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I got the dredded front end grind a week or so ago. Sounded like it was coming from the pass. side .... It was really cold for my area (about 15 deg) , so I un hooked the vac. hoses at the wheel and plugged them till warmer weather.
So yesturday after much reading on FTE, I tried to figure out what I needed. Here's the results
Both check valves are good.
ALL vac lines check good
Pulling 20-22 in vac at idle,, At each wheel at idle
The pass. side acctuator WILL hold vac on the gauge without leaking down ,but WILL NOT disengage all the way when jacked up and the tire is spun.
The driver side acctuator WILL hold vac on the gauge without leaking down, and WILL disengage when jacked up and the tire is spun.
So I thought I needed a accuator for the pass side,b/c thats where I thought the noise was coming from anyway. So I plugged the pass side and hooked the vac. line back to the driver side b/c it apeared to be working . ...WRONG.. it was grinding this morning going to work, so I had to go to work in 4x4(its only 2 miles)
Do I need both acctuators? Whats going on here ? I don't wanna just throw a bunch of money at it to fix it . But I'm tempted to just buy 2 acctuators and a new IWE solinoid WHAT TO DO? Help please
Alot of times the IWE's will engage/disengage, but they will not do so at the correct vacuum. They should engage at 8-10 in hg as well as disengage. If you are having to pump it up to anything over 10 in hg in order for it to disengage, the wheel end is faulty and needs replacing.
If you do replace one, do the other side. If one is failing, the other is right behind it. You will also want to inspect the gears on wheel bearing for damage or stripped gears. A check valve fails going to the 4x4 solenoid and causes the gears that mesh between the wheel end and wheel bearing to strip....
Alot of times the IWE's will engage/disengage, but they will not do so at the correct vacuum. They should engage at 8-10 in hg as well as disengage. If you are having to pump it up to anything over 10 in hg in order for it to disengage, the wheel end is faulty and needs replacing.
If you do replace one, do the other side. If one is failing, the other is right behind it. You will also want to inspect the gears on wheel bearing for damage or stripped gears. A check valve fails going to the 4x4 solenoid and causes the gears that mesh between the wheel end and wheel bearing to strip....
Makes sence..Is this common at only 37,000 miles? Should I replace the solenoid on the firewall too? I know the old design is prone to fail.
Thanks ,Billy
The new solenoid is only 18 bucks.....so i'd do it if you were replacing wheel ends.....Just make sure they get you the motorcraft part with the cover on it....as they still sell the old part too...