Clutch safety switch 'mod'
#16
#17
See those two springs inside the CPP in his picture? If your springs look like this
Then that would be why your cruise doesn't work. The replacement part is only around $30 at autozoo, or just do the mod and find out what happens. You don't have anything to lose at this point.
Then that would be why your cruise doesn't work. The replacement part is only around $30 at autozoo, or just do the mod and find out what happens. You don't have anything to lose at this point.
#19
Pop, I looked this up in my '01 Service Manual thinking I might modify the SIL's '99 6-speed. Here is what I found:
The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -
#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)
#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.
On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.
I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -
#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)
#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.
On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.
I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
Last edited by JockD; 02-05-2010 at 01:58 PM. Reason: identify connecter location. Changed circuit description. Pop is right!
#20
I went into the wiring diagrams in my 2000's CD and found that the starter is pins 1 & 2, and the cruise is 3 & 4.
This differs slightly from what is above, but the starter circuit is normally open, and the cruise is normally closed, and 5 & 6 are not used in diesel trucks, all per the above.
Pop
This differs slightly from what is above, but the starter circuit is normally open, and the cruise is normally closed, and 5 & 6 are not used in diesel trucks, all per the above.
Pop
#21
I don't know about anybody else but to me it's a pointless inconvienience, this is the first manual I've ever had that has this 'safety' switch on it. It makes it almost impossible to start the truck unless your fully seated in the driving position, I know you don't need to do it very often but it's nice to be able to start the truck from outside when your working on something. Every vehicle I've ever had except two had been stick shifts and I've never accidentally started one in gear so this safety device is useless and just irks me sometimes. (plus I'm a Georgia redneck and we have a natural intolerance for any kind of safety devices, if I wanna do something stupid I don't want no electrical thing-a-ma-jig telling me I can't!)
#22
I don't know about anybody else but to me it's a pointless inconvienience, this is the first manual I've ever had that has this 'safety' switch on it. It makes it almost impossible to start the truck unless your fully seated in the driving position, I know you don't need to do it very often but it's nice to be able to start the truck from outside when your working on something. Every vehicle I've ever had except two had been stick shifts and I've never accidentally started one in gear so this safety device is useless and just irks me sometimes. (plus I'm a Georgia redneck and we have a natural intolerance for any kind of safety devices, if I wanna do something stupid I don't want no electrical thing-a-ma-jig telling me I can't!)
Timmy
#25
I don't know about anybody else but to me it's a pointless inconvienience, this is the first manual I've ever had that has this 'safety' switch on it. It makes it almost impossible to start the truck unless your fully seated in the driving position, I know you don't need to do it very often but it's nice to be able to start the truck from outside when your working on something. Every vehicle I've ever had except two had been stick shifts and I've never accidentally started one in gear so this safety device is useless and just irks me sometimes. (plus I'm a Georgia redneck and we have a natural intolerance for any kind of safety devices, if I wanna do something stupid I don't want no electrical thing-a-ma-jig telling me I can't!)
#29
Pop, I looked this up in my '01 Service Manual thinking I might modify the SIL's '99 6-speed. Here is what I found:
The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -
#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)
#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.
On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.
I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -
#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)
#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.
On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.
I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
This hunk of plastic switch fell apart in my hand and now it is time to bypass.
On edit...After looking and the wires and wiring diagram I only have four..Two for the start circuit and two for the cruise control. Cut and solder time!
Last edited by jetdoc; 02-18-2011 at 05:34 PM. Reason: add info