i have a 92 f150 4.9l 5spd 2wd and lately it has been hard to get into first gear from a stop. i brought it to my mechanic and he changed the tranny fluid and found chunks of metal stuck to the magnetic drain plug. obviosly something is failing inside the tranny. i am either going to take out the tranny myself and bring it somewhere to have it repaired, or find a junkie tranny and put that in myself. my question is, how difficult is it to change the tranny on these trucks? i have done a few automatic swaps, but never a manual. if i get a junkie tranny, do i have to switch the clutch from the old tranny to the junkie tranny? (i currently have a brand new clutch). anything i should be aware of during the swap? does anybody reccomend rebuilding the current tranny over buying a junkie tranny? all help is appreciated. -thanks

 

2wd should be a breaze! you can keep your clutch that was just put in. If you have a buddy that works on trannys or can find someone to do it on the side it will probably only cost a couple undered plus parts to get yours rebuilt. I try and sway people away from getting a junk yard tranny if theirs isn't completely trashed. you never know what you will get. If you find yard that will give you 30 day warrenty or something like that i would get the spare tranny and have it serviced and then put it in... Also try using Criagslist.org there are usually 2-3 trannys floating around on there that will work. Or look for someone parting a truck out with a good tranny (usually cheaper than the junk yard). You probably have a mazda 5spd tranny which are common (i think... don't quote me b/c i run the 91 and older models). You might even want to check ebay for a rebuilt unit... sometimes they can be had for under $500...

Nothing to be aware of during a swap... Just unbolt and slide off. just remember where the few wires attach. 5spds are easier due to no shift linkage like autos. I would recommend getting a tranny jack or a tranny jack attachment. Especially, if you are doing this alone. My old C6 was a pain to get out without one! You can do it without one but i wish I would have bought the $75 harbor frieght one to save myself the pain and strain.

Also talk to your local parts store guys, they probably know someone who works on trannys on the side.

 

also if you didn't know a tranny from a 302 or 351w will work too... 7.3 diesals and 460's have a different bell housing pattern.

 

wow thanks for the info...i feel alot better about this now lol. is the clutch a seperate unit from the tranny? in other words, does the clutch come off with the tranny? i sound very inexperienced but its just that i dont have much practice with manual trannys.

 

yes the pressure plate, and clutch disk bolt to the rear fly wheel which is bolted to the engine to make things simple. make sure to keep your throw out bering if it was replaced with the clutch (which it should have been).

 

oh and don't quote me on the couple hundred on the rebuild it will all depend on what the seals kit and hard parts cost (ie if you have a couple bad gears could cost a chunk of change depending on which gears).

 

i have a few tranny shops that i am going to let drive my truck and give me an estimate. i have no idea what it will cost either, but most shops i talked to will just end up rebuilding the entire tranny anyway, regardless of what gears might be destroyed. the throw out bearing was replaced with the clutch so i will make sure i salvage that. also, i know i am thinking way too far ahead, but are there any short throw or high performance shifters that i could put in while i have the tranny out? the immature half of my mind is kicking in.

 

you'd be better off getting a different performance upgrade... The 4.9L is a low end torque machine that will pull a ton of weight... That being said it's not going to be a "go getter" off the line. I'd spend the money on a cold air intake, tranny cooler, new U-joints or other places that would better suit your money on the truck.

As for taking it to a shop... you'll save more money doing tranny work yourself or hiring side help than on any other part of that truck. Just FYI. Let us know if you need more help!

 

i am going to drop the tranny myself and then bring it to a shop, unless i can find a rebuilt one that is cheaper than what the shop wants for the rebuild cost. the place i wanna go to wants me to bring the truck in so they can drive it before i start tearing it apart. what u joints would you reccomend if i get new ones? any other upgrades i could do while this thing is apart? thanks alot for all the help so far.

 

well other than that I would recommend putting some good tranny fluid in the tranny whether you do it or the shop does... Make sure they use something good like a Motorcraft Full Synthetic Transmission Fluid. Better protection and longer life. As long as your under the truck I would recommend a rear diff fluid change as that rarely gets done (and is good preventative maintence). The 300 I-6 will last you as long as you want it (look below at my 83...) but you have to be sure to do the up keep on the truck. When something big like a tranny gets pulled you'll have some extra time... Use it to do some of the things you have been skipping or the PO skipped for a long time. A
radiator flush only cost a little time $3 prestone kit and fresh fluid. Also I have been recommending that people clean their injectors. You have to remove the plenum to get to them but well worth the time and effort as I saw a 2-3 mpg improvement the last time I did mine. It cost less than $50 to do it yourself and a couple hours work. All you really need is an air compressor to back flush them. If you want more details just do a forum search for RJM or fuel injectors.

 

also check your plugs rotor and distributor cap if you havent lately... basic maintence that some of us forget from time to time... I know I let my plugs, cap and rotor go to long before changing...

 

you may want to replace the real oil seal and pilot bearing while you're in there .. if you haven't already ..

 

good point pete... almost missed that one... I am guessing since his clutch and throw out were done that they would have done the pilot bering too... If it hasen't been done, I recommend getting the gear puller from the parts store when you get the pilot bering.

I know this is all a laundry list of stuff Octane... But you'll be glad to know that it's done!

 

this is alot of great info. i didnt think of most of these things. does the pilot bearing have to come off the old tranny and onto the new one if i do a swap? i still have to find an estimate for rebuilding the current tranny. plugs/cap/wires/rotor are all less than a year old. rear diff fluid change is another good idea. i have to print out this thread lol. thanks again! keep the posts comin if you think of anything else.

 

hey sorry to bring back the post again, but i brought the truck to a transmission shop today and let the main mechanic drive it. he told me that the transmission is fine, but that i need a new pedal assembly! he told me that the clutch is taking a few seconds to engage because of the worn pedal assembly, and possibly the master cylinder, which is why it can be hard to get into gear. i figured i needed a new tranny because thats what my other mechanic told me. well even tho the assembly could end up costing a few hundred bucks, im glad that i dont need a new tranny. thanks for all the help anyway! i got alot of great info in case i need to do a different tranny in the future or if one of my freinds needs a hand.