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I have a 68 model 302 that ive just bought 1.7 ratio comp magnum roller tip rockers for. Its the rail type. Ive already done everything that needs to be done as far as studs and all. I went to test fit them today and before I get resistance in the pushrod my socket wedges against the rocker on the inside. Now I beleive its coming from the pushrod being to short. The cam is a stock hyd. flat tappet. Does anybody have any idea what length rod I need? Right now ive got the ones that were in it and their 6 13/16 or 6.81. I need help I know I can get the pushrod length tool and find out but I dont want to If I can.
If we're thinkin the same on the nuking part sounds like a good idea! I was just hoping someone else had done this and would give me a ball park range. The folks at summit told me that a stock pushrod for that motor should be 6.900 in length but i have two 302's and they both are the same like 6.81-Non-Roller. The guys at Comp said I need a 6.88 pushrod but I dont think thats going to make enough of a difference?
You'll be amazed at how much difference just 0.1" can make. For $10, I would just get that variable length pushrod to check.
When you said you had the studs done, what exactly did you do? Did you machine it for screw-in studs and guide plates? Were the stud bosses cut down enough to compensate for the thickness of the guide plates?
"...taking off and nuking the site from orbit, it's the only way to be sure..."
That was one of my favorite movies, for a couple of reasons.
Also, pushrod lengths are usually specified as if the ball tips were complete spheres. In fact they have the hole through them which removes part of the ball, so the measured length is less than the nominal length.
OK total change of plans I've been told to get away from the rail type while I've got them off and looking for an upgrade. Now I know that I can go the route of guideplates and what not. I'm goin to a Comp Pro Magnum Full Roller rocker arm. They have a non-self-aligning and a Self-aligning. I know the difference but am wondering how is the self-aligning made so that they self align? And is there a down side to these over the non-self-aligning ones? Thanks for all the info!!!
Here's an extra, bonus use for the pushrod tool - you can use it to take all the lash out of a hydraulic lifter when you check piston to valve clearance. Saves you from waiting a week for Summit to deliver two solid lifters or low tension valve springs.