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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

'56 Big Window Installation Question

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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 06:52 PM
  #16  
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Outlaw56
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oh I got yah now. Hopefully some others who have done the installation will chime in and let us know if its a typical fit for that kit. I have seen several, but none of the ones I saw had that gap.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 11:13 AM
  #17  
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I called Mid Fifty and talked to Dianne (Technical Support). She has a lot of information to offer about this conversion and the procedure. The first picture in this post cleary shows the window seal has not been properly massaged into the corner. When the seal is installed, it needs to be "massaged" into the corners. The seal is made from a straight piece of rubber, which results in being too short when wrapped around the corner in this area. She explained this is the most common question they get from customers once the window has been installed. She went on to explain its an easy fix and just needs some patience and manipulating to fit better.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 07:33 AM
  #18  
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fatfenders56
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Keep working and keep us posted, I am very interested in this now
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 08:51 AM
  #19  
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Will do, started drilling the spot welds yesterday. My conversion patch will be here Thursday so I can make the six foot cut under the window and get ready for the long butt weld. Ugh!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #20  
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When I sectioned the cab of my 56 I made the cut below the top rail of the bed and overlapped the metal about 1 1/2 inches. It made that long weld a lot more rigid and and 'way easier to control the heat. FYI
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 09:57 AM
  #21  
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I really thought about the option of a lap weld. If I did that, I would also consider adhesive. With all the adhesive products on the market, there is one that has allegedly been perfected to eliminate "ghost" lines common to that process. The process you used also eliminates the need for cutting that "perfect" straight line to match the patch panel.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 12:25 PM
  #22  
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The reason I put the the seam lower than the top of the bed was that you can't see the seam. I also painted the front panel of the bed (between the bed and the cab) flat back. Makes it almost impossible to see what's between the bed and the cab. If you'll look in my gallery under "construction pics" you can see my "medium window" same width as a small window but is the same height as the door glass. Lots cheaper too!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 01:48 PM
  #23  
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I like your rear window modification. What did you do about the brace that runs thru the middle of the cab in the stock small window configuration at the bottom of the stock window?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 05:42 PM
  #24  
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I just cut the brace loose at the door jambs, moved it down and re-welded it. It also made for a good solid brace for the bear jaw door latches
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:17 PM
  #25  
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Good to know. I have a set of bear claws still in the box, I guess I will have to check them out before I move the brace so I have that option. Im thinking the window conversion kit I have ordered may have a brace included. Will know on Wednesday.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 08:01 AM
  #26  
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FYI while we are on the subject, I also put the latches in the door jamb and the post on the door. It's clean, you don't have to cut into the upholstery panel for latch clearance and it makes the wiring much easier to do and to get to. When I close the doors from outside I grab the post to shut the door and avoid fingerprints on the paint. Kinda ****, but that's me.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 09:26 AM
  #27  
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Can u post pictures of how you did it?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 09:56 AM
  #28  
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Let me look through my construction pics and see what I can find. If nothing is there I'll just take some. Stay tuned
 
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 06:06 PM
  #29  
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still tuned, lol.
 
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