Clutch safety switch 'mod'
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Woah, I was planning on disconnecting that switch this weekend. I think I'll keep it hooked up for the convenience of cruise control and I like my functioning EBPV.
Great write-up with pics for sure.
Great write-up with pics for sure.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: Cypress, Texas
See those two springs inside the CPP in his picture? If your springs look like this
Then that would be why your cruise doesn't work. The replacement part is only around $30 at autozoo, or just do the mod and find out what happens. You don't have anything to lose at this point.
Then that would be why your cruise doesn't work. The replacement part is only around $30 at autozoo, or just do the mod and find out what happens. You don't have anything to lose at this point.
I'll look tomorrow.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 823
Likes: 5
From: Dallas, Oregon
Pop, I looked this up in my '01 Service Manual thinking I might modify the SIL's '99 6-speed. Here is what I found:
The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -
#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)
#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.
On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.
I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -
#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)
#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.
On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.
I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
Last edited by JockD; Feb 5, 2010 at 01:58 PM. Reason: identify connecter location. Changed circuit description. Pop is right!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
I went into the wiring diagrams in my 2000's CD and found that the starter is pins 1 & 2, and the cruise is 3 & 4.
This differs slightly from what is above, but the starter circuit is normally open, and the cruise is normally closed, and 5 & 6 are not used in diesel trucks, all per the above.
Pop
This differs slightly from what is above, but the starter circuit is normally open, and the cruise is normally closed, and 5 & 6 are not used in diesel trucks, all per the above.
Pop
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: southeat Ga.
)
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,679
Likes: 0
I don't know about anybody else but to me it's a pointless inconvienience, this is the first manual I've ever had that has this 'safety' switch on it. It makes it almost impossible to start the truck unless your fully seated in the driving position, I know you don't need to do it very often but it's nice to be able to start the truck from outside when your working on something. Every vehicle I've ever had except two had been stick shifts and I've never accidentally started one in gear so this safety device is useless and just irks me sometimes. (plus I'm a Georgia redneck and we have a natural intolerance for any kind of safety devices, if I wanna do something stupid I don't want no electrical thing-a-ma-jig telling me I can't!)
)
I was just curious if there was some other reason that I missedTimmy
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
You guys are missing the 2 real reasons to do this.
1. remote start for manuals
2. saves a bit of wear on the thrust bearings. OK, so this reason really isn't a big deal....
1. remote start for manuals
2. saves a bit of wear on the thrust bearings. OK, so this reason really isn't a big deal....
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
I don't know about anybody else but to me it's a pointless inconvienience, this is the first manual I've ever had that has this 'safety' switch on it. It makes it almost impossible to start the truck unless your fully seated in the driving position, I know you don't need to do it very often but it's nice to be able to start the truck from outside when your working on something. Every vehicle I've ever had except two had been stick shifts and I've never accidentally started one in gear so this safety device is useless and just irks me sometimes. (plus I'm a Georgia redneck and we have a natural intolerance for any kind of safety devices, if I wanna do something stupid I don't want no electrical thing-a-ma-jig telling me I can't!)
)
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 2
From: Pasadena, Maryland
Pop, I looked this up in my '01 Service Manual thinking I might modify the SIL's '99 6-speed. Here is what I found:
The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -
#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)
#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.
On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.
I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -
#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)
#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.
On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.
I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
This hunk of plastic switch fell apart in my hand and now it is time to bypass.
On edit...After looking and the wires and wiring diagram I only have four..Two for the start circuit and two for the cruise control. Cut and solder time!
Last edited by jetdoc; Feb 18, 2011 at 05:34 PM. Reason: add info
