Thanks for all the information about the difference between dinos and synthetics. Has anybody ever used a brand called Lubri Moly [also known as Lubro Moly]?

 

I must have passed over that explanation in the previous pages.
Thank you both for the clarification, I appreciate that.

Though one thing still bugs me.
You say that its not worth the extra cost for syns...
BUT......do you not think that the $40 per syn oil change,
coupled with a 10k-15k OCI is equal to a $20 per DINO
change at 5k-7k?

 

Warranty issues. The book says 6 months/5000 miles. You do not have to do that. but why take the risk? My 09 Jeep has a lifetime engine warranty with no mileage restriction (although I will probably only keep it 2 or 3 years).

And with leases, you are obligated to maintain per manufacturer's specs. Probably no big deal if you do not, but if something does go wrong, it will be the first thing the lease company will point to.

So even if the cost is the same, there is risk involved. Why take a risk for even money?

Also, I can do a dino change for under $15. AZ and O'Reilly all have $12.99 5 qt. and filter specials.

Almost done. I bought about 20-30 cases of name brand 5w-30 SL oil when it was on sale a few years ago. Bought most of it <$1/qt. That oil is perfect for my older cars and/or cars out of warranty. Those oil changes cost me less than $10.

Finally, the main benefit to syn., as I see it, is under extreme temperatures and/or usage. I really do not use my cars that hard. Mostly puttering around in suburban driving. Even when I tow, it really is not that heavy of a trailer (10k lbs.), and I plan my routes for maximum freeway driving on the flattest terrain. And I have done UOA on the dino used in my diesels. They all came back squeaky clean. If a longer OCI is what I was interested in, I would just extend my dino a couple of thousand miles. I know it can take it.

 

Shell's XHVI Group III+ base oil is made from petroleum slack wax, since most GTL projects are still under construction or on hold in the current economy. Helix Ultra and Rotella T synthetic are made from that base oil. Rotella T syn is one heck of a bargain at about $20 a gallon.

Our 1992 BMW had its computer calibrated for 10,000 mile maximum OCI with BMW Long Life approved DINO, which was really just 15W-40 HDEO. At the time, Chevron Delo 400 listed the spec and thats what I mostly used. So, Group II+ base oil plus HDEO add pack = 10k miles OCI.

Jim

 

Never used it, but it is another boutique "Euro Trash" oil. A BMW mail order parts supplier sells it for high prices. Elf, Motul and Agip are also available mail order if Royal Purple or Redlne just arent expensive or exclusive enough for you. Since Chevron and others use Moly in regular oil formulas now, and many European synthetics are Group III, I just dont see the point.

Jim

 

Why do you tear down your engines at 200,000 miles?

 

low friction - nope, just as "slickery", unless it's got the energy saving starburst stamp that means it's got friction modifiers but that has nothing to do with dino vs. syn
better emissions - how? I can't even come up with a theory on this one - burnt oil is burnt oil syn or not
sludge - I'll give you this one but running any oil too long, even a boutique syn, and you'll get sludge. It just takes longer with the syn than the dino.


Synthetic do have generally have special features BUT it's only worth the extra money IF you are going to call on those features. If you aren't in a COOOLD climate, have a turbo or running long OCIs then you'll never see the benefit. An SM rated conventional will protect an ordinary engine in an ordinary climate just as well as some fancy pants synthetic for the first 5k-10k miles. It's like buying a 100ft extension ladder to put siding on a one-story ranch house. It's not going to hurt anything and you might feel cool but there's no real benefit either.

 

The Military uses bulk dino 15w40 in their heavy equipment for the most part.

 

And I've only met one truck driver who's ever used full synthetic oil in his truck. It's extremely rare in the trucking industry. Most places don't even sell it! I've NEVER seen RTS or Mobil1 TDT at a truck service shop. I've seen Delvac 1 twice...

 

Use whatever the hell you want to use. If you've got oil in your vehicle you'll be aight. Watch the mileages of some of the vehicles that come into shops getting regular oil changes. Folks with 250,000 on their Chevy Cavaliers still not putting high mileage in. Thing runs like ****, but not cause of the oil haha.

My 84 Supra has 10W-40 Supertech HighMileage and a Purolator Pure One Filter.
My F150 has 10W-30 Motorcraft SynBlend and a Pennzoil PZ1 filter I "acquired" at work.

I'm deciding whether to use the same oil and filters for them now on or using Motorcraft for the truck and something else for the Supra. Not sure yet.

 

Bottom line - would you guys run wallyworld super tech 15w40 in your 7.3 idi turbo? It's a '93 with 350k kliks on it.

 

I would...

 

Yes. And I have.

 

Yeah, I kind of figure its designed for a diesel, it exceeds certain specs and as long as a person keeps it halfway clean should be fine i suppose. Where I live everyone is gaga over the shell rotella t and I really don't see the big deal to pay almost twice as much .

 

I would think cold flow would be a big selling point in your area, at least in the other half of the year.