Initial timing help with 351W
Here's my setup:
Stock block with E7 heads. All smog stuff was already stripped off when I bought the truck (F-150) last summer. Previous owner replaced the distributor with a P.O.S. AutoZone unit, the cap wobbles no matter how many caps I've tried with it. EGR pipes exiting out from the back of the heads were cut short and crimped over. Air pump removed. Accessory vacuum system was in shambles. Stock intake with Holley 600CFM carb.
Engine seems to be in good shape, even with the above problems. Uses NO oil, coolant looks great, no leaks anywhere.
So here's what I wanted to do. Finish up the removal of the now nonfunctional smog system, plug the back of the heads where the EGR stuff attach, replace the dist with a ProComp 7000 series dist /w vacuum advance and it's matching "eCoil", and change out the intake with a Performer manifold.
I do most of my driving in the low RPM ranges. All I want is low-end torque. I hardly ever get in the highway, and mostly limit my 55MPH driving to county roads. I'm using regular gas.
I've read so many opinions on initial timing, I getting confused. Anywhere from 6-15 degrees BTDC. I've also read to open up the spark plug gap to .050-.055
So, where should I start with initial timing? What do I look for to fine tune it from there? What about the plug gap? Any other ideas?
Thanks for any suggestions and/or info!!
Kevin
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I'll start at 10 degrees, but what do I look for to fine tune it from there? And again, I've read SOOO many opinions on the plug gap....and they usually gravitate toward increasing the gap significantly. Why is that?
Oh, now that my coil is outputting significantly more spark, should I change the plug heat range or anything like that? I'm using 25's right now.
Just use plain old Motorcraft spark plugs too. Fancy plugs are just a crutch to help disguise the effect of a poorly operating ignition system.
Another trick with timing is to keep advancing it until the engine tries to push back (i.e. cranks slow) when you activate the starter. Then back it down 2 degrees and you should be spot on.
Heat range has nothing to do with spark voltage, use the recommended plugs.
A vacuum gauge is a great diagnostic tool for shade tree tuning, too.
Don't forget to slather the dizzy gear with assembly lube.








