steering wheel wobbles back and forth 2004
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steering wheel wobbles back and forth 2004
i have an 2004 super crew short bed fx4 at 50mph to 70mph the steering wheel wobbles back and forth is there any way to check if the rack and pinon are bad thanks
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i have two sets of tires and it does it with both sets first set bfg at 285x60 on factory wheels does not do it as bad as the 33x12.5 mud countrys on procomp wheels that are 17x9 the mud countrys and wheels are brand new the problem started about 3000 miles ago the truck has 110000 miles on it i think the problem has been getting worse if your sitting in the truck with it off you can wiggly the steering wheel back and forth and hear somthing make a little clunking sound but if you turn it right or left slow and watch the tire it feels tight and the wheel moves with the tires
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Does it seem to be play in the steering column?
If so check the torque on the pinion shaft for the steering wheel. Found in beside the airbag electrical connection.
If it seems to be in the steering linkage?
Lift the front end and watch the linkage as someone wiggles the steering wheel for you. Go through the normal linkage inspection for wear and tear on all the joints. Inspect tire wear for cupping and alignment indicators.
As to the original concern of the Rack & Pinion you would look for the input shaft movement while watching the Right and Left output shafts for relational movement. Also check the condition of the steering fluid for contaminates.
If so check the torque on the pinion shaft for the steering wheel. Found in beside the airbag electrical connection.
If it seems to be in the steering linkage?
Lift the front end and watch the linkage as someone wiggles the steering wheel for you. Go through the normal linkage inspection for wear and tear on all the joints. Inspect tire wear for cupping and alignment indicators.
As to the original concern of the Rack & Pinion you would look for the input shaft movement while watching the Right and Left output shafts for relational movement. Also check the condition of the steering fluid for contaminates.
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From: Langley BC
This TSB looks to apply to your situation.
04-25-7***VEHICLE/STEERING WHEEL VIBRATION AT 50 MPH (80 KM/H) OR HIGHER - STEERING WHEEL NIBBLE AT 65 MPH (105 KM/H) OR HIGHER
04-25-7***VEHICLE/STEERING WHEEL VIBRATION AT 50 MPH (80 KM/H) OR HIGHER - STEERING WHEEL NIBBLE AT 65 MPH (105 KM/H) OR HIGHER
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 113
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From: Connecticut
check your wheels for wheel weights missing first, maybe need that balance that was said. I doubt it since you said it happens when sitting still. If its happening under braking also, it could be warped rotors. Alignment too could cause that, or it could be ball joints / rod ends, which is where my money is at. Especially with the high miles, no zerk fittings on the ball joints and the clunking that happens when you turn the wheel sid to side.
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ok got the floor jack out and with both front wheels off the ground the balljoints feel tight so i had my brother wiggly the steering wheel back and forth and theres some slop on the driver side were the tie rod goes into the rubber boot on the rack and pinion can i just replace the tie rod or do i have to replace the whole unit thanks
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Short answer is, yes.
Although, on my vehicles I prefer to replace both inner and outer tie rods on both sides at the same time. Same when I do ball joints. Over the years I have noted that one can expect the same life time out of similar parts on a vehicle. I have found that doing one at a time leaves me chasing them, as the next one goes bad. This way, the vehicle is down for maintenance once as opposed to once for each tie rod.
Although, on my vehicles I prefer to replace both inner and outer tie rods on both sides at the same time. Same when I do ball joints. Over the years I have noted that one can expect the same life time out of similar parts on a vehicle. I have found that doing one at a time leaves me chasing them, as the next one goes bad. This way, the vehicle is down for maintenance once as opposed to once for each tie rod.
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Well, the Haynes that I have is about worthless for depicting serviceable steering linkage. What is does show is the R&R of the outer tie rod end. Lacking any other input, I would recommend first to do a search on this forum for any threads on tie rod replacement, and then pull the boot off the rack to explore what you are getting into. Clamp on rod should come off with pliers. Clamp on rack will probably need cut and replaced. I have not needed to do mine so I will be watching your progress as you post. Pictures will help us if you need a second opinion. I certainly hope it can be serviced.
I noticed that the Haynes shows replacing the control arms with the ball joints as the ball joints are not serviceable. That sounds a little much.
I did do a quick search and came up with;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-not-help.html
It does not look hopeful.
I noticed that the Haynes shows replacing the control arms with the ball joints as the ball joints are not serviceable. That sounds a little much.
I did do a quick search and came up with;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-not-help.html
It does not look hopeful.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Connecticut
i agree, i would also change both sides of rods if thats where you determine the problem, their life spans tend to be equal and its a pain to do one at a time. When you go out for new rod ends, i would try and get some with zerks. I havnt yet had to replace mine of the 150, but on everything else ive worked on or owned i like to use zerks, it just gives you the ability to service your truck with a little grease, rather than having to replace parts over and over. MOOG is known for good rod ends and ball joints with zerk fittings. As for the ball joints, they can be tricky, when you shimmy the wheel to check them, or use a bar to pry against them make sure they are not 'too tight' meaning, no grease and seized up. They shouldnt move but a little when you pry against them, but if you find yourself struggling to move them thats a red flag. While your under there id check to make sure the boots arnt cracked or dry rotted.
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thanks for the help guys i went to some auto parts stores and every one i went to you have to buy the rack and pinion to get the inner tie rods so iam going to buy a new rack and pinion and do the outer tie rods too thanks
