dead electrical
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: seattle
dead electrical
working on a dead electrical ...EXCEPT the starting circuit...starts and runs fine. recently replaced ICVR all was well, Had 2 bad circuits on fuse block...rotted off terminals...on dome light and cigar lighter. Got new seperate aftermarket fuse block and put those circuits on new block.
Im helping a fellow FTE member on this problem...66 F100 6 banger...bare bones truck, no radio or anything...did swap out ignition switches(both new) and no difference at all.
Suggestions ???
- cs65
Im helping a fellow FTE member on this problem...66 F100 6 banger...bare bones truck, no radio or anything...did swap out ignition switches(both new) and no difference at all.
Suggestions ???
- cs65
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Colville, Washington
cs65- did the new fuse block get the dome light and cigar lighter working? You have no headlights, instruments or anything else? horn? brake lights? Remember there is a separate wire that powers up a lot of the constant hot items before or right at the fuse block.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: seattle
There is nothing working except starting circuit. The battery ground cable is routed to a valve cover bolt...which will be changed soon and there is no engine to cab ground as a PO had cut it or an end had broken off.
Where, on 6 cylinders do the grounds connect to on the engine ??? Im thinking that an inadequate amount of ground wires may be a part of the issue. It had a bad ICVR but I replaced it as then it only had 2 gauges which were bad in addition to the ICVR. However, it had functioning headlights and turn signals, etc. It had a new voltage regulator put on by a PO...one of the blue lid type.
The owner said he checked and theres juice going to and fro the ignition switch to the ICVR...beyond there I dont know.
Im thinking since theres inadequate grounding that that would be the first thing to address...beyond that all I can say is it has had a fair amount of wire ends replaced by the PO.
Thats where things are now...
- cs65
Where, on 6 cylinders do the grounds connect to on the engine ??? Im thinking that an inadequate amount of ground wires may be a part of the issue. It had a bad ICVR but I replaced it as then it only had 2 gauges which were bad in addition to the ICVR. However, it had functioning headlights and turn signals, etc. It had a new voltage regulator put on by a PO...one of the blue lid type.
The owner said he checked and theres juice going to and fro the ignition switch to the ICVR...beyond there I dont know.
Im thinking since theres inadequate grounding that that would be the first thing to address...beyond that all I can say is it has had a fair amount of wire ends replaced by the PO.
Thats where things are now...
- cs65
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Colville, Washington
The ICVR only affects the electrical gauges, so it is not causing any of these problems. There is a splice in the main power wire coming from the starter solenoid + terminal(where the battery + connects) under the dash that then runs to the ignition switch, light switch and the fuse block. It sounds like the splice has failed or the wires cut that run to the fuse block and light switch. There should be several hot terminals at the fuse block when the ignition switch is off. Can you check for power? The dome light and cig lighter should be hot all the time also.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 230
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From: Centralia, WA
hooray! my truck is the goofy one
We'll get it fixed. Thanks a bunch for helping out you guys!
I tested the fuse blocks with a multimeter and when the ignition switch is in the OFF position both the cigar lighter and dome light on the new fuse block have power, but nothing on the other (original) fuse block has power.
When I turn the key to ACC or ON all the fuses on the original fuse block power up.
It seems as if this is the normal operation of the ignition switch and fuse block(s) yet many things still do not work: headlights, instrument cluster, turn signals...
Thanks again for any thoughts or ideas!
I tested the fuse blocks with a multimeter and when the ignition switch is in the OFF position both the cigar lighter and dome light on the new fuse block have power, but nothing on the other (original) fuse block has power.
When I turn the key to ACC or ON all the fuses on the original fuse block power up.
It seems as if this is the normal operation of the ignition switch and fuse block(s) yet many things still do not work: headlights, instrument cluster, turn signals...
Thanks again for any thoughts or ideas!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I would move the feed for the lights to the circuit that is hot all the time if you want them to burn at any time.
Brake lights only work with the switch on, if my recall is correct. Front orange lights go out with head lights on.
John
Brake lights only work with the switch on, if my recall is correct. Front orange lights go out with head lights on.
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
What 1957/72 truck had a glass lighter fuse? N-O-N-E = NONE!
The lighter fuse (FEW14429A) is barrel shaped, with threaded male and female ends.
The female end threads onto the male stud located on the backside of the lighter socket, the wire plug just pushes onto the fuse's male end.
The factory installed fuse had a hole in it. Using the end of a paper clip (or similar) reset the fuse.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AFAIK, the "separate power wire" is this: COLF12250A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY37).
61.49" long / Color coded PINK / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 Gauge Wire.
Fits: All 1960/73 Passenger Cars/Trucks/Bronco's/Econoline's.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Don, some of these trucks have a fuse block located on the headlight switch.
Most people don't know this, so when they go looking for the fuse box, they can't find it.
So...they mickey-mouse another fuse block into the circuits.
Meanwhile...back at the ranch, the original fuse block is still attached to the headlight switch.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Colville, Washington
There should be constant 12v power to the headlight switch, whether the ignition switch is on or not. If there is no hot wire at the headlight switch then none of the lights except the dome light will work. You need to find the cause of no power to the light switch, some switches as Bill said have a fuse on them, check for one.
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Southern AB
Ground is very important and to do a quick check you could run a dedicated wire with an alligator clip from the neg post to wherever you need to test and touch it to the grounded part of that particular component and see if that is the cause.
Also I was watching powerblock TV this morning and the showed this power testing unit that you hook up and then you trace along the circuit and it tells you where the break is don't know what it is worth but pretty cool unit.
Electrical is so fun that's why i do it everyday.lol
D
Also I was watching powerblock TV this morning and the showed this power testing unit that you hook up and then you trace along the circuit and it tells you where the break is don't know what it is worth but pretty cool unit.
Electrical is so fun that's why i do it everyday.lol
D
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 230
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From: Centralia, WA
Thanks guys. I have tested all the fuses on the fuse blocks for continuity and none are blown.
I was looking at the headlight switch and all I can see is a bundle of wires going into the bottom of it. I unsuccessfully tried to take it apart. All I could do is pull out the bar. I don't know how to remove the rest of the switch so I can look for a fuse.
How do you do it?
I got a bunch of stuff today including a dome light out of a 1967 F-250 custom cab. I plugged it in and tested the socket and it's getting power but the light bulb doesn't light. The bulb doesn't look bad but it must be burned out. I don't have any spares around but I will get one tomorrow and test it.
I will be working on the truck tomorrow and will let you know if I make any progress.
I was looking at the headlight switch and all I can see is a bundle of wires going into the bottom of it. I unsuccessfully tried to take it apart. All I could do is pull out the bar. I don't know how to remove the rest of the switch so I can look for a fuse.
How do you do it?I got a bunch of stuff today including a dome light out of a 1967 F-250 custom cab. I plugged it in and tested the socket and it's getting power but the light bulb doesn't light. The bulb doesn't look bad but it must be burned out. I don't have any spares around but I will get one tomorrow and test it.
I will be working on the truck tomorrow and will let you know if I make any progress.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Thanks guys. I have tested all the fuses on the fuse blocks for continuity and none are blown.
I was looking at the headlight switch and all I can see is a bundle of wires going into the bottom of it. I unsuccessfully tried to take it apart. All I could do is pull out the bar. I don't know how to remove the rest of the switch so I can look for a fuse. How do you do it?
I got a bunch of stuff today including a dome light out of a 1967 F-250 custom cab. I plugged it in and tested the socket and it's getting power but the light bulb doesn't light. The bulb doesn't look bad but it must be burned out. I don't have any spares around but I will get one tomorrow and test it.
I will be working on the truck tomorrow and will let you know if I make any progress.
I was looking at the headlight switch and all I can see is a bundle of wires going into the bottom of it. I unsuccessfully tried to take it apart. All I could do is pull out the bar. I don't know how to remove the rest of the switch so I can look for a fuse.
How do you do it?I got a bunch of stuff today including a dome light out of a 1967 F-250 custom cab. I plugged it in and tested the socket and it's getting power but the light bulb doesn't light. The bulb doesn't look bad but it must be burned out. I don't have any spares around but I will get one tomorrow and test it.
I will be working on the truck tomorrow and will let you know if I make any progress.
John
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 230
Likes: 1
From: Centralia, WA
Originally Posted by dman2008
Ground is very important and to do a quick check you could run a dedicated wire with an alligator clip from the neg post to wherever you need to test and touch it to the grounded part of that particular component and see if that is the cause.
Originally Posted by jowilker
Did you ground the light?
I will try putting a ground on it at the fuse block after lunch and let you know if it helps. I just plugged it into the wire in the back of the cab. AFAIK it goes back to the fuse block and I would think there is a ground there?
I got a work-able headliner, and undamaged dome light and door switches out of a `67 F-250 yesterday. That completes my search for the basic stuff I need to complete the interior. It's going to be nice when I get it finished. I'll post some pictures.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
The whole body/chassis is the return wire back to the battery.
So when I asked if you grounded the light, you connect the lead in wire to hot and touch the light to any part of the body or chassis to make the bulb burn. That completes the circuit.
cheers
John
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 230
Likes: 1
From: Centralia, WA
Thanks John. You have a gift for putting volumes of knowledge into a few sentences.
I ran to the store and picked up a two pack of light bulbs for the dome light. I got back home and I feel really confident I'm going to make some progress now!
I've now got two dome light housings (only one good lens) and one has two wires (+ and -), the other has only one (+). So I tried both: one by grounding the housing, the other by grounding it's ground wire, checking both with the multimeter and seeing 12v of current and neither will light.
The battery ground cable is routed to a valve cover bolt and I added another 16 gauge wire from a different valve cover bolt to the chassis in back of the gas pedal. It does not appear to have helped.
Since the whole body/chassis is the return wire back to the battery, shouldn't I be able to see that current with the multimeter? I tried but I didn't pick up any current. Are there any other basic tests I can perform?
I ran to the store and picked up a two pack of light bulbs for the dome light. I got back home and I feel really confident I'm going to make some progress now!
I've now got two dome light housings (only one good lens) and one has two wires (+ and -), the other has only one (+). So I tried both: one by grounding the housing, the other by grounding it's ground wire, checking both with the multimeter and seeing 12v of current and neither will light.
The battery ground cable is routed to a valve cover bolt and I added another 16 gauge wire from a different valve cover bolt to the chassis in back of the gas pedal. It does not appear to have helped.
Since the whole body/chassis is the return wire back to the battery, shouldn't I be able to see that current with the multimeter? I tried but I didn't pick up any current. Are there any other basic tests I can perform?