Idiling problem
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New User
Joined: Feb 2010
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Idiling problem
I just bought a 94 F350 with the 7.3 IDI, the truck for the most part runs great but when coming to a stop as I push the clutch in the engine acts like it is going to die then returns to a normal idle. There are no acceleration problems or missing. Only problem is when the rpm's drop to idle. Just curious as to what could cause this and how to fix it. Thanks- Ben
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,409
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From: back in SE Iowa
ok cool.im wondering if there is an issue with the clutch.i havent messed around with trannies much to be honest.my first thought was slave cylinder but there is a good chance im way off.someone else will be along to give ya more possibilities
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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Flush the IP with Diesel Kleen - warm up the engine good, shut it off, pull the fuel filter, dump all the fuel out of it, fill it back up with Diesel Kleen (or SeaFoam, or whatever else you happen to have faith in), spin it back on, fire up the truck and run her for 30 seconds, shut her off again and let he sit for a few hours, preferably overnight. Next time you fire her up all the fuel deposits that were clogging your IP internals and making your governor sticky will be flushed out and problem should hopefully disappear. I did this to my truck when she was trying to die on me when I let off the throttle and let the rpms drop to idle quick, I used SeaFoam and it worked great. If you go with SeaFoam do NOT dump it in the intake or any vacuum hose, in the fuel filter or fuel tanks is the only way to administer this medicine to a diesel. After the flush, adding a quart of transmission fluid to the tanks every time you fill up is a good preventive measure, however it may turn your fuel redish and get you in trouble if you get stopped by the DOT goons and get your tanks dipped.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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yeah, I think his issue comes into play after he pushes the clutch in and allows the engine to idle down, if it was the clutch not releasing properly then the idle would not improve on its own after the initial stumble.
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Thanks guys, I'm going to get some of that sea foam stuff, I have been told about ATF so I'll be dodgin smokey. Also the guy I bought it from said he had replaced the slave cylinder last year but not the master. I've been told they SHOULD be replaced as a set. The idle actually will remain kindy ruff until I tap the throttle. I'll let ya know how the fuel filter cleaning goes. Thanks
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
Sounds like you're suffering from lack of lubricity in the fuel; Thank you ULSD. I'm not sure why everyone uses ATF for the IP flush, todays high detergent engine oils would do the same job and be transparent to the FUEL 'SNOOPS'.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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If you wanna run ATF then just make sure you dump in some WMO (filtered of course) to turn the fuel blackish - ATF is okay with the chem tests some DOT goons are performing, and so is WMO, it's just the red color that can mess you up if they only look for color and do not have the chem test kit with them, and only cause offroad diesel happens to be dyed red too, black color is okay tho.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2010
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nut sure, but....
My 7.3 idi did that when I had air in the fuel line, so check your return lines for leaks. If you find one (or more) block off the return lines at the fuel filter until you can get the kit. Diesel performance parts and accessories. Diesel injectors, pumps, filters, kits, additive, gauges and apparel. has one for 40 bucks that has all the lines, o-rings, nipples, clamps, etc, etc. If the metal lines are cracked (happens more than you would think) midwest also sells those. DONT try to use rubber hose, they will blow up like baloon animals. Hope this helps.
