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light bar...whatcha got?

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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 11:36 PM
  #16  
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From: Canyon Country
alright...I have a guy that is going to build me a light bar I just have to pick out the lights first.

Chrome or black light housings??? I can't decide... just going to have him make a plain black bar like the chocoloco bar with 4 - 8" lights
 
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 11:37 PM
  #17  
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From: Canyon Country
oh yea...one more ?

how should I wire these to my uplifter switches? relays?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 05:30 AM
  #18  
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Don't those switches already have relays? I don't have them, just thought that they did.

Anyways, I wired my relays up to my parking lights (parking lights have to be turned on to turn KC's on), so that I get a chime if I happen to leave the lights on with the truck off.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #19  
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got my lights, 4 - 8" 130w black pro comp lights and my buddy is going to build my light bar next saturday morning!

wiring the lights?? using the #1 and #2 uplifter switches run one 12 gauge wire from each uplifter switch 2 wires total to the front end then the + from the two middle lights to one of the wires I brought up from the uplifter and the two outside lights the + from both of them to the other wire I brought up from the uplifter, then ground all 4 of the lights together to the frame somewhere up front. can I do this? or is there a correct/better way?

thanks!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #20  
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well after a little wait but well worth it this is what I have

just have to get it painted or powder coated



 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 02:20 PM
  #21  
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Sweet!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #22  
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I'd wire them up where the upfitters turn on relays located in the engine bay. Power the relays directly from the battery (fused between the batt and relay of course) and then run the wires to the lights. each light will draw roughly 9-11 amps depending on the voltage at the time, so make sure your relays are rated for at least 30amps. 40 would be better though. Oh, and you'll probably be better off with 10 awg wire between the batt and lights. 12 is probably pushing it at that amount of amps.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 03:28 PM
  #23  
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On my F-150; Fabricated at work between tows.
6" 100w Hellas
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 03:52 PM
  #24  
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Shorebird- I love the hidden lights. I thought about doing that before I built mine but on my 06 SD there just wasnt enough room from what it looked like.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #25  
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#1 and #2 upfitter are 30 amp and already relayed, use 10 gauge as said above, other than that your wiring seems fine to me. 30 amp relay for two lights is fine, 30% margin is plenty. Upfitter switches are not functional with the truck off. Nice bar, I am going to see if my bro can do the same for me, get it powder coated locally. Gotta be less than what they want to charge around here.....
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 05:04 PM
  #26  
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Thanks! I love it! and can't wait to get it done and on the truck.

i'm a little confused about the wire guage size and what I should use...the wires that come out of the back of the lights are 16 guage...why should I use anything lower like 12 or 10 guage? not being a smart ***...I honestly don't know too much about wiring/electricty, I just want it to be done the right way!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 06:50 PM
  #27  
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Longer runs require heavier wire because the voltage drops over a distance. The longer the distance, the more it drops. The smaller the wire, the higher the drop is. The #16 wire on the lights is fine a short run with a single light, but 2 lights is way too much. I like oversizing wires when it comes to lighting because less voltage drop means brighter lights. Thats why some people put aftermarket harnesses on for headlights that feed direct from the battery.

A good example of how electricity works is to think of electricity as water and a hose as the wire. Trying to flow more water through a small hose requires more work (generates heat in a wire) then flowing the same amount through a larger hose. Does that make sense?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 07:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by twags6
Longer runs require heavier wire because the voltage drops over a distance. The longer the distance, the more it drops. The smaller the wire, the higher the drop is. The #16 wire on the lights is fine a short run with a single light, but 2 lights is way too much. I like oversizing wires when it comes to lighting because less voltage drop means brighter lights. Thats why some people put aftermarket harnesses on for headlights that feed direct from the battery.

A good example of how electricity works is to think of electricity as water and a hose as the wire. Trying to flow more water through a small hose requires more work (generates heat in a wire) then flowing the same amount through a larger hose. Does that make sense?

thanks! makes sense now!
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 09:33 PM
  #29  
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From: Canyon Country
DONE!! got it back from the powder coater and installed. these lights are bright!! took a drive last night to check them out and WOW!
got the two center lights hooked up to the #1 uplifter and the two outside lights on the #2 switch, ran 12awg wire from the dash to the lights and spit to each light.

Thanks for all the help and ideas guys!!





 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #30  
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Mines an e-bay bar also with 100w KC Daylighters and 100 watt Eagle Fogs.

 
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