High pitched squeel
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
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Here ya go...
Method one...
Replacing the Cam Sync
Method two...
Replacing the Cam Sync part 2
If you have ever replaced a distributor, the method is very similar.
One last word of advice...don't use any other part but a OEM Motorcraft...the others have had early failure rates. O'Reillys is where I got mine...it was cheaper than the "stealership".
Method one...
Replacing the Cam Sync
Method two...
Replacing the Cam Sync part 2
If you have ever replaced a distributor, the method is very similar.
One last word of advice...don't use any other part but a OEM Motorcraft...the others have had early failure rates. O'Reillys is where I got mine...it was cheaper than the "stealership".
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Alright. I did the swap today, and it only took like 10 minutes!
I did it the same way as dos. It runs fine now, but how would you know if it was off a little bit? Check engine light, or would it even run? How would you know?
I did it the same way as dos. It runs fine now, but how would you know if it was off a little bit? Check engine light, or would it even run? How would you know?
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Joined: Jul 2008
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I replaced my cam syncro today and did it like a distributor replacement and engine ran fine when I was finished. However, I now have a 'hard shift' with the automatic every time that wasn't there before. I checked all vac. hoses to see if any were off or any wiring wasn't plugged in or not completely plugged in. Everything looks like it is supposed to - any suggestions??
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Well here is an update from today. I decided to take another look at everything while I was more alert / fresh at the start of the day. I double checked all connections and hose routing / connections - I don't know if it had anything to do with it, but the electrical connector at the air box end of the intake tube slid a little farther on and 'clicked'. When I started up the truck and drove it the automatic trans. shifted flawlessly.
So, I don't know if the connector partially unplugged was the problem or if the computer had relearned what it needed to overnight
- yes, I did unhook the battery to change out the syncronizer.Anyway, thanks for the suggestion!
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Ok, so my original problem in this thread is back with a vengence. I assumbed it was the brakes again so I looked, and it is not the brakes for sure. It seems to be coming from the CV joint area... so my question is.. Do the CV joints make this noise? It is 100% coming from this area of the passenger side front tire... I am stumped!
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My noise sounds about like yours. I did a reply on the thread titled "front diff exploded view" or something like that. Just bought this pickup a few days ago and has 87K miles. Changed DS front bearing and didn't help. I am suspecting the bearings in the housing. Oil level was considerably low. I could feel some play when I moved the inner CV on the PS. Going to top off the diff oil when I get off work and see what happens then.
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My noise sounds about like yours. I did a reply on the thread titled "front diff exploded view" or something like that. Just bought this pickup a few days ago and has 87K miles. Changed DS front bearing and didn't help. I am suspecting the bearings in the housing. Oil level was considerably low. I could feel some play when I moved the inner CV on the PS. Going to top off the diff oil when I get off work and see what happens then.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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Well, after refilling the front diff housing with 90w oil and driving a few miles, I think I found the rattle/squeal problem. The bad bearing on the PS of the diff housing was causing the low pitch rattle at highway speed and was doing the squeaking at low speed. The seal is obviously hosed also. It still made noise for about 10 miles but then suddenly stopped when the oil finally reached it. Making a bit of a mess now. Going to start checking parts houses for the parts. Anyone know a good online place for the bearing/seals?