When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
oh I got yah now. Hopefully some others who have done the installation will chime in and let us know if its a typical fit for that kit. I have seen several, but none of the ones I saw had that gap.
I called Mid Fifty and talked to Dianne (Technical Support). She has a lot of information to offer about this conversion and the procedure. The first picture in this post cleary shows the window seal has not been properly massaged into the corner. When the seal is installed, it needs to be "massaged" into the corners. The seal is made from a straight piece of rubber, which results in being too short when wrapped around the corner in this area. She explained this is the most common question they get from customers once the window has been installed. She went on to explain its an easy fix and just needs some patience and manipulating to fit better.
Will do, started drilling the spot welds yesterday. My conversion patch will be here Thursday so I can make the six foot cut under the window and get ready for the long butt weld. Ugh!
When I sectioned the cab of my 56 I made the cut below the top rail of the bed and overlapped the metal about 1 1/2 inches. It made that long weld a lot more rigid and and 'way easier to control the heat. FYI
I really thought about the option of a lap weld. If I did that, I would also consider adhesive. With all the adhesive products on the market, there is one that has allegedly been perfected to eliminate "ghost" lines common to that process. The process you used also eliminates the need for cutting that "perfect" straight line to match the patch panel.
The reason I put the the seam lower than the top of the bed was that you can't see the seam. I also painted the front panel of the bed (between the bed and the cab) flat back. Makes it almost impossible to see what's between the bed and the cab. If you'll look in my gallery under "construction pics" you can see my "medium window" same width as a small window but is the same height as the door glass. Lots cheaper too!
I like your rear window modification. What did you do about the brace that runs thru the middle of the cab in the stock small window configuration at the bottom of the stock window?
Good to know. I have a set of bear claws still in the box, I guess I will have to check them out before I move the brace so I have that option. Im thinking the window conversion kit I have ordered may have a brace included. Will know on Wednesday.
FYI while we are on the subject, I also put the latches in the door jamb and the post on the door. It's clean, you don't have to cut into the upholstery panel for latch clearance and it makes the wiring much easier to do and to get to. When I close the doors from outside I grab the post to shut the door and avoid fingerprints on the paint. Kinda ****, but that's me.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.