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Ceramic Coated Piston Question

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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 02:05 AM
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run6.0run
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From: Kansas City MO
Ceramic Coated Piston Question

Hello all, I was so excited when I found these I just had to tell someone. I was at an unclaimed freight store here in KCMO and I found ARP studs for the 6.0 there. They wanted $205 for them which I was ready to pay for them, but then I realized it was some special bag day that would allow 25% off if it fits in a bag. Well I had no bag, but a guy next to me said I could borrow his and I ended up getting them for $160. WOW, the ones I put on my last 06 6.0 I spent about $500. I am going to tear my new truck apart as soon as it gets warm and get them in. I did the last truck in the winter out of necessity. I really got lucky with the new truck I bought. I can't believe the engine is dry underneath. It has never been flashed by the dealer. The pulling power is very nice. I have been working it in the mountains with no puking. I loved the torqueshift in my last truck but the manual is (IMO) much better for towing(again, in my opinion). I don't get as much time on here to read and post lately cause I am driving (I deliver campers for a living). but I am going to try to make the head gaskets last til its warm so I can install the studs and not have to worry about any problems with warped or cracked heads. I tow on stock stage and run empty on stage 5 (all highway hardly ever over 65mph). I had everything done to the last truck, (egr delete, studs, exhaust, coolant recirculate, fuel x-over ect). I am going to ask a question now after the novel I just wrote. What are your opinions about running low RPMs with the load percentage high? This manual has good power at the low rpms and I have been letting it bawg down to about 1350 rpms before downshifting. I am pretty 6.0 literate and will be tearing it down anyways, so I am wondering about getting the ceramic coated pistons and the heavy duty connecting rods. My understanding of this is the lower the rpms and the further in the pedal I am, I am running the risk of burning a hole in the piston(my goal is to tow on a higher stage with the edge and make it reliable, as possible). I am planning on having the engine dissassembled so pulling the block out wouldn't be a big deal. I am also looking for info on the ARP bed plate studs. Does anyone have any experience with any of this (I am looking for responses from those that work their trucks and turn their own wrenches). Well noone will probably read all the way down here but it is worth a shot. thanks again
 
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