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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

how to test compression?

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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 10:38 AM
  #1  
300/6 Freak's Avatar
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how to test compression?

how to check compression? I think the rings in my 300 are SHOT lots of blow by from the breather and the dipstick hole.


1. what would cause this?

2. how to tell if I need
A. Rings
B. sleaved cylinders
c. just a new head/valve job
2. Thinking about just buying a remanufactured motor...heck one company offers a 7/70 warranty on long block for 1350.00
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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There are compression testing tools that screw into the spark plug holes that will give you readings for each individual cylinders. Generally, if you're getting enough pressure into the crankcase to blow oil out of the dispstick tube its likely your rings. I onwed a 300 that did just that, and when during a rebuild I pulled the the pistons, the rings literally fell off.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 11:46 AM
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What he says.
Remove all spark plugs, fit pressure gauge into first plug hole and spin engine over on the starter until the gauge no longer climbs. Make a note of cylinder number and the pressure reading. Repeat for all cylinders.
You may be able to hire a gauge.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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well if thats the problem would you guys jsut replace the rings or should I jsut buy a new motor and bolt it up.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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my truck is doing the same thing.....300 l6. Only it's not blowing any out the dipstick tube. or the tailpipe.....

Let me know if you find out for sure what it is.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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Also make sure you have the carb or throttle body wide open for the test to be accurate.

It's also better to test the motor when its warmed up too.

If you have a low cylinder, squirt some oil in the cylinder and re-test.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TA Dave
Also make sure you have the carb or throttle body wide open for the test to be accurate.

It's also better to test the motor when its warmed up too.

If you have a low cylinder, squirt some oil in the cylinder and re-test.
If it is rings, when you put some oil into the cylinder it should bump the compression up a little.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 07:38 AM
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yup read that in my haynes manual. you guys rock. still thinking about a new motor though as i just know what i got then.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Rebuilding the head has put added pressure on the rings. Replaceing the rings at this point would put added pressure on the bearings. And so on.

My 302 is blowing too. I'm saving up for a thorough rebuild.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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If you just replace rings in worn piston grooves they will work up and down in the larger than optimum gap and break again very quickly. I vote for complete rebuild.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 11:00 AM
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oh well I jsut ordered a reman Gopher brand 4.9L long blovk the other day. should be here in about a week :-)
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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Good Call

300/6 Freak

You made a good call going re-man long block (as long as it comes from a reputable builder and with some sort of warranty). Especially if time is a factor for you.

Deciding to rebuild yours really all depends on whether you have connections to a good machine shop and can trust your machinist to do justice. You need to go in with some knowledge about builds and the condition of your engine. Know what to ask for and also know when you are getting skinned unnecessarily (Doing unnecessary work or not getting the work you paid for). Some shops will take advantage, if you know what I mean.

The forum had some real good points about only doing rings also. I bet those thoughts played into your decision.

Tom
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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i never just planed to band-aid my problem and to me just replacing the rings would be just that.
 
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