bleeding breaks
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bleeding breaks
i have replaced everything and now when my truck is off my pedal can be pumped with no pedal fade anymore 
but as soon as i start my truck it is very squishy pedal i have bled the front and rears a few times now and still no noticeable change the only things i could think of where either the rear pads need to be adjusted out some more or there is air trapped at the break reservoir/booster area i have heard that i may be screwed if that is the case. i have tried the backing up and breaking thing to try and get the pads seated but again no change... any ideas ? thanx again guys
but as soon as i start my truck it is very squishy pedal i have bled the front and rears a few times now and still no noticeable change the only things i could think of where either the rear pads need to be adjusted out some more or there is air trapped at the break reservoir/booster area i have heard that i may be screwed if that is the case. i have tried the backing up and breaking thing to try and get the pads seated but again no change... any ideas ? thanx again guys
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From: Dairy, OR
Had to do this on my 94 ranger last year after a brake job. Thing drove me nuts until I found out about bleeding the ABS.
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so i have done everything to going and taking the drums off and adjusting the breaks by hand so i know that they are touching bled from rear to front doing the abs as well could it just be air trapped in the master cylinder ? or when they go bad is this what they do? i can still stop the truck but i just have a real squishy pedal when the truck is off i have no brake fade but as soon as the truck is started the pedal will sink just about to the floor????i am going crazy!
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Eaton, CO
Lift the rear of the truck in the air. Start turning the rear drum adjuster screw from the inside of the drum plate. There's a rubber grommet that you take out to access the adjuster start. Have someone in the cab to pump the brakes a couple of times after you adjust the star. Then make sure they're not depressing the brake pedal and turn the wheel by hand. Keep adjusting until you get resistance when turning the wheel by hand. Repeat on the other rear wheel. Go drive the truck and the rear shoes will wear in nicely.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
sounds like you need to replace the master cylinder,red.
do you know if your vacuum pump is working?
did you have the system completely emptied replacing brake lines or something?
if so, you might just need to bench bleed the MS.do you know how to do this?
do you know if your vacuum pump is working?
did you have the system completely emptied replacing brake lines or something?
if so, you might just need to bench bleed the MS.do you know how to do this?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Eaton, CO
He said he replaced everything, so I assumed that he's replaced the master cylinder. If he didn't bench bleed the master cylinder, that could lead to a soft pedal because there's still air in it.
If your shoes aren't adjusted properly, you will have excessive pedal travel. I know this because I replaced all of my brakes and didn't adjust the rears properly and had excessive travel. Dial the rear brakes in and try again.
I've been told by several people that if the booster is blown, you'll have a hard brake pedal.
If your shoes aren't adjusted properly, you will have excessive pedal travel. I know this because I replaced all of my brakes and didn't adjust the rears properly and had excessive travel. Dial the rear brakes in and try again.
I've been told by several people that if the booster is blown, you'll have a hard brake pedal.
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yes i had the system just about empty because of a broken brake line and no i do not know how to bench bleed the M/S ... i would assume that my vacuum is working if the breaks are pushing as easy as they do with the truck on
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ya i did full adjust the rear pads almost the same way you said they are set now but i did not put a new M/C on just every break component after that.. but it did have a broken line so it could have been mostly empty..
Cargo Master
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From: Eaton, CO
Hmmmmm... I've never run a master cylinder dry. Remove the master cylinder from the booster and see if it's wet behind there. If it is, you'll need a new master cylinder and possibly a new booster. You might just want to get yourself a new master cylinder, bench bleed it and install it, then bleed your brakes again. If your booster is wet, the brake fluid can ruin it. That's what happened to my Jeep. First I did the master cylinder and then down the road the booster. I never got the hard pedal feel with my blown booster.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
here ya go red:
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you can do this while its in the truck like shown,you just press the brake pedal of course.it may take pumping the pedal quite a few times.
that's why you try to keep the MS full of brake fluid,or at least some in.but it's easy to do if you let it run dry.can take a while sometimes tho.so get that leg ready for a workout lol.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...hbleeding.html
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you can do this while its in the truck like shown,you just press the brake pedal of course.it may take pumping the pedal quite a few times.
that's why you try to keep the MS full of brake fluid,or at least some in.but it's easy to do if you let it run dry.can take a while sometimes tho.so get that leg ready for a workout lol.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...hbleeding.html
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