Front inner axle seal replacement
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 9
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I checked out the pics you had posted. Awesome views! I am having some problems replacing the inner seal. When I place it into the housing it has about 3/16" play, (it is tight on the axle, but not in the housing). I looked all over the internet for a diagram to show how each part goes in because when I took it apart, there was no inner seal in there. (Bought the truck a few years ago. I have been having problems with the hub going bad. Didn't know it had an inner seal in there). Does the inner seal seat inside the housing without any play, and the outer seal rests against it? Just curious if I am doing something wrong or if there may be a problem. Can anyone help?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,667
Likes: 1
From: Glen Rose,Texas
Are talking about the inner seals that reside on each side of the pumpkin?If so,these seals keep the axle fluid from getting into the shaft housing.I had to remove the pumpkin to knock the old ones out and install the new seals.You can see in my pictures where they are located.If you are talking about the outer seals let me know.Those are easy and I can send you a different write up.
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
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I'm not talking about the pumpkin, I'm talking about the axle, spindle, housing.. that area. I have the inner seal.. that the parts place gave me, but I'm not sure why it is so tight sliding onto the axle and loose in the housing. I'm trying to figure out if there's a problem or if that's how it's suppose to fit.
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
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Maybe I can explain better, the inner seal that I have is labeled, FORSHEDA 52418. It's the exact seal that was in the 3rd picture riverrat41 posted last month. Is the picture that's there taken from the pumpkin side?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 13
From: Glendive, MT
Yes that pic is inside the pumpkin. Notice the pinion gear to the left of the seal? You have to pull both axles and remove the carrier to change that seal.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,667
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From: Glen Rose,Texas
HD Rider is right!That picture is from the inside with the carrier removed.Both axles have to be pulled,unbolt the carrier caps and pry out the carrier.We put the carrier on ice to make it easier to reinstall.When you have the new seals in and the carrier bolted back in there is a little trick to stabbing the longer shaft back through the new seal mouth.Be patient.That shaft is long and heavy,took two guys to stab that side because you have to hold the end of the shaft up so it will go in the mouth of the seal.
..Hope the new seals go in easier than mine did.The whole job was not bad but getting those new seals in straight with my homemade setting tool sucked
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,720
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Ok,, never done a truck before only cars.
How difficult is it to pull the "chunk" ring/gear and diff assembly from the housing. Do you need a case spreader to release the tension or will it just slide right out.
My theory.
"Nothing no matter how simple is simple or easy the first time,, nothing works as advertised".
Last week I was pulling the rear end from a snapper rider (commerical one) and the hub was suppose to just slide off. Right it slid off after my grinder cut 3 slots in it.
How difficult is it to pull the "chunk" ring/gear and diff assembly from the housing. Do you need a case spreader to release the tension or will it just slide right out.
My theory.
"Nothing no matter how simple is simple or easy the first time,, nothing works as advertised".
Last week I was pulling the rear end from a snapper rider (commerical one) and the hub was suppose to just slide off. Right it slid off after my grinder cut 3 slots in it.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,667
Likes: 1
From: Glen Rose,Texas
Youw will need a helper to pry or catch.Remove the carrier caps on both side.Use a pry bar on both sides of the carrier and pry it out.Once it is out,put it in the freezer or wrap in a trash bag and cover with ice.Makes for easier installation.