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My 1976 F250 has always had some (rear) axle wrap, which I didn't worry about too much. Fairly common on these trucks, lift block and all..
I got my springs re-arched last summer, and while the ride height and load ability seem fine, in recent weeks the axle wrap has gotten so bad the yokes are binding when starting from a stop.
So, I'm looking at 4 possible solutions, and just would like some opinions.
1) New spring packs, to stock specifications.
2) Ladder bar setup
3) Single bars under housing to frame rail. (Clearance is not an issue, this truck isn't used for wheeling).
4) I have the chance to buy springs off a F450/F550. Are these compatible?
I'm planning on doing something like this. It gets rid of axle wrap and doesn't limit your off road ability. Anything else will make your ride stiff or kill your offroad flexiness. I guess it's best to weld your axletubes to the housing if you do this setup, which can be a complicated process.
Here's the link Anti wrap bar
While not the cheapest option i'd go for new springs 4" over stock spec and just delete the lift blocks altogether.
Why is this better than the stock configuration with minor modifications? I mean, the extra spring lengthe can't be good for this spring wrap issue can it? I have spring wrap issues as well, not as bad as the Op's, but if deleting the blocks and adding more arch to replacement springs is the answer...no problem, I'd do it in a heartbeat. It just goes against my knowledge\expierience with suspension systems. Ladder bars, etc were the answer on car's. I truely hope this opens a can of worms.. I allway's learn from disagreements\discusion and information from other experts. My issue is, on pavement I can fry positraction 33" tires on pavement, then I get spring wrap\wheel hop after a few feet. Before I go to a Toyota\Nissan\Isuzu truck pull, I'd like to get this fixed..
To Craigwell, I hope new answers suggest a fix for both of our problems.
Why is this better than the stock configuration with minor modifications?
I'm not claiming it would be "better" than the stock setup, i was just adressing the OP's issue with axle wrap and eliminating the 4" inch lift blocks would certainly help in that regard, granted it would make for a much stiffer ride but it would alleviate the axle wrap issue.
I'm not claiming it would be "better" than the stock setup, i was just adressing the OP's issue with axle wrap and eliminating the 4" inch lift blocks would certainly help in that regard, granted it would make for a much stiffer ride but it would alleviate the axle wrap issue.
montana, I'm not slamming your advice, I appreciate it, The OP and I have the same issue, I just cut and pasted your earlier responce and asked my question. I would think longer springs would amplify the spring wrap issue. If one removes the block, the spring has to become longer right? More flex in the springs comes to my mind.
To the OP\Craigwell, I did not mean to hijack your thread. I will start another thread with this same topic if you desire, but several people I know have the same problem with these high boy's. What is an easy\cheap way to minimize spring wrap on these trucks, inquiring mind's would like to know.
That is a decent "article" that is linked on that page you listed. Im no expert but from reading that.... the ladder bar setup is the way to go if your keeping the leafs.
Im sure its overkill but shouldn't there be on one each side of the axle though.....Or is that just my dealings in Air Suspension that have me thinking that.
To me it seems a single bar setup under the springs, (one each side) or the ladder bar setup is a good idea. 4 link is going too far, at least for my purposes.
The single bar under the springs might affect ground clearance a bit, but not enough to bother me - This truck carries construction materials, and it's used for snow plowing. It's already too stiff for anything off road.
I'm thinking any wider springs are going to cause problems for me with the stock lift blocks, which I want to retain.
That is a decent "article" that is linked on that page you listed. Im no expert but from reading that.... the ladder bar setup is the way to go if your keeping the leafs.
Im sure its overkill but shouldn't there be on one each side of the axle though.....Or is that just my dealings in Air Suspension that have me thinking that.
The goal of a single traction bar is to stop axle wrap while not limiting flex. You do need to tie into the other side of the axle by running a brace across or welding the axle tubes in, or both. It will only keep the axle from wrapping, but won't keep the axle from twisting longways. I don't think that would be a huge problem unless you're running a 500 hp and doing drag launches with your big 4x4 on a regular basis. The biggest problem is the axle wrapping.
montana, I'm not slamming your advice, I appreciate it, The OP and I have the same issue, I just cut and pasted your earlier responce and asked my question. I would think longer springs would amplify the spring wrap issue. If one removes the block, the spring has to become longer right? More flex in the springs comes to my mind.
I understand that, i'm not saying you're wrong and i'm right i'm just stating my opinion, if everyone agreed with everything nobody would learn anything, a healthy debate is never a bad thing, my only point is a 4" lift block greatly increases the leverage placed upon the axle and this added leverage contributes to and amplifies axle wrap, a longer spring won't completely eliminate axle wrap but it does remove the 4" lift block from the equation and the added leverage it brings therefore greatly decreasing axle wrap.
I am leaning towards a single bar under the springs on each side. In the meantime I'm adding a couple leafs to my current spring packs. That should take care of things for now.
I got my springs re-arched last summer, and while the ride height and load ability seem fine, in recent weeks the axle wrap has gotten so bad the yokes are binding when starting from a stop.
It's well after the fact but i'm just curious when your springs were re-arched was it done by "cold setting" them or through the annealing process? there's a huge difference in the results you can expect from the two methods...Rearching Services - Eaton Detroit Spring