my 2 cents, when i purchased my 66 250 4X4 , the rear axle was set up for a shortbox bed but still had the frame for the long box. originally was a flatbed with a pic and roll on it.i used a frame drill and moved the rear end back 7 1/2 inches and redrilled with 1/2 grade 8 bolts. i have put it through it's paces tin the last year, hillclimbing, camper hauling, and pasture driving with no roads. at this point there has not been an issue with the bolts, last time i checked the everything was still good. Dutch

 

Can't speak to replacing all rivets with bolts, but I replaced the frame crossmember brace rivets under the transmission to grade-8 bolts when I replaced the C6 auto. Note that the factory did the same - if you had a manual tranny then you got rivets in that crossmember brace, if you got a factory automatic then they put bolts in there (so you could service the auto transmission).

 

Were the persons giving advice professional frame builders? No professional builder does this. None. Please name a single reputable frame builder that uses this method of frame construction. Heidts? Chassis Engineering? Speedway? Industrial Chassis? No Limit Engineering?

Dutch, I clearly stated that bolting the suspension mount points is fine as it transfers the load to the rails. I have my hangers, transmission crossmembers bolted on also with grade eight hardware.

if you got a factory automatic then they put bolts in there. (only in 66. 65 they are all riveted.) All later 67 up recieved the bolted in tie member.

One has to remember when the advice is given and it fails you Are personally are liable even on the internet.

Garbz

 

I do not intend to argue with a grown man over the internet so please do not take any of this to heart sir. Just simply passing the advice I have been given and what I believe about this subject. Granite the advice I have been given has NOT been from any certified chassis builders so please take what I say for what its worth. The people who have given me this advice, who I have been around for the last 5 years and have built there own old cars/trucks for 30+ years so I take what they say with respect. I have even asked for advice on this matter over at the HAMB and the majority agree that it is fine for a street truck. Majority of the people over their have been around cars twice as long as I am old so I once again take what they say with respect. For a regular street driven truck I fully believe that bolting together the majority of the parts on a truck frame is ok. If there are (3) 1/2" thick grade 8's (sometimes 4 or more bolts even) in a single suspension component that is a 1 1/2"+ thick size grade 8. That is alot of strength that I believe will hold up just fine in a street truck. I will be bolting all of my suspension components, crossmembers, ect as seen in my thread of my build and I dont have enough doubt that I will be shearing any grade 5's or grade 8's while I have the possession of my truck to prevent me from doing this. As I stated before simply do your own research and take the advice and information you find to help make your decision. So to the original poster please do research on the matter and take whatever information you get and apply it to your decision. I wish the best of luck to you.

 

No heart taken, just trying to clarify. I agree with you on bolting components to the frame, I do this myself. The only area where we disagree is the actual frame itself.

I would recommend the original poster to pull it together with grade five bolts and full weld all the rails and previously riveted cross members in place. The grade five will allow a bit more stretch and flex over the grade eights.

I believe the gist of the fable would be is not to blow the original frame apart if it can be helped.

Garbz

 

Excellent point, Garbz.

I know a few 4X4 dudes that don't understand that reasoning to use grade 5 bolts instead of grade 8 bolts in some instances/applications.
Then they think they'd "so tough" because they keep breaking bolts........
BarnieTrk