brake system
New User
Joined: Oct 1999
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brake system
Hey guys, just like to say I've had a few of these problems myself. I went all through every component in my brake system on my 79 F250 4X4 and it ended up being the proportioning valve. I went to my local junk yard for it because Ford wanted a small fortune for it. It has worked ever since. Just my solution. NB
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Indiana
brake system
Matt, I don't mean to sound smart but I assume you adjusted the rear brake shoes properly, if they are not run out good the brake pedal will go to the floor, and your front brakes will be doing all the work. If you have them adjusted properly I'd try the suggestion about adjusting the actuating rod that pushs the master cylinder. Sometimes people fiddle with these when they change a master cylinder and get them out of adjustment. A way I was taught to check the proportioning valve is to push on the brake pedal with the engine running you will feel a bump in the pedal after pushing it down a little ways, you may have to do it several times to get the feel of it. If you feel the bump the valve is supposed to be good.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 1999
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brake system
Well, I have the rears adjusted so that the drums BARELY come off without un-adjusting them. I was told that was the proper way to do it. (by 2 generations of drum brake people..uncles!)
Otherwise, I probably do have to adjust that rod a little bit. I have about 1" of resistance free travel to the pedal before it touches anything, then another 2" of travel before it seems to really do anything..
Matt
(brakes are taking second priority right now, they work good enough. I need to swap engines so I can rebuild this one.. After it warms up I have almost zero oil pressure and one hell of a lifter knock, so I might as well just rebuild it..)
Otherwise, I probably do have to adjust that rod a little bit. I have about 1" of resistance free travel to the pedal before it touches anything, then another 2" of travel before it seems to really do anything..
Matt
(brakes are taking second priority right now, they work good enough. I need to swap engines so I can rebuild this one.. After it warms up I have almost zero oil pressure and one hell of a lifter knock, so I might as well just rebuild it..)
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 1999
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brake system
>You should put a vacuum gauge into
>the booster line to make sure
>the motor has sufficient vacuum.
I have no less than 17" of vacuum at idle..
i have been paying attention to the rest of your guys' suggestions, however it's benn about 5° F outside and havent bee n able to do much..
matt
>the booster line to make sure
>the motor has sufficient vacuum.
I have no less than 17" of vacuum at idle..
i have been paying attention to the rest of your guys' suggestions, however it's benn about 5° F outside and havent bee n able to do much..
matt
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brake system
MATT,
I HAD A SIMILIAR PROBLEM WITH THE BRAKES ON MY '79 F250. TURN OUT TO BE A COMBINATION OF PROBLEMS. ONE WAS BRAKE ADJUSTMENT AS MENTION BY OTHER FOLKS, BUT I ALSO HAD A WITH THE RUBBER BOOT UNDER THE MC LID. HOPE YOU FIND AN ANSWER.
DAVID
79 F250 4X4
I HAD A SIMILIAR PROBLEM WITH THE BRAKES ON MY '79 F250. TURN OUT TO BE A COMBINATION OF PROBLEMS. ONE WAS BRAKE ADJUSTMENT AS MENTION BY OTHER FOLKS, BUT I ALSO HAD A WITH THE RUBBER BOOT UNDER THE MC LID. HOPE YOU FIND AN ANSWER.
DAVID
79 F250 4X4
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brake system
Boy, Matt you've got a ton of advice here-- all good. Let me add 5 more pounds. when you adjust the brakes before bleeding wind them up tight so there is no movement at all when you pump them. I've done this when all else fails and sometimes this works. Good luck if you haven't solved the problem yet.
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