Yeah....that's pretty bad. Probably have too much caster. Just for giggles.....put an angle finder on that spring pad. Without the extra weight of the body, that pad just be nearly level....maybe even leaning forward slightly. If it's not, then you need to change your C-bushings. To get an accurate measurment, put the angle finder on the machined surface where the steering arm would bolt to the knuckle. Without the body, there should be no more than 2 degrees at the knuckle. Caster increases as the suspension compresses.

Also, I noticed some sort of spacer between the radius arm brackets and the transmission crossmember. Did you space the radius arm brackets down? Or raise the transmission crossmember up? And the radius arm brackets almost look like drop brackets..... (your frame is so glossy I can't tell where the bracket ends and the frame begins).

 

well that's what I thought when I got the parts off the donor truck, that they looked like they dropped more than what stock would be. The spacers are because I used the 79 f150 donor truck as a referance as to where all my brackets mounted and where the transmission crossmember mounted. I bolted the tranny crossmember to the underside of the top of the frame like the f150 was. Then, because my frame is like 3 or 4 inches taller (from top to bottom) than the f150, my radius arm brackets wouldn't bolt on to the tranny crossmember like they are supposed to, plus my frame was curved where they needed to mount so I had to flatten the frame out so they had a flat surface to mount to, and I had to put a 7/8 spacer between the radius arm bracket and crossmember. O.k I put the angle finder on; on the machined surface where the steering arm would go I have between 1.5 and 2 degrees. When I put it on the old leaf perch I am tipping toward the rear of the truck about 2 degrees. Hope this helps and I appreciate your help

 

By the way the angles on my 77 high boy are way off too. I just wanted you to see what a low pinion D44 looks like. I have a 78 high-pinion D60 that will be going under the high boy soon.

 

would I be able to lower the transfer case mount slightly to gain what I need? Just a thought. When I mocked everything up I set motor and tranny in and put a level on the top of the bell housing to set my transfer case mount. Maybe I've got it a little too high. Or would getting stock c bushings be the answer?

 

Ok, I "THINK" the machined surface on the knuckles are angled slightly. Meaning.....with proper caster, the flat spot on the knuckle should be level. So, without the weight of the body, you should probably be angled about 2 degrees forwards. So, if you have 7 degree bushings, you probably need to subtract 4 degrees. What I would do is get some 2 degree bushings, and then some offset ball joint sleeves. This should get you close enough to make the driveshaft work. Then, after you get everything assembled, and find out exactly how the truck will sit........you can get a more accurate measurement. The pinion angle may not be pretty, but it should be workable. I just did some C-bushings on an Early Bronco with 4 inch lift. The EB has a low pinion and short driveshaft too. The pinion angle wasn't nearly as bad as yours.

Are you saying you set your transmission so that it's level? It should be angling downward several degrees. Just looking at it, the transfercase looks high. The front drop should be hanging below the frame rails by a couple inches.

 

No, what I meant was from side to side (driver to passenger) I leveled the top of the bellhousing where the tranny bolts to the engine, thinking that that would level the engine. I know it looks a bit different because the frame rails on a 150 are alot shorter. My frame is the original frame for my f350 scs and the frame rails are alot taller, I would say at least 3 inches. The tranny does angle down from the engine to transfer case. I could lower it more, I would just need to unbolt the crossmember from the top frame rail and lower it down. As long as the driveshaft turns without binding I'm happy. I probably won't use the 4x4 much at all. I was "restoring" the truck and thought that having a 4wd SCS would be sweet, especially if I could do it so it looked stock for the most part. I planned on setting the cab on it this next weekend so I guess that will be the only way to tell if the tranny's up to high. I can't imagine it would be though, I mounted the crossmember to the underside of the top frame rail just like a 4wd, and if cab mounts are all placed the same then there should be no problems. I have to agree with you though, with the married case, low pinion axle, 7 degree bushings, and the radius arm brackets being lower due to the frame rail hieght, I probably have too much caster. I'll order me a set of 2 degree bushings tomorow and give it a shot.

 

Changing C-bushings suck.....but it's pretty much your only option. A 5 degree change at the bushings will get you close to 10 degrees at the driveshaft.....so that should make it workable.

 

The HP44 would of saved you a lot of headache and helped out a great deal with your driveshaft angle, the 77.5-79 F250's all have the 8 lug HP44 you needed.

 

You could even put your 8 lug knuckles on an F-150 HP44. .......however the tubes are thinner.

 

Coulda, woulda, shoulda. This is the problem I have so I have to deal with it. I'm this deep into this project, maybe I should look for a hp 44 and swap them out. Would all the parts be the same? I put all new ball joints, bearings, seals, rotors, hubs, and u joints in the LP 44. If I got a HP could I just swap all the crap over to it? Just thinking out loud

 

Yep, the only difference is the ring and pinion, and the inner axle shafts are different lengths. Your 8 lug knuckles will bolt onto the 5 lug housing. Just un-bolt the ball joints, and swap. It doesn't even have to be a disk brake axle. Find an old drum brake axle that no one wants. As long as it's an open knuckle, it will work.

 

Maybe that's the best way to go then. I'm not putting all this time and money into this thing to have a front end that looks like it was cobbled. As long as I can swap all my new parts over to a HP 44 I would almost think that would be the way to go. Problem is finding one with the same gear ratio. It crossed my mind to try and find a dana 60 but I'm not going to off road it so that doesn't seem like a wise investment. Does a dana 44 HP have to be from a 78 or 79 ford? Or can it be from an early 80's ford? Finding these old fords in wisconsin is getting pretty hard.

 

The solid axle was ditched after 79. So an 80's truck will be a no-go. All F-150 Dana 44's are high-pinion. Your knuckles will work on any axle from 71-79. 71 and 72 use smaller 260x u-joints. You will have to get new inner shafts if you wanna use the bigger joints. 73+ use the 297x style(same as your current axle). The 73-77 axles are the most desirable. They have tubes smaller than a F-250, but they are thick wall. I'm not sure what you modeled your trac bar after, but the mount varies between these years. However, it's nothing that can't be fixed with a welder. 78-79 axles are less desirable. They have thin wall tubing. And they have one piece end forgings with c-tabs that cannot be removed.....but this isn't really a problem for you, since you will be keeping them.

You should be able to find a core axle fairly easy. Even if you can't find one with the gear ratio you need. Keep in mind you only need the bare center section and inner axle shafts. You can use your differential. And ring and pinions are pretty cheap if you install them yourself.

 

Hey I really appreciate all your help. It's guys like you that make this website great. You have alot of knowledge and aren't afraid to take the time to help someone out. I really think that a different axle is the way I'm going to go. I just want to do this right.

 

Hey, it's no problem at all. Yeah, I agree.....a high-pinion swap would be the way to go. I know Bronco Graveyard sells complete used axles......maybe they have some bare centersections for a reasonable price. Lemme know if ya need anything else.