope this helps.
I would use the blower out of the gasser if it was working good. The diesel probably needs the resistor that is located in the blower box.
Can't help on the cruse control as I use mine as a work truck on the ranch. We did not transfer any of that stuff over.
If you are not towing any large, heavy loads I would use the 3.55s.
All in all it was a pretty easy switch. Hope this helps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
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From: Faibanks Ak.
If you do it like this you have 6 bolts the wiring and emergency cables and the radiator and your good to go in about 2 to 3 hours. You have to use the diesel radiator support, but you can do that after you have the cab bolted down.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
You're probably best off to pull the entire dash and wiring harness and swap it over, that's what I found was the easiest when I built my IDI truck, the harness is attached to the dash, and it just makes it easier to work with.
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Thanks for the photos, i started the tear down and have half the steel off and the whole dash out of the gas parts truck. The dash in the parts truck is the one i will use and just insert the diesel instrument panel so it is basically taking 2 trucks and mx mash the 2 together. I plan on repainting all the dash and interior panels.
