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I just finished bolting everything back together on my 390 after installing a comp cams kit, new lifters, springs, and cam. i'm very confused about what to be looking for as far as valve lash? right now, since the lifters are brand new and havent been soaked in or pumped up with oil yet, i can use my hand to compress the lifter and i swear there is 1/16" between the rocker tip and the valve. there never has been any head work either, any input??
I don't know much about hyd lifters, but it seems to me that you should have a lot more than 1/16" with the lifter collapsed, unless the lifter is riding on the cam lobe.
Were those after-market lifters designed to work with stock pushrods?
I think the lifters are suposed to pump up to virtually eliminate lash automatically. Seems to me that when everything is set right, and before oil is pumped through the lifters, the valvetrain is adjusted for about 1/2 lifter travel, or otherwords in the middle of it. This can be easily accomplished with adj rockers, but typically in these engines by using different length pushrods. Other type engines use stud mounted rockers with an adj nut on top of each stud.
anyone? fire up is coming soon and i cant find solid info, thanks!!!
You could prelube the engine by using an old distributor with no cam gear, rig up a means to fit a good strong drill to the top of the shaft and spin the pump to get oil pressure throughout the engine. This should pressurize your lifters and you will see oil coming from the rocker shafts under the rockers. Then reset your distribtor and set the timing. Start your engine, be happy.
You are using the hydraulic/non-adjustable rockers right?
yes, hydraulic lifters straight out of the comp kit and stock rockers. i've got plenty of assy. lube on every moving point i could get it to and the oil filter prefilled, i dont think i have an old distributor, would a small socket work for priming? thanks
If the socket has a thin enough wall, it will work. If I was to use a socket, I'd braze the socket to an extension so I didn't accidently lose the socket inside the engine. You need an electric drill and run it in reverse (CCW looking down at the engine).
If the socket has a thin enough wall, it will work. If I was to use a socket, I'd braze the socket to an extension so I didn't accidently lose the socket inside the engine. You need an electric drill and run it in reverse (CCW looking down at the engine).
I had a 1/4" drive socket brazed to a 12' extension and used a speed wrench to drive it by hand. Assembly lube is good but to get the lifters oiled up you need to get oil pressure throughout the engine. This will eliminate the clatter of them not having oil at start up.
Oh..Moto-Mel's post made me think.....you might not need a thin-wall socket like I previously mentioned. I was thinking of my oil pump shaft which is 5/16" Stock is 1/4".
Once the pump catches oil, you can really feel the drill slow down.
Oh..Moto-Mel's post made me think.....you might not need a thin-wall socket like I previously mentioned. I was thinking of my oil pump shaft which is 5/16" Stock is 1/4".
Once the pump catches oil, you can really feel the drill slow down.
I was talking about 1/4" drive socket 'cause frankly I don't remember if the pump driveshaft is 1/4" or 5/16" hex.
It is 1/4" at the dist...and I goofed again. It's the pump end on mine that is 5/16. Stock is 1/4" the full shaft. So as long as the socket fits, it should work fine.