Original Motor?
Original Motor?
Was looking at some numbers on my block and heads...
Truck is a 1970 F100 4x2 with FE-360.
Identification tag says truck was made in Sept. 1969
On the front driver's side of block has the numbers 67 and below that 352.
On one of the heads it has C8AE-H cast on top between the center exhaust ports, and between center rocker arms another number cast into the head says 9M8
I believe the C8 indicates 1968 but am unsure what the other numbers mean?
Trying to determine if this is the original motor that came in this truck... I have reason to believe that it is original, but would like to confirm if possible.
Also is this a good reliable motor?
Anybody know what the oem specs were for the cam?
Are aftermarket heads available for this motor?
Sorry about the twenty questions
Any input would be appreciated
Thanks, Scott
Truck is a 1970 F100 4x2 with FE-360.
Identification tag says truck was made in Sept. 1969
On the front driver's side of block has the numbers 67 and below that 352.
On one of the heads it has C8AE-H cast on top between the center exhaust ports, and between center rocker arms another number cast into the head says 9M8
I believe the C8 indicates 1968 but am unsure what the other numbers mean?
Trying to determine if this is the original motor that came in this truck... I have reason to believe that it is original, but would like to confirm if possible.
Also is this a good reliable motor?
Anybody know what the oem specs were for the cam?
Are aftermarket heads available for this motor?
Sorry about the twenty questions

Any input would be appreciated
Thanks, Scott
Original Motor?
The C8AE-H casting code would indicate a 360/390 head. The C8 means that it was released from engineering in 1968. It does not mean that it is a head produced in 1968. That head would have been used on several years and for a few models.
I don't know whether its the original engine or not....but from what you stated, your engine sounds like it's the "correct" one in which should be installed in your truck.
The engine should give you years of reliable service assuming its in good condition now and you continue to maintain it. Aftermarket goodies are available. This engine falls in the FE family and there are some aftermarket heads which might bolt on, but there are none I'm aware of that are specifically designed for the 360. If performance is your goal then consider cam and intake. These options usually equal bolt on horsepower.
<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>
I don't know whether its the original engine or not....but from what you stated, your engine sounds like it's the "correct" one in which should be installed in your truck.
The engine should give you years of reliable service assuming its in good condition now and you continue to maintain it. Aftermarket goodies are available. This engine falls in the FE family and there are some aftermarket heads which might bolt on, but there are none I'm aware of that are specifically designed for the 360. If performance is your goal then consider cam and intake. These options usually equal bolt on horsepower.
<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>
Original Motor?
That 9M8 cast into your head indicates a build date of Dec. 8,69. Check your window glass date codes to verify your build date. They are under that 'carlite' lettering in the corners. Your date codes should be a letter 'g', 'h', or 'j' with a number '9' to indicate a build date of sept. 69, or thereabouts.
Original Motor?
MK Keep in mind that the date on the glass, like the engine, is the date the part was made. Then shipped the the assembly plant, and put in line to be used.
I am saying, it could be good for matching componants, but not build dates.
John
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
I am saying, it could be good for matching componants, but not build dates.
John
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
Original Motor?
I understand your point, John.
The date codes on parts are generally within a couple of months of the actual build date and that is why I said the month codes could be 'g'-July, 'h'-August or 'j'-September, if the actual build date was September.( Ford didn't use 'i','o' or 'q' in their date codes). To truly verify the production date of the engine, one should also find the block date code, which should be near the casting number. There's always the possibility the block could be original with someone having put newer heads on it.
The date codes on parts are generally within a couple of months of the actual build date and that is why I said the month codes could be 'g'-July, 'h'-August or 'j'-September, if the actual build date was September.( Ford didn't use 'i','o' or 'q' in their date codes). To truly verify the production date of the engine, one should also find the block date code, which should be near the casting number. There's always the possibility the block could be original with someone having put newer heads on it.
Original Motor?
Most of what you asked has been addressed. The 352 appears on virtually every FE motor be it a 59 332 or a 69 428SCJ. As far as aftermarket heads, I have seen advertisements for Edelbrock Aluminum heads for FE's. I have heard it said that FE heads run kinda hot. Unless they have had hardened exhaust valve seats put in (not stock) unleaded gas will cause the heads to run hot. Personally I had stock FE castings restored and assembled by a machine shop (w/ hardened seats). The speed shop I have been getting advise from sells Edelbrock but does not give their heads a great endorsement. Its not that they don't flow well, it's that the shop thinks they cut corners regarding quality control. The stock numbers for a 360 (68-76) is .247" lift at intake lifter .427" at intake valve, .249" at exhaust lifter, .431" at exhaust valve. The book doesn't give any more info than that. Comp Cams 268H seems to be a popular selection. I was pointed that way by my shop (one of his employees also is building a 390) and seen several people here say they use them. I am about to install Crane adjustable rockers (and special beefy pushrods that go with them). I have either a couple of problem pushrods and or oil pressure problems at the lifters. I felt like spending some extra money to get around the arcane rocker system with no adjustment. Have you determined that you have a 360 crank? 360 cranks should be marked with either 2T or 2TA. A 2U, 3U, 2UA, would be a 390 crank (there are other 390 castings from cars that had 390's in the 60's) There are only two connecting rod lengths used in FE (and FT) motors. Long rod: 332,352,361,360,6.540". Short rod: 390,406,410,427,428, 6.488".
Have fun, BBT
Have fun, BBT




