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I need to replace the lower boots (between turbo pedestal and intake). I will probably use the Dieselsite.com boots. My questions are, how much time does it take? Does anyone have instructions? Are there any other parts needed besides the boots and clamps for this project? I'm no pro, just a regular joe when it comes to wrenching skills.
They are really easy to get to. Take off the intake leader hose, take the 7/16" constant torque clamps off the intercooler boots at the intercooler, same with the spider boots, unscrew the AIH intake heater and remove wire, unscrew clamp on the turbo between the spider, unscrew bracket for the wastegate solenoid, and finally, unscrew the clamps for the boots... I dont have any pictures, but if you need some help, post back up and I can get you some pictures with explanations!
Hopefully you shouldn't need any new clamps, time wise, hard to say. No more than a few hours if you aren't gooofin around or cleaning the valley or something.
i got my boots from clay and they are ALOT harder to work into place that the soft factory ones, usefull tool is a small screwdriver to work the lip of the boot over the lip of the spyder and oh yea put the boots on the manifold first and the put the spyder on, i thought it was eaiser getting them on that way.
A cotter pin puller makes removing and installing hoses easier. You can work the hooked end around the hose to loosen it or guide the hose around the neck or pipe to install it.
Great pic Roland, now thats an explaination. Clay's boots are the best I've seen, they are a little bit longer and need to be worked on but they have an airtight seal, great boots for the price..
Nice Roland, I didn't have one and ruined my paradental tooth pic to remove one of my my fuel sleeve's , need to get a couple of those.. They do come in handy.
If you are going to replace the boots you should install these Plenum Reinforcing Inserts from Riffraff . Check out boots while you're there.
I have found that installing one boot on the plenum and the other boot on the spider things line up better and it makes it much easier.
Also, if you use the Riffraff plenum inserts, instead of regular hose clamps, you can use t-bolt clamps to get the boots real tight without
deforming the plenums and causing a boost leak. Just my 2¢.
I just replaced all of my boots. It wasn't hard at all, I got mine from Dieselsite, they came with all new clamps that are bigger and better than stock. I was tired of the oilly leaking boots, and I did the ccv mod too so I won't have that problem again. The new boots are thicker and look to be better quality than the stock ones. I think I used a 7/16" deep well socket for the clamps. Good luck.
Attachment 20889 A cotter pin puller makes removing and installing hoses easier. You can work the hooked end around the hose to loosen it or guide the hose around the neck or pipe to install it.
Reps! To a TRUE wrench turner! I've used cotter key removers for EVERYTHING! My fav is a Snap-ON unit, but I have a few craftsman too. Only the "old" parts guys will know what your talking about. Most people think it's a hook tool... it's not. With out fail, every time I've met someone who has one, and knows what it is and actually suppose to be for, have turned out to be excellent mechanics.
So to the OP, if you use one of these to do the deed, remember to be judicious with the "force" (like prying, pulling etc.) because the tool is STRONG, and will bend those flimsy intake plenums in two shakes of a stick. For hose removal, I try to sneak the tool between the "neck" and hose, then slide the hook around the neck, breaking the contact with the hose.
Thanks for the kind words and reps, Casper. The right tools can make easier work out of a difficult job. The cotter pin tool is one of the first things I grab when I'm working with clamped hoses.