When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Remove the black wire (ground). You can leave this hanging in the valley as it is only a ground wire or you can trace it back to its origin and remove it completely.
Remove the red wire (hot) from the air intake heater. Follow the red wire back to where it terminates at an electric solenoid. You'll need to remove this end of the red wire as well.
There is a blue wire attached to the same terminal post on the solenoid. Leave this blue wire attached. If you do not leave the blue wire attached, a diagnostic scanner cannot do a full contribution test on your vehicle. Do not ignore this.
After you remove the wires, unscrew the heater and remove it. The new plug fits easily in its place. Only snug the Air Intake Heater Plug as it seals with a rubber washer. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
Keep any wires so that you can reverse the installation if you ever want to.
I removed the wires at both ends. I replaced the hot wire from the relay with a wire that has the 470 ohm resistor spliced inline. Use ring terminals to connect the ends of the wire to the relay and a good ground. I used a bolt on the firewall (next to the trans dipstick tube for you 'auto' guys). A braided wire ground from the engine grounds the cab in this area.This will prevent any codes when the PCM does a KOEO test. It will fool the PCM in to thinking the AIH is still there by comlpleting the circuit when it tries to energize it. Without the "fooler" wire you will get a soft code when reading codes and will not set the SES light.
I pics of how I did this in my Gallery in the "AIH Code Eliminator" album.
Last edited by mueckster; Feb 6, 2010 at 09:31 AM.
Reason: Reworded my response to be more clearer.