Scary Steering Glitch
<hr style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);" size="1"> <!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> <!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_start --> <!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_start --> After about a 50 mile drive on the interstate today, I go to turn off the exit ramp and the steering wheel wouldn't turn. After a little panic and a little more force it broke free and everything was fine. Up until then I had been changing lanes with no problems, but the exit required a greater turn of the wheel. Here's the really strange part. It happened one other time about 6 weeks ago. It was exactly the same trip on the interstate, and the same exit. The wheel did the same thing. Both times I had my snow plow on and it was snowing lightly. I find it hard to believe that this is just coincidence. Any body have any ideas before I take it to the dealer? By the way, I changed the power steering fluid about 8 months ago, and the level is still fine. Thanks, John
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'06 F350,4x4 PSD reg. cab,XLT,long bed,man.6 speed transmision, man. transfer case,8' western plow. Dieselsite coolant filter, fumoto valve.
"Anybody can get the easy stuff!" Lester Frye 1970
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With a heavy plow in the front and a relatively light rear end, you could be sliding a bit and not know it. Your 8' plow probably requires 600# of weight to be added behind the rear axle. I was plowing snow today with a similar truck and was too lazy to add the ballast (at first). Turning was definitely not normal without that extra weight in the back.
If the steering wheel seemed to bind or stick, I'd look at ball joints. or tie rod ends.
Lou Braun
I had one u-joint cap seize and even though I wasn't in 4x4, it felt like someone was yanking on the wheel (into oncoming traffic). Pulled into a nearby parking lot, didn't see anything wrong, tried real hard and broke it loose. Drove REAL SLOW home and then set about to find out what was wrong.
Ended up replacing pretty much everything up front except for the vacuum-hubs. There are some excellent step-by-step write-ups on this forum including pictures for which I could have not done the work myself without. Cost me some money in parts but saved a ton over dealer.
While you're taking apart everything to replace the u-joints, should definitely replace ball-joints if you haven't done so recently. Mine were also shot. Tie rods were also replaced and the steering drag link bolt at the pitman arm was hand-loose - not a good scene.












