? wts light on with manual glow plug mod.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Northren MN.
? wts light on with manual glow plug mod.
What I did was unhook the white wire on the glow plug controller.
Ran a wire from that prong to a push button switch, and the other side of the switch to a ground.
Now when I turn the key on the wait to start light comes on.
It stays on for the 10 to 13 seconds that it should, then goes off.
I run the glow plugs for 6 seconds, cranked the engine for 10. Ran the glow plugs for 5 more seconds, cranked the engine for about 6 more seconds, then she fired up. All this at 10 degrees, without being plugged in. It's the best yet.
What I was thinking that the light shouldn't be lit until I pushed the button, activating the glow plugs.
Will that light come on without the glow plugs being powered? And can I start the engine with the wait to start light on, without damaging anything?
I also hooked up a kill switch to the fss, coming from up by the battery, into my glove box. That way I can lock the glove box and have double protection. The only thing I worry about now is the wire is about 4 inchs from the exhaust pipe. I don't think it should get hot enough to melt the wires, but if they do I know how to fix it in about 5 minutes.
Ran a wire from that prong to a push button switch, and the other side of the switch to a ground.
Now when I turn the key on the wait to start light comes on.
It stays on for the 10 to 13 seconds that it should, then goes off.
I run the glow plugs for 6 seconds, cranked the engine for 10. Ran the glow plugs for 5 more seconds, cranked the engine for about 6 more seconds, then she fired up. All this at 10 degrees, without being plugged in. It's the best yet.
What I was thinking that the light shouldn't be lit until I pushed the button, activating the glow plugs.
Will that light come on without the glow plugs being powered? And can I start the engine with the wait to start light on, without damaging anything?
I also hooked up a kill switch to the fss, coming from up by the battery, into my glove box. That way I can lock the glove box and have double protection. The only thing I worry about now is the wire is about 4 inchs from the exhaust pipe. I don't think it should get hot enough to melt the wires, but if they do I know how to fix it in about 5 minutes.
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I am no techie but I can tell you I followed the simple mod people talk about around here and it took like 5 minutes. Leaving the gp controller in place, unplugging a post, then wiring the momentary switch in the cab.
I also installed an extra red light in the dash just to draw attention to the glowplug switch
BUT my wts and red light only come on when I hit the switch myself.
I also installed an extra red light in the dash just to draw attention to the glowplug switch
BUT my wts and red light only come on when I hit the switch myself.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Northren MN.
And I hate waiting for the wait to start light to go out when the truck has only sat for a few minutes. I figure if the engine is warm, I shouldn't have to wait for glow plug to warm it up some more.
I installed the push button in the little cubby just left of the radio. You know, the one that just collects receipts, and spare change.
Last edited by rckslash2010; Feb 22, 2010 at 03:46 PM. Reason: adding more stuff
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: Northren MN.
For some reason I thought that I would burn something up if I didn't wait for the light.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,322
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From: Mi'kma'ki
{{EDIT: if it doesn't your have a problem of:
a) air intrusion
b) weak starter/poor cables,or too small gauge going to the starter/corrosion at contact points/weak batteries,or not enough CCA's/poor grounds/or a combo of these.
c) 1 or more GP's of too high resistance.or burnt out all together.
d) lower than stock compression
e) fuel gelling (not likely if its fresh winter blend tho.)
f) weak ip,or dirty/weak or dirty injectors
g) plugged fuel filter
h) weak lift pump
i) or a combination of all the above
end EDIT.}}
your glow cycle is to short at these temps and your wearing your starter extra.
give it a good 10-12 seconds at the start of the day and see how she likes that.once it starts, cycle the plugs for a couple more seconds as well.
once warm,you can forget about glow time and WTS lite.just hit the key and go.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,409
Likes: 1
From: back in SE Iowa
heck when i hit my button the wts light dont even light up but the plugs are working its weird.sometimes it will light up but as soon as i hit the button it goes out
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Northren MN.
at 10 degrees and not plugged in,you should hold the switch for a solid 10-12 seconds.it should start within 5 seconds the first time.
{{EDIT: if it doesn't your have a problem of:
a) air intrusion
b) weak starter/poor cables,or too small gauge going to the starter/corrosion at contact points/weak batteries,or not enough CCA's/poor grounds/or a combo of these.
c) 1 or more GP's of too high resistance.or burnt out all together.
d) lower than stock compression
e) fuel gelling (not likely if its fresh winter blend tho.)
f) weak ip,or dirty/weak or dirty injectors
g) plugged fuel filter
h) weak lift pump
i) or a combination of all the above
end EDIT.}}
your glow cycle is to short at these temps and your wearing your starter extra.
give it a good 10-12 seconds at the start of the day and see how she likes that.once it starts, cycle the plugs for a couple more seconds as well.
once warm,you can forget about glow time and WTS lite.just hit the key and go.
{{EDIT: if it doesn't your have a problem of:
a) air intrusion
b) weak starter/poor cables,or too small gauge going to the starter/corrosion at contact points/weak batteries,or not enough CCA's/poor grounds/or a combo of these.
c) 1 or more GP's of too high resistance.or burnt out all together.
d) lower than stock compression
e) fuel gelling (not likely if its fresh winter blend tho.)
f) weak ip,or dirty/weak or dirty injectors
g) plugged fuel filter
h) weak lift pump
i) or a combination of all the above
end EDIT.}}
your glow cycle is to short at these temps and your wearing your starter extra.
give it a good 10-12 seconds at the start of the day and see how she likes that.once it starts, cycle the plugs for a couple more seconds as well.
once warm,you can forget about glow time and WTS lite.just hit the key and go.
I'm pretty sure that I don't have any other problems. If plugged in the truck fires right off in the morning. Tomarro morning I'll hold it for 10 seconds, and I'll let you know how well it starts. I think it's suppose to be 10 degrees again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
With the 88 new style controller, the wait to start light is turned on by the controller.
Since you removed the white wire, the controller has no way to turn the glow plugs on, but it still thinks it can.
And yes, it sounds like you have some burnt out glow plugs.
Since you removed the white wire, the controller has no way to turn the glow plugs on, but it still thinks it can.
And yes, it sounds like you have some burnt out glow plugs.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Northren MN.
It was 14 degree's this morning. I pushed the glow plug button for 10 seconds, cranked engine for 10. As it was cranking it sounded like it wanted to fire. So I quit cranking and push the glow plugs for 5 seconds, then the engine fired right up.
I think that for some reason it's starting better now. I was in a situation last fall to where I had to put some cheaper glow plugs in,( I think everyone knows the ones.) I don't need anybody jumping down my throat about it though. So that may be my issue. I don't think that I want to dump an other $100 into it right now, but I know I should.
I'm kind of ignorant some times.
I think that for some reason it's starting better now. I was in a situation last fall to where I had to put some cheaper glow plugs in,( I think everyone knows the ones.) I don't need anybody jumping down my throat about it though. So that may be my issue. I don't think that I want to dump an other $100 into it right now, but I know I should.
I'm kind of ignorant some times.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,322
Likes: 789
From: Mi'kma'ki
when you crank it (turn it over) can you count the revolutions?
yeah,when $'s tight its hard.i think we can all relate to that.
you can score the motorcraft plugs online for about 10$ each.just so you know,when your ready.
when's the last time you took the grounds off the block and cleaned them?
in 88,i think i read,there may be only one ground actually.anyway,it doesn't cost anything,and can really make a big difference in case ya wanna try it.
unbolt it,and take some sand paper,and make the block nice and shiny where it bolts.clean the threads and make the back side of the bolt where it compresses the cable end,to shine too.then grease it up real good.clean that lug there too of course.
do the same thing down at the positive connection at the starter as well.(be sure to unhook it from the batteries before unhooking from the starter to clean it,or sparks could fly lol.)
when they spin over fast,they start much quicker.
a good tip for ya,and best of all,its free maintenance too.
your starter will really thank you as well.
(of course,do the usual cleaning of the battery terminals too.)
yeah,when $'s tight its hard.i think we can all relate to that.
you can score the motorcraft plugs online for about 10$ each.just so you know,when your ready.
when's the last time you took the grounds off the block and cleaned them?
in 88,i think i read,there may be only one ground actually.anyway,it doesn't cost anything,and can really make a big difference in case ya wanna try it.
unbolt it,and take some sand paper,and make the block nice and shiny where it bolts.clean the threads and make the back side of the bolt where it compresses the cable end,to shine too.then grease it up real good.clean that lug there too of course.
do the same thing down at the positive connection at the starter as well.(be sure to unhook it from the batteries before unhooking from the starter to clean it,or sparks could fly lol.)
when they spin over fast,they start much quicker.
a good tip for ya,and best of all,its free maintenance too.
your starter will really thank you as well.
(of course,do the usual cleaning of the battery terminals too.)
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: Northren MN.
when you crank it (turn it over) can you count the revolutions?
yeah,when $'s tight its hard.i think we can all relate to that.
you can score the motorcraft plugs online for about 10$ each.just so you know,when your ready.
when's the last time you took the grounds off the block and cleaned them?
in 88,i think i read,there may be only one ground actually.anyway,it doesn't cost anything,and can really make a big difference in case ya wanna try it.
unbolt it,and take some sand paper,and make the block nice and shiny where it bolts.clean the threads and make the back side of the bolt where it compresses the cable end,to shine too.then grease it up real good.clean that lug there too of course.
do the same thing down at the positive connection at the starter as well.(be sure to unhook it from the batteries before unhooking from the starter to clean it,or sparks could fly lol.)
when they spin over fast,they start much quicker.
a good tip for ya,and best of all,its free maintenance too.
your starter will really thank you as well.
(of course,do the usual cleaning of the battery terminals too.)
yeah,when $'s tight its hard.i think we can all relate to that.
you can score the motorcraft plugs online for about 10$ each.just so you know,when your ready.
when's the last time you took the grounds off the block and cleaned them?
in 88,i think i read,there may be only one ground actually.anyway,it doesn't cost anything,and can really make a big difference in case ya wanna try it.
unbolt it,and take some sand paper,and make the block nice and shiny where it bolts.clean the threads and make the back side of the bolt where it compresses the cable end,to shine too.then grease it up real good.clean that lug there too of course.
do the same thing down at the positive connection at the starter as well.(be sure to unhook it from the batteries before unhooking from the starter to clean it,or sparks could fly lol.)
when they spin over fast,they start much quicker.
a good tip for ya,and best of all,its free maintenance too.
your starter will really thank you as well.
(of course,do the usual cleaning of the battery terminals too.)
I think tomarro I'm going to attempt the headlight mod. The dimmer is stuck on high beam, but it's still so dim that nobody flashes me. So it's off to town for me in the morning to get a new dimmer switch, and some relay's
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
1) locate blue wire with quick connector coming out of the controller and disappearing into the harness.
2) snip that wire off as close to the controller as possible.
3) add suitable ring terminal to the now-loose end of the wire, and bolt it on the relay stud that you pulled the white wire off.
This causes the WTS light to come on every time the glowplugs relay is energized, so it will be shining nice and bright every time you glow the plugs and for as long as you glow them. The mod can be performed to an all-stock system too, which results in the light blinking for a few seconds after the main glow cycle is done - this way you can monitor the afterglow cycle (solid light - main cycle, blinky light = afterglow) - and if your controller seems to be entering afterglow (blinky light) right from the moment you hit the ignition with a cold engine then you have a three or more plugs burned.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 233
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From: Northren MN.
And to remedy the situation you can do the following:
1) locate blue wire with quick connector coming out of the controller and disappearing into the harness.
2) snip that wire off as close to the controller as possible.
3) add suitable ring terminal to the now-loose end of the wire, and bolt it on the relay stud that you pulled the white wire off.
This causes the WTS light to come on every time the glowplugs relay is energized, so it will be shining nice and bright every time you glow the plugs and for as long as you glow them. The mod can be performed to an all-stock system too, which results in the light blinking for a few seconds after the main glow cycle is done - this way you can monitor the afterglow cycle (solid light - main cycle, blinky light = afterglow) - and if your controller seems to be entering afterglow (blinky light) right from the moment you hit the ignition with a cold engine then you have a three or more plugs burned.
1) locate blue wire with quick connector coming out of the controller and disappearing into the harness.
2) snip that wire off as close to the controller as possible.
3) add suitable ring terminal to the now-loose end of the wire, and bolt it on the relay stud that you pulled the white wire off.
This causes the WTS light to come on every time the glowplugs relay is energized, so it will be shining nice and bright every time you glow the plugs and for as long as you glow them. The mod can be performed to an all-stock system too, which results in the light blinking for a few seconds after the main glow cycle is done - this way you can monitor the afterglow cycle (solid light - main cycle, blinky light = afterglow) - and if your controller seems to be entering afterglow (blinky light) right from the moment you hit the ignition with a cold engine then you have a three or more plugs burned.
