Hi, everybody
Here are the details...
1965 F250 / 352 2bbl / 4spd (T18?) / 4x2 / 4.10 rear /
F2581DMRA24779362
124K original miles (PO swears true, title matches)
There's some work I know needs to be done:
has a "stuck" lifter, will replace all
needs new valve gaskets & intake gasket
seems to want more or better spark
needs headers installed, but pipes & muffs are great
needs sand/paint
interior looks like the truck threw up on itself...
The PO replaced:
Power steering pump - 2005
King pins installed at Triangle Frontend and Frame - 2005
Holley 2bbl carb (model #0-7448) - 2005
Brakes rebuilt - 2006
Dual exhaust with quality mufflers not tin cans 2007
Radiator from LMC - 2008
Has dual fuel tanks... are these original?
What don't I know / what can you tell me? Thanks, and glad to be here!"
I'll work on getting larger photos...
I would recommend you first pull the valve cover and check the upper valve train before attempting to change the lifters. It may be something simpler, and often is. That intake weighs close to 100 pounds and is a bear to get back on right, because they are prone to leaking from the rear where they mate to the block and heads.
There is an easy way with modern adhesives to prevent it, but if it isn't leaking right now, I would avoid pulling the intake until you have confirmed it necessary.
You are probably also thinking of all the upgrades you might like to do - and since it is a '65, you have a lot of great options using a donor truck up to 1979!
However, I would highly recommend you drive it for a least a few months, read up on what can be done and what doesn't really need to be done to these trucks before spending any money. Headers for example - if you want to make it a hot rod, you'll want them, but the 352 doesn't lend itself well to meeting expectations you might have for installing headers.
Driving it and reading up on your new truck will go a LONG ways to helping you get the best and most out of your truck. I have had mine now for almost 30 years, and have done many of the common modifications on it. All of us here are eager to help you out. Most of us are not really interested to help you spend money; instead, you will find a lot of valuable advice.
Also, post the Warranty Tag information - not just the VIN. We can decode that to discover what your truck originally came with.
Again WELCOME! and dive on in - the water's fine!
the dual tanks are not factory, but they could have been added by the dealer.
If it was my truck, i would stay away from headers... if you ever need to change the starter you will cus the whole time you remove the right side to get it out, which means jacking up the engine.
Where can I find the Warranty Tag?
The headers are new and came with the truck when I bought it, a rear anti-sway bar also came with it. The exhast manifolds are looking rough, and have a minor leak(s) here and there... thought that I would use what I had rather than buy new parts. Great(!!) advice on the starter, which I suppose I will replace prior to putting the headers on... it (the starter) seems to work fine, but buying a reman-ed starter and installing it is worth the peace of mind.
The intake manifold has a leak in the front for sure, haven't checked the back yet... I figured that I would kill two birds by pulling it and changing the gasket, meanwhile having easier access to the lifters (which are definitely an issue).
I'm not trying to "hot-roddify" the beast, nor keep it strictly stock. I do favor the look of yester-year, but have no issues with doing things like, say, using a bench seat out of a C-10 and drilling to fit.
Keep it coming!
you will enjoy your new ride, The only way I would put headers on the 352 is if the exhaust manifolds needed replacing. The knowledge of fixing these trucks is here.
all the people here are just awesome.
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Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
F25 = f250 2wd
81 - Conventional cab
D - Light Beige Crush Vinyl & Medium Beige Ladder Pattern Woven Plastic
M - Wimbeldon White/ R (The one color code I don't have!)
A - Ford Type 3.03 All Syncromesh 3 Speed Manual Transmission
24 - 4.10 rear end gears, non Traction Lock, Dana 60
if the tranny code is for the 3 speed, I guess that somewhere along the line someone swapped the tranny...
I did my coding with this table... is it not accurate?
http://home.earthlink.net/~threynold...specs6166.html



