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Reviving my '85 351W

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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 08:28 PM
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Reviving my '85 351W

I've got a carbed 351 that's been sitting for a couple years. Am I better off rebuilding the gunked carb that's on it, or getting myself an aftermarket unit? Any tips in either direction would be appreciated.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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What carb is on it now? For relatively stock engines I've always had a lot more luck getting the factory carb rebuilt than replacing it.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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It's whatever carb Ford was putting in F250's with the 351W in 1985. I grew up in the EFI age, we retired this, our last carbed truck, before I ever really got into working on vehicles.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 08:48 PM
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Should be a Holley/ motorcraft 4180 4bbl..............good carb, rebuild it.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Should I just assume everything replaceable needs replaced in it after a couple years of sitting, and strip the whole thing down? I figure the float will be considerably gunked.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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10-4, just get a complete rebuild kit and one of those cans of carb dip from the auto parts store.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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Any suggestions on where to buy a kit? I've only ever bought carb kits for small engines, and I can get them through the local chainsaw place, but probably not for this beast.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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I'm partial to NAPA, but bring along the carb (or ID tag) to any decent auto parts store and they should be able to get you squared away.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BaronVonAutomatc
I'm partial to NAPA, but bring along the carb (or ID tag) to any decent auto parts store and they should be able to get you squared away.
Good advise!......the tag will make certain you get the right kit, be prepared for sticker shock though, the last time I rebuilt a holley the kit cost $85.00!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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You could always try putting it on the engine and see if it's okay.

I generally find that you need to replace the bowl gaskets (if you take the carb apart) and often the power valve. The needle and seat are usually fine. The accelerator pump diaphragm tends to perish with modern gasoline, but can be bought separately. I rub antisieze compound onto the side of the bowl gaskets I don't want to stick, since you often end up taking the thing apart repeatedly if there are problems. Once everything is working well you can put on the new self gluing gaskets.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Beanscoot
You could always try putting it on the engine and see if it's okay.
It's the fact that it's been on the engine, sitting full of old gas for a couple years that bugs me. Which is also why I'm inclined to do a total rebuild.
 
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