Electrical wiring advice
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Posting Guru
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From: Metro Detroit, MI.
Electrical wiring advice
I have posted here bucause it seems that no one ever goes to the electrical threads.
My project that I am working on the is the F-650 lower dash panel. As seen in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ash-panel.html
It is going good until now. I have started the wiring process and now I am stuck.
Brief breakdown of switches: (4 for now)Carling Tech SPST, on-off.
How many of the wires can I solder together?
ex: power to the switch, switched power supply, power into the dash illumination wire, and the grounds(two for each switch).
I dont want it to be a mess under the dash.
Thanks in advance.
Al
My project that I am working on the is the F-650 lower dash panel. As seen in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ash-panel.html
It is going good until now. I have started the wiring process and now I am stuck.
Brief breakdown of switches: (4 for now)Carling Tech SPST, on-off.
How many of the wires can I solder together?
ex: power to the switch, switched power supply, power into the dash illumination wire, and the grounds(two for each switch).
I dont want it to be a mess under the dash.
Thanks in advance.
Al
Last edited by officer131; Jan 17, 2010 at 12:37 PM. Reason: added info
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
All of them if you use a large enough wire. Being me, I would run the power wires through their own fuse, so if one fuse pops, the rest of the switches remain powered. The grounds and illum circuits are fairly low current so all of them together on say 16ga wire should be fine.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
I've though about how I typed that and the way the question was asked. You must run separate wires for switched power, constant power, ground and illum. You can take one large of each of the powers and reduce them down to individual wires with fuses. Then tie all of the illum together and all of the grounds together.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Metro Detroit, MI.
All of them if you use a large enough wire. Being me, I would run the power wires through their own fuse, so if one fuse pops, the rest of the switches remain powered.
The grounds and illum circuits are fairly low current so all of them together on say 16ga wire should be fine.
The grounds and illum circuits are fairly low current so all of them together on say 16ga wire should be fine.
I was think the same for the grounds and illumination wires. I Found my paper from the gauge package I purchased from ITP which was already pre assembled. It has four gauges, and there were only three wires to tap into another.
Now for the 16g wire. This wire would be coming from the power into the switch right? This would be split into four (in my case switches) wires with fuses then leading into the switch?
This would make the mess a little better
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Northern MN
Maybe you are already going to do this, but if you add an auxilary fuse block you would just have to run one power wire from either a switched circuit or constant power, which ever you want. It would also allow each of your switches to be on their own circuit and the fuses would all be in one place rather than somewhere along the line. Here is an example:
FUSE BLOCK 6-POSITION - JCWhitney
EH
FUSE BLOCK 6-POSITION - JCWhitney
EH
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
I would do something like a fuse block if the switch panel isn't already fused, Then I use 8ga for the constant power from the battery, fused at the battery and then again at the distribution point. 16ga wouldn't be a great choice if you don't plan on using relays after the switches. I'd say 12ga at a minimum if you're using short runs.
16ga would do for the illumination and ground wires, it's probably a little bigger than you need, but it's nice to go bigger.
16ga would do for the illumination and ground wires, it's probably a little bigger than you need, but it's nice to go bigger.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Metro Detroit, MI.
Well I think I might go the route of the added block fuse. I haven't fused any of the switches yet. The only things that are fused right now are the gauges. The only things that are soldered are the grounds.
I saw a block fuse at O'reilly, murray, or whatever they are called this week for a better price tag than $16.99. Thanks for the suggestion though.
This will be the step to gather all the information prior to installation. I might be able to clean up a little more underneath the dash if I got the add a block.
Since I'm a novice at automotive electrical. The current fuse box below the dash has a constant power source right, and then a switched power source?
If I got the fuse block addition then I would hook it up to the constant power supply? that way I can turn on and off the accesories.
sorry for all the questions, you guys are great.
Al
I saw a block fuse at O'reilly, murray, or whatever they are called this week for a better price tag than $16.99. Thanks for the suggestion though.
This will be the step to gather all the information prior to installation. I might be able to clean up a little more underneath the dash if I got the add a block.
Since I'm a novice at automotive electrical. The current fuse box below the dash has a constant power source right, and then a switched power source?
If I got the fuse block addition then I would hook it up to the constant power supply? that way I can turn on and off the accesories.
sorry for all the questions, you guys are great.
Al
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
No problem on the questions. There are reasons to tap the fuse box and reasons to pull directly from the battery. You can pick up noise or induce noise at the fuse box, going to the battery can reduce the likely hood and stock wiring has little overhead for extra amperage. If your not running anything sensitive or requiring much amperage the the fuse box is convenient.
The plus to running a new power wire would be the amperage you could supply, adding a relay would give you switched power with a lot amperage.
The plus to running a new power wire would be the amperage you could supply, adding a relay would give you switched power with a lot amperage.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Greensboro, NC
Go with the aux fuse box - there is plenty of room under the dash to mount it and gives you a great place to hook into when you add other things down the road. Incorrect wiring can be a major source of headaches - best to do it the right way now. Just a point of reference - when I got my boat the previous owner had apparently just found the first 12v and ground wires he could and then started piggy backing wires on it - no fuses, no switch.... can't believe it didn't burn or at least melt wires. It now has a fuse box which also came with a ground bar so hook ups and wire/fuse checks are extremely easy.
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Posting Guru
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From: Metro Detroit, MI.
I just purchased the aux box from www.wiringproducts.com .
10 position fuse add on. I think for the six switches eventually and some more to clean up under the dash.
10 position fuse add on. I think for the six switches eventually and some more to clean up under the dash.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Metro Detroit, MI.
I will breakdown the total bill once I am finished.
