Air-blend door question

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Jan 20, 2003 | 04:20 PM

petem

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Air-blend door question

Hello!
I'm rebuilding my AC evaporator assembly (blower motor, heater core, etc.) on my 76 F250 and noticed that the air-blend door is sheding the foam it has on both sides. Can I strip all the remaining foam and run without it? Or should I track down a new door? Not really sure the purpose for the foam. Does it help seal the door? Thanks for any suggestions!

Feb 23, 2010 | 08:01 PM

amish77

Cargo Master

Joined: Oct 2004

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From: Seneca, SC

I'm guessing that it helps the door seal. I'd try gluing new foam on. It's the cheapest way to go.

Is AC easily graft-able onto a non-AC truck? Is it cheaper to buy a kit?

Feb 23, 2010 | 09:03 PM

4x4 Bart

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 1,326

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From: Middle TN

I used what is called headliner fabric I bought at a fabric store. It has about 1/4 inch of foam with a fabric covering which makes it strong. Then I cut it to size and used headliner spray glue to mate it to the flap. It been on my truck for over two years and works perfect.

Feb 24, 2010 | 01:16 AM

MT-F250

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From: Up North

I used a seal for mounting a topper to a truck bed. It's self adhesive foam rubber and works great.
You can buy it by the roll cheap at Napa or just about any where. They make different thicknesses also.

Jan 8, 2011 | 09:19 PM

70 Bronco TX

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From: Canyon, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT-F250

I used a seal for mounting a topper to a truck bed. It's self adhesive foam rubber and works great. You can buy it by the roll cheap at Napa or just about any where. They make different thicknesses also.

Thanks for the tip--I was searching for a replacement, did not see anything in catalogs, and came on here for a search. Good idea!

Well, I've joined the club (almost): changing the heater core on an AC truck.

I've gotten the old core out using instructions from the North Country Specialties site, just have to put the new one in and get it together. Couldn't have done it without those instructions.

My windows were fogging up...in fact, there was steam/smoke coming out of the vents. Checked under the carpet and yes there was fluid. Dang. Changed one out of a 70 Bronco and this might have been easier since I didn't have to take the whole box out. Has taken 2.5 hours to this point, but much of it was spent trying to get to some far-flung screws and extracting the hoses from the old heater core.

A quick question but I'll also do a search: is the aluminum heater core a bad idea? Is it a "must" to go with a brass/copper unit or what?

Dan

Jan 9, 2011 | 01:44 AM

MT-F250

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From: Up North

I purchased a new heater core from Nappa, when the parts guy brought it to the counter it was aluminum but wasn't going to fit with the factory rubber seal. I had him look some more and he found a copper one that was exact fit.

I figure if it fits whatever it is, might as well use it.

Jan 9, 2011 | 09:15 AM

HIO Silver

Fleet Owner

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 20,678

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From: NorCal

I'd go with a copper/brass unit... less susceptible to corrosion (like your home's piping) than aluminum although any metal component has lifecycle to it.