I am having a hard time find reliable info on this. I have a 2000 f250 v-10 bought used with 1 key. I am having trouble getting the ignition to turn and was hoping to get a key cut from code. This is where things get interesting.

Ford dealer says they only started saving codes after 2001.

Local locksmith says they keep the key codes for 8-10 years then just delete them.

The internet has some support for the locksmith's theory. Nothing I found on Ford's version.

Does anyone know how this key code storing business works? Is there any way to retrieve my key code? (no chip/alarm on key just a piece of metal)

 

I'd love to hear what people think about this one.

 

Me too!

This is quickly turning into a mystery. Here is some of the random internet info I have found.
Post # 6
Lost ignition key - dealer wants $500 for a fix~! - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

Lost keys? - Yahoo! Answers
If you loose the keys and f-150 is 1999 or newer you are looking at key to be made to open the door and unlock the steering wheel (taking the vin number and proof of ownership is only way.. pop a lock/AAA will unlock it for about $50 and make a key to turn over the ignition but not to start for about $150).. then a tow job to the Ford dealer and a program of the key (recommend 2 however)... last one I did like that was about $100 .... For $130 I can make it where the other keys won't start the truck (the extra cost is for an extra key)

If before 1999, the pop a lock/AAA way is about the only way (as Ford only keeps key codes on file for 10 years)

This 10 year thing keeps coming up. I am going to give the horses mouth approach a try. I am going to e-mail ford about this. Will post the results.

Edit - My truck is a 2000. That means that if they codes were deleted after 10 years they were deleted about 5 weeks before I tried to get them

 

Well, your 2000 Superduty doesn't have PATS, so you don't have to worry about the electronic side of things.

I think you should be able to pop the ignition cylinder (it's very easy), bring it to a locksmith and get a key made to order. Or at least, figure out why that cylinder is giving you trouble. It works in the doors OK?

This is one of the reasons I always keep the original key tag from when I buy a vehicle new.

To remove the ignition cylinder, put the key in, turn it to almost the ON position, put a small phillip's head screwdriver into the hole in the plastic cover under the cylinder, push up, and VOILA, the cylinder comes out. Look around on here for more information on how to get it out. Not sure about how far you have to turn it.

 

I had the same problem.

I was able to have a local locksmith recut a key to "factory" spec using my old key and a test fit/recut procedure. He took the old key, made some educated guesses as to where it was worn, cut a new one then tested it in the ignition and made cuts as necessary until it worked like butter.

I have had this done twice...one locksmith charged me a flat $20 fee and the other charged me $5 after he got me back in to my truck after I locked myself out at home depot. The one that charged me $20 gave me a card with the key code on the back so I wouldn't have to ever worry about it again.

 

Remove a door lock cylinder, take it to a local locksmith. They will make a key for about $15.

 

I believe the door lock cylinder is different from the ignition key cylinder. Everyone has heard of someone who could open his friends car but could not start it or vise versa. I believe the top part of the key works the ignition and the bottom part works the door.

Additionally I have heard some people cut a car key for one car and have the other side cut for another car. As long as they are the same make. This only works without the PATS.

 

The cylinder has eight pins. Not all eight are for the ignition, nor all all for the doors.

Find out who opens cars for the Auto Club in your area. In addition to their mobile units, they should also have a shop. Those are the guys you want to deal with.

Look up to the underside of your ignition cylinder from the floor. See the three holes? We are concerned with only the middle of the three.

Disconnect both NEGATIVE terminals on your batteries. There is no need to disconnect the POSITIVE terminals. This is only because your truck is going to be ON for a while.

Turn the ignition to the "RUN" position.

With a stiff piece of coat hanger wire about six inches long, feel around inside that middle hole until you depress a small pin in the mechanism. With the pin depressed, pull the ignition cylinder and key straight out.

Take the whole thing to that locksmith and describe your problem. Don't let them just sell you another cylinder, as then you will need two keys for the truck (the other for the doors). With the cylinder in hand, they should be able to determine the proper cuts for the ignition part of your key, and cut you a key.

Ideally, you would also take them both door cylinders to also service, but it's not absolutely necessary.

When you get home, the cylinder just goes straight in (still in the ON position) and snaps behind the pin again.

Oh, heck, just look at this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzgng...eature=related

Pop

 

I got the response from Ford. According to them, Ford does delete key codes after 10 years. Though to find this out they contacted the same dealer I already asked so this may not be a nationwide thing but something individual dealers do.

The locksmith I talked to said he could try to guess the factory codes from the key. He didn't mention needing the cylinder though. The key is getting dropped off today, we will see what he can do with it.

 

You can replace the entire lock cylinder and get two new keys for less than $40.
AutoZone.com | | Lock - Ignition (Cylinder & Keys) | IGN LOCK CYLINDER W/KEY

 

That is shockingly cheap compared to some of the quotes I have been given (in the neighborhood of 5x that amount). If this key thing does not work out I will definitely look into that.

Ford parts guy also has a cylinder for about $60 I would just have to get the locksmith to key it.

 

---no dealers dont have a say--thats all Ford, i can get key codes all day long-----so long as they are 10 or newer--ya probably called customer assistance-and they in turn called the dealer to verify--but its definitely a Ford thing!!

 

Thanks for clarifying that. And that is exactly what happened. The real question is why delete them at all?

 

--Ford only keeps warranty history for 10 years--prolly a data base thing i reckon--now if ya have a recall---that will always be on oasis-until it is satisfied-done-salvaged etc.

 

Update: I though I was confused before but now this is getting out of hand.

I took the truck to the mechanic last week for an oil change. He asks about the key thing. I tell him what Ford told me. He calls his buddy over at Ford.

Mechanic: "Can you cut a key for a 2000 f250?"
Buddy: Not if it is after 2001.
Mechanic: What if I have the VIN?
Buddy: Oh well in that case here you go, here is the key code.

Keep in mind 2 months before I stood in that dealership registration and ID in hand. I gave them the VIN and they entered it and said no can do. Now 2 months later suddenly they do have the code.

I won't argue it is just a strange experience. If any of you are wondering why I go to the mechanic for oil changes, this is why.

The key works MUCH better than the old one and after making copies will cost be all of 10 bucks.