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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 09:36 AM
  #1  
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lash

I have a chattering noise coming from under one of the valve covers. I need to know how to set the lash and without knowing the year of my engine how can I tell if its mechanical or hydrolic? Thanks
 
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 11:08 AM
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lash

Which motor do you have?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 12:33 PM
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lash

Sometimes I can be real stupid, its a 390 of unknown year.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 01:31 PM
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lash

Only a couple 390's had adjustable rockers. These were very early 1960 models installed in full size cars. One had about 375 hp, and the other had about 401 hp.
Anyway, chances are your 390 has non-adjustable rockers. To change lash, you'll need aftermarket pushrods that are slightly longer than stock. Or you can convert it with adjustable rockers.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 10:26 PM
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lash

joey, are you willing to bet money that it is valve train lash noise, or are guessing?


John

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 10:32 PM
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lash

I just put adjustable rockers on my 390. I bought Crane rockers, and pushrods and had to get tall valve covers. I'm into them for about $400. If you don't have adjustable rockers, you have hydraulic Lifters (assumming someone hasn't put aftermarket stuff on like I just did). I still haven't been able to adjust out all the clatter. I think there are some oil pressure issues in the lifters that will prevent me from getting rid of all of the noise. Without adjustable rockers it's over and undersized pushrods. Can you run your engine with the valve cover(s) off and listen with a piece of vaccuum or fuel hose (like a stethyscope) to the tops of the valve stems where the rocker pushes and find specifically noisy rocker/valve clacking? If you can figure out specifically where your clatter is coming from, you might be able to swap in a bigger pushrod, I'd be wanting to know before going through the hassle of pulling and retorqueing the rocker shafts. Do you have a lot of wear on your lifters/camlobes? Theoretically, with a lifter removal tool (and no butterfingers) you can remove lifters without removing the intake manifold. I have new lifters and cam (2 monthes). I will say that with the adjustable rockers, the job of installing the rocker shafts onto the heads became much easier.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2000 | 10:55 PM
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lash

I was just guessing. Ill pull the valve cover tomorrow and see if thats where its coming from. Somethings chattering over there.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2000 | 07:38 AM
  #8  
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lash

joey, the reason for the prior question, is the FE (Ford Edsel) engine is nortorious for wrist pin slap. It'll first sound like a lifter ticking and after a few years of doing this, a loud lifter ticking. The motor will run a long time like this.

John

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2000 | 04:28 AM
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lash

How would you diagnose the wrist pin slap? I think I have lifter oiling problems because it comes and goes depending on engine temp, and load. I am not hearing any specific rockers clacking against valve stems. I was looking at the routing of the lifter galleys and it looks like the front lifters get their oil last. I hear more noise toward the front. I have very little insulation in my cab and the firewall holes and clutch rod hole are exposed, so I can hear a lot of engine noises. I was thinking that I might be hearing a little bit of brake drum scuffing noise while the truck is rolling and attributing it to the engine. And my clutch inspection cover is off and I have a fairly worn clutch. I know I have a poor throwout bearing. The wrist pin idea is new to me, I haven't ever talked with anyone about this.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2000 | 01:06 AM
  #10  
Joe Burdick
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lash

The fuel pumps can be noisy and sound like wrist pins or liters listen to it with a piece of hose or engine stephecope try a can of rislone you may have a collapsed lifter it often works good for this. always try what doesnt cost much first. go here for way to check valve push rod and lifter preload a good article the fuel pump noise is normal just a little irritating.

<a href="https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/pushrods.html">https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/pushrods.html</a>

 
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Old Jan 9, 2000 | 08:11 AM
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lash

Joe, You like that stethoscope thingie, do you? Have you ever noticed one in a garage, that wasn't covered with dust? Have you gone to a garage and seen all the technicions walking around like nurses, with their stethoscopes on?

My old red 66 has one of them, talking 352s in it. If you would like to earn some money, I'll pay you $500.00 to listen to and tell me where the noise is coming from. I have been under, over, and around that engine with that hearing aid, and it doesn't seem to matter where I put it, the noise is the same.

John

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2000 | 12:17 PM
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lash

Very funny that you say that, jowilker, because I bought a stethascope yesterday to see if I could find the noise but All I hear is the same little whisper no matter where I but it. Worst money I ever spent. Oh well, live and learn.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2000 | 12:26 PM
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lash

Stethoscopes are just like many other tools in the box. Helpful, but not the "end-all" to end all other tools. Engine diagnosis is much of an art and science. The more you do it the better you get. You have to know a little in order to learn a lot (learn to walk before you run if you prefer). Like all things...a little knowledge can be dangerous. Don't fall prey to jumping to conclusions. Sound diagnosis is a process of elimination. Anything else and your just a parts replacin' fool who may stumble upon the fix or perhaps may not.

<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>
 
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Old Jan 9, 2000 | 12:35 PM
  #14  
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lash

TB if you can make it out of the door before you find that the $375.00 repair didn't fix the problem, they'll try to convince you that the part was bad, and it needed to be replaced anyway.

I have a sister that just went through with that with her Maxima. Three trips and $1400.00 to fix the problem.


John

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2000 | 12:50 PM
  #15  
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lash

Yes I understand what happens at many "repair facilities" but that doesn't mean we have to subscribe to the same practices. Time and money being what they are...an accurate diagnosis will save both. I realize it's easier said than done.


<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>
 
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