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This is the first time posting.....Background...just bought a 1985 F150..it was in serious need of TLC and not running..after a lot of work, we now have it in running condition....Some paperwork on the truck, not enough info to help w/this....it has a 351W..manual trans..and 4x4....not sure the shift pattern on the 4 wheel drive and after initial run there is now a clunking in the front end....also,# on trans is E3TA7003 and transfer case #4TA7A195AA...can someone please help decifer these numbers and give me a direction for the "clunk?"....Thanks
Clunking in front - I had that problem once, it seemed to only clunk when I drove over a
bump and it took a while to figure out... In my case, the front axle outer u-joint was in
BAD shape, the spider thing was bouncing around in the other half (it's too early in the
morning for me to remember correct & proper names).
Trans should be a Borg Warner T18 or a New Process variant - 208 or 435 or sumthin', I
forget which.
Transfer case is similar; I have a Borg Warner 1435, some trucks have a New Process
variant.
Clunking in front - I had that problem once, it seemed to only clunk when I drove over a
bump and it took a while to figure out... In my case, the front axle outer u-joint was in
BAD shape, the spider thing was bouncing around in the other half (it's too early in the
morning for me to remember correct & proper names).
Trans should be a Borg Warner T18 or a New Process variant - 208 or 435 or sumthin', I
forget which.
Transfer case is similar; I have a Borg Warner 1435, some trucks have a New Process
variant.
i agree with ctubutis,i had the same problem.it took me 3 hours to do the passenger side,to get the spindle off and replace that inner u-joint.the inner yoke does not come out and is retained with a c clip,but it can be done with a ball joint remover.
here is that center yoke.some are retained buy 2 bolts but most have the c clips
here is the axle shaft,just pull the slip joint apart.
this was the biggest P.I.A. removing the spindle,so you can slide the axle out.
here is the tool that makes replacing that inner u joint alot easier.IMO
here is that center yoke.some are retained buy 2 bolts but most have the c clips
My Dana 50 was held in with two bolts, guess I'm lucky, huh?
Getting it out of the pumpkin was different, though... I used some Russian
ingenuity and ended up wrapping a chain around the axle end (don't remember
how I secured it but I'm sure that u-joint was involved and prolly a nut & bolt)
and wrapped the other end around the spindle somehow, secured it somehow,
then turned the steering wheel to have it pull the axle out of the pumpkin.
Worked pretty well.
this was the biggest P.I.A. removing the spindle,so you can slide the axle out.
I agree, that sucked! I was toooooo gentle (didn't want to damage any critical
surfaces) and ended up using a hammer & chisel between the spindle &
backing plate. Not really a good idea, I ended up cutting holes in the backing
plate. It's only sheet metal so arduous use of a ball peen hammer "fixed" it but I
would have preferred it hadn't happened.
here is the tool that makes replacing that inner u joint alot easier.IMO
I didn't have one of those, I resorted to the Neanderthal Method - old sockets,
BFH (hammer), vice, stuff like that. <-- Not the preferred approach, get the right
tools if you can.
Thanks so much for the info.....after actually getting out and looking at the truck while my wife was driving it, the noise I heard in the front is actually coming from the back end....Come to find out that a "grenade" went off in there.....it is a total mess in the rear-end......Bought the truck from what I thought was a friend and actually, he did the biggest "mickey mouse" job on that truck.....He feed me B.S. all the way...probably to get rid of it......So now, I need a new rear-end.......thinking about getting a bigger one maybe.....Anyone have any suggestions?
with friends like that who needs enimies.I have encontered poeple like that.I think you rear end should be the stirling 10.25,with is I pretty stout rear,would love to find out how he blew it up.
No 10.25's in half tons, if you get the axle code off the drivers door jamb someone could decode to be sure of what you have. This might interest you also: Axle Identification Chart
The full float rears were not a factory options on the F150 though. This feller has a 85 F150, not the F250. I hava a 84 F250 with the full float D60 myself, D50 in the front.
oops.for some reason I thought he had a f350.must have confused with another post.been up since 4:00 am ,brain dead now.in that case he probably has 8.8 rear.but the door jamb sticker will confirm.sorry had massive brain fart.lmao