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Clutch safety switch 'mod'

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  #16  
Old 02-05-2010, 12:21 AM
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Woah, I was planning on disconnecting that switch this weekend. I think I'll keep it hooked up for the convenience of cruise control and I like my functioning EBPV.

Great write-up with pics for sure.
 
  #17  
Old 02-05-2010, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
See those two springs inside the CPP in his picture? If your springs look like this



Then that would be why your cruise doesn't work. The replacement part is only around $30 at autozoo, or just do the mod and find out what happens. You don't have anything to lose at this point.
Thanks! I'll look tomorrow.
 
  #18  
Old 02-05-2010, 07:29 AM
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thats a very nice writeup. but yest that switch does effect cruise. when i fixed mine i got cruise back.
 
  #19  
Old 02-05-2010, 12:21 PM
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Pop, I looked this up in my '01 Service Manual thinking I might modify the SIL's '99 6-speed. Here is what I found:

The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -

#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)

#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.

On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.

I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
 

Last edited by JockD; 02-05-2010 at 01:58 PM. Reason: identify connecter location. Changed circuit description. Pop is right!
  #20  
Old 02-05-2010, 01:15 PM
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I went into the wiring diagrams in my 2000's CD and found that the starter is pins 1 & 2, and the cruise is 3 & 4.

This differs slightly from what is above, but the starter circuit is normally open, and the cruise is normally closed, and 5 & 6 are not used in diesel trucks, all per the above.

Pop
 
  #21  
Old 02-05-2010, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Hiflyer746
Just curious here. . . why do you want to deactivate this switch?
Timmy
I don't know about anybody else but to me it's a pointless inconvienience, this is the first manual I've ever had that has this 'safety' switch on it. It makes it almost impossible to start the truck unless your fully seated in the driving position, I know you don't need to do it very often but it's nice to be able to start the truck from outside when your working on something. Every vehicle I've ever had except two had been stick shifts and I've never accidentally started one in gear so this safety device is useless and just irks me sometimes. (plus I'm a Georgia redneck and we have a natural intolerance for any kind of safety devices, if I wanna do something stupid I don't want no electrical thing-a-ma-jig telling me I can't!)
 
  #22  
Old 02-05-2010, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Shade
I don't know about anybody else but to me it's a pointless inconvienience, this is the first manual I've ever had that has this 'safety' switch on it. It makes it almost impossible to start the truck unless your fully seated in the driving position, I know you don't need to do it very often but it's nice to be able to start the truck from outside when your working on something. Every vehicle I've ever had except two had been stick shifts and I've never accidentally started one in gear so this safety device is useless and just irks me sometimes. (plus I'm a Georgia redneck and we have a natural intolerance for any kind of safety devices, if I wanna do something stupid I don't want no electrical thing-a-ma-jig telling me I can't!)
I figured that was it and hell I'm with ya! Except I have long arms that allow me to push the pedal down with my left while keying with my right I was just curious if there was some other reason that I missed
Timmy
 
  #23  
Old 02-06-2010, 12:35 AM
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You guys are missing the 2 real reasons to do this.

1. remote start for manuals

2. saves a bit of wear on the thrust bearings. OK, so this reason really isn't a big deal....
 
  #24  
Old 02-06-2010, 12:45 AM
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I'm going to do this mod when I get a chance.
Still working on the engine transplant...............
 
  #25  
Old 02-06-2010, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Shade
I don't know about anybody else but to me it's a pointless inconvienience, this is the first manual I've ever had that has this 'safety' switch on it. It makes it almost impossible to start the truck unless your fully seated in the driving position, I know you don't need to do it very often but it's nice to be able to start the truck from outside when your working on something. Every vehicle I've ever had except two had been stick shifts and I've never accidentally started one in gear so this safety device is useless and just irks me sometimes. (plus I'm a Georgia redneck and we have a natural intolerance for any kind of safety devices, if I wanna do something stupid I don't want no electrical thing-a-ma-jig telling me I can't!)
Absolutely. I hate having to push in my clutch to start my truck. It's actually the first vehicle I've owned that was setup like that. I do like cruise control and once the jumper method is verified, I'm going to do the same thing and never look back. Who doesn't shake their gear shift to ensure it's in neutral before starting the truck anyway?
 
  #26  
Old 02-06-2010, 10:31 AM
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I want to do this so i can do remote start...
 
  #27  
Old 02-06-2010, 01:12 PM
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Its a good idea. . . but every stick car i drive I put in reverse while its parked. . . it would be bad for remote start!
Timmy
 
  #28  
Old 02-06-2010, 01:37 PM
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Our trucks MAY have a neutral saftey switch also... If not it wouldn't be hard/impossible to do.
 
  #29  
Old 02-18-2011, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JockD
Pop, I looked this up in my '01 Service Manual thinking I might modify the SIL's '99 6-speed. Here is what I found:

The connector (C261) at the clutch pedal switch has six terminals -

#1) WH/PK is +12V power
#2) DB/OG is output to starter
#3) RD/YE is cruise control input +12V
#4) TN/LB is output to cruise control
#5) WH/PK is +12V power (May be jumpered to #1)
#6) GY/YE is signal to PCM (Gas Engine Only)

#1-#2 is the Starter circuit, and is normally open
#3-#4 is the Cruise Control circuit, and is normally closed
#5-#6 is signal to the PCM for Gas engines only and is normally open.

On a diesel pickup, you need to jumper #1 to #3 and leave everything else alone if you want to keep the cruise control working. I think you can do this at the connector, but may have to "scotch lock" a jumper wire across the switch to connect the WH/PK and DB/OG wires.

I have not tried this yet, but it looks like it would work.
Real stupid question here guys...but why jumper 1 to 3???

This hunk of plastic switch fell apart in my hand and now it is time to bypass.

On edit...After looking and the wires and wiring diagram I only have four..Two for the start circuit and two for the cruise control. Cut and solder time!
 

Last edited by jetdoc; 02-18-2011 at 05:34 PM. Reason: add info
  #30  
Old 03-04-2014, 11:19 PM
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I just did this last night. Jumper 1 to 2. Cruise control still works. I just cut the first two and wire nutted them together.
 


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