Can anyone tell me howw to top off the fuild/ gearoil in a 9" rear end... Could this be the orig. Even better, how do I change the seal with a new one...



Thank you.

P.S this is on a 67 f100, 300" il6

 

Justin there is a plug on the back side of the housing. If you can touch oil with youe little finger through the hole, there is enough in there.
You pour it in till it runs out, and put the plug back in.

As far as the seal, if you are referring to the one on the front. Remove the drive shaft, be careful with your movements and the covers on the U joint. I put a piece of wire arount the chassis and moved the shaft over and tied it up while working on my rear. Pull the wheels and drums, and through the hole in the axle find and remove the four bolts/nuts, and pull the axles out a couple of in. Take the 10 or so bolts out and pull the center out. This puppy is heavy, be careful. It will be a good time to remove all of the old oil, mop it clean in there, with gas or other solvent. Place the new paper thin gasket on, and reverse the order. You will need three qt. of 90 wt. gear oil, for the refill.

I hope that is the seal that you were referring to.

Good luck

John

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.

 

There are five seals used on the standard 9in Ford axle. There are two shaft seals (one for each axle). One pinion shaft seal (behind the driveline yolk). One O-ring that seals the pinion retainer to the carrier. And one carrier to housing gasket that jowilker is talking about.

Tell us which seal is leaking so that we don't have to write a whole book here.

 

Sorry for the run around, I just wanted to know if the 9" is a better application than the 10bolt. the main purpose differances and such. Why one over the other. I intend to use it on a 67 f100 now with a 300 il6 going to a 289 cid v8 and the 3spd man. trans. Is this a good rear end for daily driving and some hauling.


As much info as possible would be nice. Thank you

 

I don't know much about the 10 bolt rear except that it is a Chevy axle; however there are probably more 9in Fords bolted behind hot-rod Fords, Dodges, and Chevys than any other axle. A stock 9in. should survive just fine under a stock half-ton pickup since that is what it was designed for. But if you start to add larger tires, a stronger engine, or frequently overload the truck, you better start thinking of upgrades for the 9in. Stronger housings, nodular iron carriers, 31 or 35 spline axle shafts with larger bearings, and a large selection of differentials and gears are all popular upgrades. What I like the best about it is that it is easy to work on. Just remove the carrier, and all the work can be done on the bench rather than under the truck.

The special tools you may need are:
Torque wrench 10-100 ft.-lb.
Torque wrench that will read 8-32 in.-lb. to measure pinion bearing preload.
Spanner wrench to adjust differential bearings.
Driveline yolk puller (some are tight).
Dial indicator to set backlash.
2-ton press if you change bearings.
A book with procedures and torque specifications.


I have always been able to get shims, crush sleeves, bearings, and seals that same day at my local NAPA.