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351 refresh
ok guys. I got a 95 Ford Bronco contrary to my name on here. It has 205k miles right now. The engine, tranny, and axles are all stock and have had nothing done to them. Sorry, It is a 351w efi auto eddie bauer edition with all the goodies. and 3.73s runnin on some 31 10.5s. Pure stock. the only thing I have done is put a kandn filter on it.
I am planning on having the engine rebuilt sometime soon along with the tranny and replacin the gears in the axles.
I was just wondering what exactly yall would suggest for some more hp and torque, and what the tranny needs to hold that new power.
I am thinking maybe boring it out a little, possibly strokin, new intake, long tube headers, cam, pistons, pretty much a full rebuild. I would also like to know what yall think about doing to the tranny.
Thanks in advance guys. All ideas are welcome.
The motor will be a daily driver and be raced occasionally. I dont race alot, like once a month or so and its usually just friends that I mess with. I am keepin it an auto with the 3.73s in the axles.
I am planning on having the engine rebuilt sometime soon along with the tranny and replacin the gears in the axles.
I was just wondering what exactly yall would suggest for some more hp and torque, and what the tranny needs to hold that new power.
I am thinking maybe boring it out a little, possibly strokin, new intake, long tube headers, cam, pistons, pretty much a full rebuild. I would also like to know what yall think about doing to the tranny.
Thanks in advance guys. All ideas are welcome.
The motor will be a daily driver and be raced occasionally. I dont race alot, like once a month or so and its usually just friends that I mess with. I am keepin it an auto with the 3.73s in the axles.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 212
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From: Morganton, NC
There are a few ways to go, depending on just how big your budget is.
one is stock crank/rods with .030 pistons (wont need forged). Stock HO Mustang cam (prefer 87-88, but 87-93 will work great) advanced 4*. E7 heads with the exhaust bumps ground down. Stock Mustang headers if they will work, with a straight through muffler (no flowmasters!)
one step up from that is a 3.85" stroke crank, 351W rods, and 302 pistons, which makes a 393 stroker. GT40 heads and a Wolverine 1087 profiled cam (they are no longer made, but I THINK comp cams has the same grind) with a Weiand Stealth carb intake and either your fuel injection put onto that with a elbow, or a 650 edelbrock Thunder AVS carb. Aftermarket headers with 1.75 minimum primaries and 2.5" exhaust with a H pipe. straight through muffler only! 1.7 roller rockers, under drive pulleys, the whole nine yards.
orrr... 408 stroker kit with AFR 225 heads, custom cam, Vic SR intake, and a 950 DP holley with 2.125" primary headers, 3.5" exhaust etc etc.
it all depends on what "budget", "racing", and "streetability" means to you. Myself, all I need in a vehicle is a seat, a steering wheel and a engine that will last 10k miles before a rebuild.
one is stock crank/rods with .030 pistons (wont need forged). Stock HO Mustang cam (prefer 87-88, but 87-93 will work great) advanced 4*. E7 heads with the exhaust bumps ground down. Stock Mustang headers if they will work, with a straight through muffler (no flowmasters!)
one step up from that is a 3.85" stroke crank, 351W rods, and 302 pistons, which makes a 393 stroker. GT40 heads and a Wolverine 1087 profiled cam (they are no longer made, but I THINK comp cams has the same grind) with a Weiand Stealth carb intake and either your fuel injection put onto that with a elbow, or a 650 edelbrock Thunder AVS carb. Aftermarket headers with 1.75 minimum primaries and 2.5" exhaust with a H pipe. straight through muffler only! 1.7 roller rockers, under drive pulleys, the whole nine yards.
orrr... 408 stroker kit with AFR 225 heads, custom cam, Vic SR intake, and a 950 DP holley with 2.125" primary headers, 3.5" exhaust etc etc.
it all depends on what "budget", "racing", and "streetability" means to you. Myself, all I need in a vehicle is a seat, a steering wheel and a engine that will last 10k miles before a rebuild.
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Senior User
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There are a few ways to go, depending on just how big your budget is.
one is stock crank/rods with .030 pistons (wont need forged). Stock HO Mustang cam (prefer 87-88, but 87-93 will work great) advanced 4*. E7 heads with the exhaust bumps ground down. Stock Mustang headers if they will work, with a straight through muffler (no flowmasters!)
one step up from that is a 3.85" stroke crank, 351W rods, and 302 pistons, which makes a 393 stroker. GT40 heads and a Wolverine 1087 profiled cam (they are no longer made, but I THINK comp cams has the same grind) with a Weiand Stealth carb intake and either your fuel injection put onto that with a elbow, or a 650 edelbrock Thunder AVS carb. Aftermarket headers with 1.75 minimum primaries and 2.5" exhaust with a H pipe. straight through muffler only! 1.7 roller rockers, under drive pulleys, the whole nine yards.
orrr... 408 stroker kit with AFR 225 heads, custom cam, Vic SR intake, and a 950 DP holley with 2.125" primary headers, 3.5" exhaust etc etc.
it all depends on what "budget", "racing", and "streetability" means to you. Myself, all I need in a vehicle is a seat, a steering wheel and a engine that will last 10k miles before a rebuild.
one is stock crank/rods with .030 pistons (wont need forged). Stock HO Mustang cam (prefer 87-88, but 87-93 will work great) advanced 4*. E7 heads with the exhaust bumps ground down. Stock Mustang headers if they will work, with a straight through muffler (no flowmasters!)
one step up from that is a 3.85" stroke crank, 351W rods, and 302 pistons, which makes a 393 stroker. GT40 heads and a Wolverine 1087 profiled cam (they are no longer made, but I THINK comp cams has the same grind) with a Weiand Stealth carb intake and either your fuel injection put onto that with a elbow, or a 650 edelbrock Thunder AVS carb. Aftermarket headers with 1.75 minimum primaries and 2.5" exhaust with a H pipe. straight through muffler only! 1.7 roller rockers, under drive pulleys, the whole nine yards.
orrr... 408 stroker kit with AFR 225 heads, custom cam, Vic SR intake, and a 950 DP holley with 2.125" primary headers, 3.5" exhaust etc etc.
it all depends on what "budget", "racing", and "streetability" means to you. Myself, all I need in a vehicle is a seat, a steering wheel and a engine that will last 10k miles before a rebuild.
oh and I want it dependable. My motor now has never been touched, at least to my knowledge. I would like this motor to run close to that long, 200+k. I am keeping the fuel injection too. I was thinkin more of first idea but with some more ideas on the pistons, cam, etc. I will be running long tube headers and most likely true dual exhaust.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Rebuild the bottom end to stock specs and find a set of GT40 heads for it, install a HO cam with 1.7 rockers and a full exhaust system including headers and you'll have 300hp that drives like a stock motor.. no other mods necessary besides a shift kit for the trans.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
also fyi the gears in your bronco stock are 3.55. 3.73's where never offered. if you are planning on a gear swap what gears are you thinking? tire size usually dictates gear ratio and 31's dont fall into that need.
i like conanski's suggestion, this will give you best driveability and longevity. start looking for some local machine shops that do quality work to have the bottem end done.
i like conanski's suggestion, this will give you best driveability and longevity. start looking for some local machine shops that do quality work to have the bottem end done.
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also fyi the gears in your bronco stock are 3.55. 3.73's where never offered. if you are planning on a gear swap what gears are you thinking? tire size usually dictates gear ratio and 31's dont fall into that need.
i like conanski's suggestion, this will give you best driveability and longevity. start looking for some local machine shops that do quality work to have the bottem end done.
i like conanski's suggestion, this will give you best driveability and longevity. start looking for some local machine shops that do quality work to have the bottem end done.
By rebuilding the bottom end what do you mean? I am a new guy to rebuilding engines. I have read on here that the 1.7 rockers dont do much, is that true? What exactly do you mean by HO cam? I have read about these cams a few times but I have not seen it.
GT40s are expensive from what I have read is there any reasonable prices on heads that are approximately the same? Are there any shift kits you would suggest over the others? I think I have a E40D tranny. Is this correct?
Sorry for all the questions guys. I am just tryin to learn some stuff here. Thanks for all the posts too
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 212
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From: Morganton, NC
If you wanna go simple with the bottom end, just put new rings and bearings in it.
The 1.72's in combination with the HO cam will wake the engine up a lot from what it came with from the factory.
The HO cam is a cam from 87-93 MUSTANGS with a 5.0 engine. There are other year of HO's, but they don't make the power than the 87-93's did.
If the $300 for GT40's is too much, just keep your factory heads, they are the next best in factory heads.
The 1.72's in combination with the HO cam will wake the engine up a lot from what it came with from the factory.
The HO cam is a cam from 87-93 MUSTANGS with a 5.0 engine. There are other year of HO's, but they don't make the power than the 87-93's did.
If the $300 for GT40's is too much, just keep your factory heads, they are the next best in factory heads.
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If you wanna go simple with the bottom end, just put new rings and bearings in it.
The 1.72's in combination with the HO cam will wake the engine up a lot from what it came with from the factory.
The HO cam is a cam from 87-93 MUSTANGS with a 5.0 engine. There are other year of HO's, but they don't make the power than the 87-93's did.
If the $300 for GT40's is too much, just keep your factory heads, they are the next best in factory heads.
The 1.72's in combination with the HO cam will wake the engine up a lot from what it came with from the factory.
The HO cam is a cam from 87-93 MUSTANGS with a 5.0 engine. There are other year of HO's, but they don't make the power than the 87-93's did.
If the $300 for GT40's is too much, just keep your factory heads, they are the next best in factory heads.
What exactly is the 1.72s? I understand what the cam is but I dont know what the 1.72's are. and where would you recommend buying them?
So with a mild bore, the larger pistons, the rings, bearings, the HO cam and these 1.72s I will have a pretty reliable powerhouse? Thanks for the info guys. ok now with the engine done.
how bout exhaust? I was thinking long tubes into a custom dual kit with an x pipe. I might throw on some type of muffler to keep it from waking the town. What would yall suggest for the exhaust? Will the long tubes interfere with my front axle in a stock height 95 bronco? if so shortys?
Thanks again for all the help guys
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 212
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From: Morganton, NC
The GT40's came from the factory on 93-95 cobras, 1st gen lightinings, and 96-early97 explorers. You were looking at alum Ford Racing Performance Parts heads. They are $1000+ a set.
The 1.72's are roller rockers. You will need a pedistal mount rocker, and Crane 1.72's are popular.
The bore, pistons, rings and bearings wont really give you any HP. The cam, rockers, heads, and exhaust will get you up to 260HP at the flywheel, maybe more depending on how well the intake flows.
I'd go with dynomax racing bullets with cheap longtubes and a X pipe.
The 1.72's are roller rockers. You will need a pedistal mount rocker, and Crane 1.72's are popular.
The bore, pistons, rings and bearings wont really give you any HP. The cam, rockers, heads, and exhaust will get you up to 260HP at the flywheel, maybe more depending on how well the intake flows.
I'd go with dynomax racing bullets with cheap longtubes and a X pipe.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
96-97 explorer's had the gt40P heads which are different and a pain. 95 explorer had the regular gt40
in regards to the bottem end, have it done by a machine shop. there is more involved then just replaceing bearings and rings. in most cases you wont even need the cylinders bored out, a quick hone to clean them up is best. also having the machine shop put the bottem end together they will know exact specs and order/install the correct parts.
in regards to the bottem end, have it done by a machine shop. there is more involved then just replaceing bearings and rings. in most cases you wont even need the cylinders bored out, a quick hone to clean them up is best. also having the machine shop put the bottem end together they will know exact specs and order/install the correct parts.
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Instead of the HO cam would a comp 35-320-8 cam be any better. I have seen it mentioned a lot in the 351 threads I have been reading. I also would like to know what pistons would yall recommend? and what is a good price for all the parts listed like the machining, pistons, heads, cam, etc.?
I was just wanting to put together a list and find a machine shop close by to get some estimates.
I was also thinking about the exhaust again. What would yall suggest for an aggressive rumble. I would like a pretty loud exhaust but only really loud when I get on it. I like a deep sounding rumble in the lower rpms. My truck now has approximately a blown out cat left and I think it sounds good. I want to run duals or at least dual exit pipes. I just like the look of dual chrome tips. I dont want to spend a whole lot on the exhaust. So cheaper mufflers or cats or glasspacks are preferable. Just what a good setup yall have heard that sounds good.
Again thanks yall for the help
I was just wanting to put together a list and find a machine shop close by to get some estimates.
I was also thinking about the exhaust again. What would yall suggest for an aggressive rumble. I would like a pretty loud exhaust but only really loud when I get on it. I like a deep sounding rumble in the lower rpms. My truck now has approximately a blown out cat left and I think it sounds good. I want to run duals or at least dual exit pipes. I just like the look of dual chrome tips. I dont want to spend a whole lot on the exhaust. So cheaper mufflers or cats or glasspacks are preferable. Just what a good setup yall have heard that sounds good.
Again thanks yall for the help
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
well your 5.8 has a roller cam in there so just keep the Lobe seperation 114* and above and your ok along with the power low in the rpm range. if the cam doesnt start making power till 2500rpms it will suck in a heavy bronco.
I have already expressed my exhaust suggestions in the bronco forum. i am running a hooker aerochamber muffler. 3" in/out. this thing sounds great. if i let off the gas its almost silent but when i get on it you can tell for sure its there. also what i like most about this muffler is it doesnt resonate in the cab. ive had a flowmaster 50series which is considered quiet and it was annoying going down the hwy and had more of a tinny sound then my current setup. got my muffler off ebay for under $75. i am sure you could do a single in/dual out
I have already expressed my exhaust suggestions in the bronco forum. i am running a hooker aerochamber muffler. 3" in/out. this thing sounds great. if i let off the gas its almost silent but when i get on it you can tell for sure its there. also what i like most about this muffler is it doesnt resonate in the cab. ive had a flowmaster 50series which is considered quiet and it was annoying going down the hwy and had more of a tinny sound then my current setup. got my muffler off ebay for under $75. i am sure you could do a single in/dual out
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So I was going through this evening and finding and pricing stuff for my rebuild.
Product Company Price
Long Tube Headers-Tom's Bronco Graveyard-ceramic coated nonpolished $350
1.72 rockers Scorpion $220
Cam Comp 35-255-5 $160
Heads GT40s I havent found any moderately priced stock GT40s. When it gets closer to time I will probably ask around on here for GT40 heads.
Flat Top Pistons Speed Pro Ford Flat Top Pistons $140
Machining new rings, bearings, cylinders honed and head bolts $???
I was just hoping for some input on how this list stacks up for reasonable costs and legit companies. I am curious about the Scorpion rockers and the Speed Pro pistons, in particular. The pistons seem too good to be true. Please check this ebay site and see if it seems legit to yall.
New Speed Pro Ford Flat Top Pistons 351 351W Std Bore : eBay Motors (item 400097461788 end time Mar-15-10 08:38:54 PDT)
Thanks again guys for all the help.
Product Company Price
Long Tube Headers-Tom's Bronco Graveyard-ceramic coated nonpolished $350
1.72 rockers Scorpion $220
Cam Comp 35-255-5 $160
Heads GT40s I havent found any moderately priced stock GT40s. When it gets closer to time I will probably ask around on here for GT40 heads.
Flat Top Pistons Speed Pro Ford Flat Top Pistons $140
Machining new rings, bearings, cylinders honed and head bolts $???
I was just hoping for some input on how this list stacks up for reasonable costs and legit companies. I am curious about the Scorpion rockers and the Speed Pro pistons, in particular. The pistons seem too good to be true. Please check this ebay site and see if it seems legit to yall.
New Speed Pro Ford Flat Top Pistons 351 351W Std Bore : eBay Motors (item 400097461788 end time Mar-15-10 08:38:54 PDT)
Thanks again guys for all the help.
