Taking longer to Start
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
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From: Rolla, MO
Taking longer to Start
Ok, I've noticed for the last few days it's taking longer for the truck to turn over. It will crank over but it's taking longer for it to start. Not really sure what it is. The weather has been in the high 30's low 40's in the morning. Normally it turns over fairly quick with these temps. It's turned over quicker when it's been colder.
I've noticed posts on here about the GPR, but I'm not so sure that's what it is. Oil level is fine, batteries are new. Possibly the starter is going? Any ideas?
I've noticed posts on here about the GPR, but I'm not so sure that's what it is. Oil level is fine, batteries are new. Possibly the starter is going? Any ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,754
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis
Don- the GPR is the Glow Plug Regulator. It's that big solenoid to the left and behind the fule bowl as you see it if your standing on the bumper. To test it, you can put a voltmeter from each of the bigger leads to ground with the keys out of the ignition, so you're not getting any voltage to the glow plugs. The one that is hot will alwas be hot. NOW, acting somewhat fast (you have about 2 minutes) turn the key on, then put your volt meter on the lead that you previously recognized as the cold one, and the other meter lead to ground. If you are getting voltage, then the GPR is not the issue. BUT if you're still not registering voltage at that lead then you know you need to replace the GPR. I know there is a bigger unit that you can install, but I can't remeber what it is, maybe someone will chime in here.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,708
Likes: 5
From: Kiowa CO
Don, read here for more info on the GPR (Glow Plug Relay).
Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page
Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
Don- the GPR is the Glow Plug Regulator. It's that big solenoid to the left and behind the fule bowl as you see it if your standing on the bumper. To test it, you can put a voltmeter from each of the bigger leads to ground with the keys out of the ignition, so you're not getting any voltage to the glow plugs. The one that is hot will alwas be hot. NOW, acting somewhat fast (you have about 2 minutes) turn the key on, then put your volt meter on the lead that you previously recognized as the cold one, and the other meter lead to ground. If you are getting voltage, then the GPR is not the issue. BUT if you're still not registering voltage at that lead then you know you need to replace the GPR. I know there is a bigger unit that you can install, but I can't remeber what it is, maybe someone will chime in here.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
If the GPR is going out, yes it can.
The contacts inside the GPR arc when it connects and disconnects. Each time it arcs...it is actually "burn" Eventually over time you get alot of carbon buildup from the arcing. More carbon = more resistance = glow plugs getting less juice.
The GPs dont heat up as much causing the truck to have to work more to start as the weather cools.
Make sure the voltage input to the relay is what you get for output. If it is less, then there is some resistance in there and could be time to replace the GPR.
The contacts inside the GPR arc when it connects and disconnects. Each time it arcs...it is actually "burn" Eventually over time you get alot of carbon buildup from the arcing. More carbon = more resistance = glow plugs getting less juice.
The GPs dont heat up as much causing the truck to have to work more to start as the weather cools.
Make sure the voltage input to the relay is what you get for output. If it is less, then there is some resistance in there and could be time to replace the GPR.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
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From: Rolla, MO
Ok, I will check out the GPR and see if it is failing. If it is that who sells the stancor GPR that everyone swears by? Should I check the HPOP plug and look at the oil level as well? I haven't done that yet.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Here are some slow start issues I've experienced personally:
1. Low fuel level. When I'm near the bottom of the tank it takes longer to start (longer for my fuel pump to raise discharge pressure with no suction head)
2. Oil leak. My HPOP had a leak and it was taking longer to build pressure to fire the injectors (IIRC your injectors won't fire until the HPOP builds to 500psi discharge pressure)
3. Low/bad battery. I had one battery go bad and the truck didn't start. As the battery died the starting time became longer until it finally wouldn't turn over.
4. Tired starter. My starter is getting old and I have a replacement on the way. I did, however, climb under there and tighten the mounting bolts and that helped a little.
Just my .02 from what I've personally experienced.
I would also check the electrical connections too (grounding strap and battery terminals) as poor contact and corrosion do not conduct very well. A solution of baking soda and water cleans the terminals easily, cheaply and pretty quickly too.
1. Low fuel level. When I'm near the bottom of the tank it takes longer to start (longer for my fuel pump to raise discharge pressure with no suction head)
2. Oil leak. My HPOP had a leak and it was taking longer to build pressure to fire the injectors (IIRC your injectors won't fire until the HPOP builds to 500psi discharge pressure)
3. Low/bad battery. I had one battery go bad and the truck didn't start. As the battery died the starting time became longer until it finally wouldn't turn over.
4. Tired starter. My starter is getting old and I have a replacement on the way. I did, however, climb under there and tighten the mounting bolts and that helped a little.
Just my .02 from what I've personally experienced.
I would also check the electrical connections too (grounding strap and battery terminals) as poor contact and corrosion do not conduct very well. A solution of baking soda and water cleans the terminals easily, cheaply and pretty quickly too.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
Yes...check the oil level. 3/4 to 1/2 from the top.
And what the others said too.
Here is the realy link...
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...uMIB1EaA%3d%3d
And the page for replacing it from Guzzle....
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/s_gpr.php
