I had it in to a reputable Roush dealer today. They did find that the coil was bad. They also confirmed that the PCM has the most current up to date Roush Tune. Because of the extended warranty it will take them a couple days on paper work and whatnot, so the truck goes back in next Monday for the new coil and anything else they may find.

I know on stock 150s, they recommend plug changes at 100k miles, does that go for Roush charged vehicles as well?

 

Hey guys, Id like to re-open this 2 year old thread. After my dealer visit back in Feb of '10 the truck did run a bit better, still not to what I would consider correct though. the dealer , Brandon Ford in Fl, assured me everything is correct in tuning etc and it is what it is. Unfortunately my truck is the only Roush charged truck Ive driven or ridden in so I have nothing at all to compare to. And as I said, after the coil replacement and I had all 8 plugs changed, it ran a littel better, but still had issues of hesitation and such. So back to the issue at hand. A few months ago I got on the throttle more so than regular because a friend of mine wanted to see what it would do, it did its typical haul a$$ off the line for 50 feet then its like it shifts into OD and all power is lost, then it says "oh whoops" and down shifts and tries to take off again. My neighbor asked "what the hell whas that?" I replied w/ " the one thing I hate about my truck"
So now we go to this past wednesday. Im on the interstate and got caught up behind a slow driver in the left lane. I grabbed an opportunity to pass him to his right in the middle lane and stomped the gas, the truck went into a violent shake accompanied with a very bad gargling sound and no power what so ever. I got off the gas and back on it again and stalled the truck at 70+ mph? WTF! the rest of the afternoon and Thursday morning it ran like absolute crap. On the way home thursday afternoon, I thought Id drive home (about 13 miles) with the overdrive off and it seemed to run ok. I never got more than 50 or so mph but the couple times I blipped the gas real quick it seemed to want to go. So my question is, has my problem been an overdive issue the whole time????? Hopefully some of the previous repliers and others will chime in on this. I just made my last payment so its bound to break down any day....

On another note, Ive been doing some research though out the day on the roush charger, is it safe to assume I dont need to do anything maintenance wise on it. Im approaching 78K.

Thanks a lot for your thoughts
Scott

 

The answer to another rediculous thread is pedal to the metal. Hope you don't see those blue lights back ther though. Get it professionally tuned and dyno''''dddd.

 

So, my thread and problem is ridiculous and if I floor it everywhere I go my problem is solved, just watch out for cops. Thanks for the help

 

Johnny Lightning Performance use hands on Roush blower experience. Area code 717, contact them maybe they can give you the right advise. also the fuel pump module is known to fall on its face above 2000 rpm.

 

I had a long post written out for you but I hit reply and it froze.

Basically.

You need:

Autolite HT0 sparkplugs gapped at 0.030-.035
Custom dyno tune.

The post I lost was quite lengthy and I dont feel like rewriting all of it.

 

I appreciate the try. Finding a dyno tuner may be the hardest part. there was a shop Id heard of about an hour north of where I live but Im not sure if hes still around. Ill have to look into it. I thought about calling Troyer tomorrow and see what they say and/ or can do. I figure now that its paid in full, all warranties are expired etc etc, its time to make it run like it should of the day I got it. Im not looknig for a hot performace tune, I just want it to perform as I imagine it should without all the hicups and irratic behavior.

Oh and Its got the HT0 plugs in it from Roush, gapped at whatever the dealer does? Ive never got in there and pulled them as Im afraid w/ all the horror stories Ive read.

 

You probably still need a tune. They can just run it alittle richer or with alittle less timing. Not much difference between a performance tune and a standard tune.

Where do you live? I know several tuners that could do datalogging with you to get the tune correct. You would need a laptop and a handheld like Xcal, etc.

Pull the easiest plug and check the gap. For N/A they should be about .045 out of the box. You need the smaller gap .035.

 

Im in Parrish, FL, about 30 min south of Tampa (central west coat)

Any recommended tips pulling a plug to help it not break? I had all 8 replaced at about 53k, its now approaching 78k. At the time of replacement I think they (ford roush dealer in Brandon) said 6 of the 8 broke. Does letting them soak over night w/ a shot of penetration oil help at all on them?

Ive got a laptop, dont have a handheld tuner. I was always hesitant to invest in one because I didnt know if it would mess up the Roush flashing/ tune that was done. Im absolutely clueless about it. Ive rebuilt a couple 351s in my nautiques, but thats as far as I ever got, other than intakes, cheap bolt ons that probably do next to nothing, Ive never messed w/ so called "tuning" a newer vehicle. Once I get mine right Id like to start playing w/ my wifes 09 GT mustang....

 

I know a tuner in South FL and one in central FL(Orlando area).

Pull the plugs when they are alittle warm. That typically helps me pull them but then again, I've never broken a plug trying to pull one.

 

I may be heading over to orlando on Thursday. What shop do I need to visit?

 

Call Titan Motorsports, Orlando, they have the only 4x4 dyno in the area I believe. http://www.titanmotorsports.com 11370 boggy creek road

 

Do you have a 4x4 truck?

VMP tuning. I am trying to see if they have a 4x4 dyno since they custom build mobile dynos but I can't find any info on his website. I do know they tune 6.4s.

There are several reasons why I stay away from them.


Good luck.

 

Mines 2 wheel drive

 

Take it to VMP Tuning. Justin will make it right.