1984 F250 XLT
rebuilt 351W
autoline carb
had dual tanks, previous owner removed the front one. i routed fuel line around the fuel tank selector and it is not attached, running only the rear tank.

This truck sat for years in a barn after the previous owner rebuilt the engine and then he died. I have been having fits with the carb, and finally found out why.

I use this truck as a plow truck. It will start, idle and run fine until I get the gas tank riled up from the back and forth from the motion of snowplowing. Then the sediment in the tank clogs the filters, both the inline and the on carb filter.

So, in 0 degree weather, i am out there removing filters every other day and washing them out with gas and blowing them clean with air compressor. There is serious sludge/mud/silt in the bottom of the rear tank, no question about it and when I use the truck for any amount of time, the sludge plugs the filters and the truck wont start or run or idle. When I have just cleaned the filters it starts, idles and runs like a champ.

Is there ANY way to rinse the tank out with out removing it or is that plain, out and out, just going to be the answer...? I have to resolve this mess once and for all because I have spent many days freezing my posterior off in minus zero Minnesota weather fixing these issues.

Anyone run into this and found answers that are worth of trying before pulling the tank and doing a replacement tank or ?

 

For $120, I would save myself the hassle and get the replacement tank.

 

I've got the same issue with my rear tank. I've just spent the last hour trying to break the nuts loose that hold my rear tank on, but no joy. At least the truck is in my garage and it is a toasty 40 degrees outside. I'm waiting to see what the inside of the tank looks like before I either clean it out or replace it.

I've sprayed the nuts with PBlaster, but they are frozen tight. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

for both of you, get a new tank. rockauto.com is where I bought my last tank from, they are reasonable , and have fast shipping. you save the money for the new tank, by not haveing to fool with filters, and carbs in the snow. been there. as far as the bolts, heat the nut with a oxy acetalene torch, or propane torch, and they will come off faairly easy with your socket. other option is to grind them off. watch open flames or sparks, you are fooling around with gas vapors, and it could blow up in your face. NEVER remove a gas tank inside. the gas vapors will lie on the floor, and blow up you, and your building.

 

The bolts pass clean through, crank om then with a long breaker bar and snap them off, replace them when you put it back. Since the front tank is already gone, how about putting a tank back there, and then deal with that rear tank later? You might be able to find a decent tank from a salvage yard so you can get the sender and everything at once.

 

You have some options. If you go to a yard and can not find a good tank, you could also put a Bronco tank in the back out of a carbed one. Do not forget to pick up straps and sending unit if you go that route. A side benefit would be a 32 gallon cap versus a 19 gal cap.

I would probably just save the headache and get a new one along with new filters.

 

Dont get a gas tank from a junk yard. Not worth the headache when they are so cheap to get new. I got a new one from my local car quest for 65$. Also for curiousity where are you located in Minnesota?

 

By Brainerd. I can see the benefits of going with a new one, if they are cost comparitive.

 

I can agree with the new for the rear, the only problem if you were to get one for the front is that you won't have the sender yet, which comes separate, plus the fuel lines to hook it up if they aren't there for you. You can also get the mounting straps as well, or buy them new. You can easily get $200 wrapped up buying all new for the front.

 

Oh okay I am in Mankato right now. Just kinda wondered where you were in regards to me.

 

I have a side mount gas tank I thought I could use with my truck which is FI. THetank i have is for carb models. Too bad you lives so far away, I'd sell it to you cheap!!! ITS BRAND NEW!!!!! I'm sure shipping would be insane on it.........

 

Polaris, email me at MagneMan AT inbox DOT com, changing the at and dot, of course, to the signs used. Lets discuss it!

 

one guy sez he punches a hole in the tank with a brass punch, drains, then repairs hole with screw and rubber washer. but....could you make the hole big enuff to drain sludge and still repair adequately?

 

greyghost: I have considered that, my concern was that would something like liquid lead or similiar hold up and seal efficiently...? i know its permanent on normal surfaces, would it hold there, on what would likely be a curved surface of a fuel tank? If so, I would punch a big ol hole!

 

That sounds like a horrible idea. Just drop the tank, and if it isn't rusty clean and reinstall. It isn't that hard. If a 15 year old can do it with no more tools than pliers, a socket set, and a floor jack whilst laying on a gravel driveway, you can do it in your garage.