old hydraulic plow question
Reason I ask is the tank appears to have transmission fluid in it....have been told it would "work" but not the best. My plow works awesome cold, but once warm it slows way down to a crawl

Was thinking of picking up some "universal hydraulic fluid" like what you would find in tractors, but don't want to have the same issues I'm having now.
Any suggestions/input would be GREATLY appreciated!!
ALSO: what would be the best way to drain all the old fluid out without hurting the pump system?
As always, TIA
The difference, alcohol in the fluid to keep any moisture in the fluid from freezing in the filters.
About the only way is drain the tank, lift cylinder all the way down, and remove the hoses from the angle cylinders and compress them all the way.
You won't get all the fluid out, but you will get enough that you should not have any problems.
Where is the tank loacated?
The tank itself is part of the belt driven pump, mounted on the engine right above the power steering pump.
I'll see about getting the Meyers fluid, just tired of this thing being slow once the truck warms up lol
Checking Oil Level
Use a standard drinking straw or popsicle stick to check your fluid level. Remove the filler cap and dip the straw into the fluid reservoir. Always check fluid level with the lift piston fully retracted. The fluid level should be 1-1/2” below the filler hole. If your fluid is low or appears excessively dirty, refer to your owners manual for instructions on filling and changing your hydraulic fluid. Only use Meyer Hydraulic M-1 Fluid.
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But then that fluid is more for the pumps mounted out on the front of the truck, not belt driven pumps in the engine bay.
Even when you are working those front mounted pumps rather hard, they may be warmer than the outside air temp, but not much.
Those pumps only work when you are moving the blade left or right or lifting the blade.
The engine mounted pump is going to be pumping fluid constantly, and doing it near a much warmer engine.
And from the description given I am thinking power steering pump.
Some of those old municipal plow trucks used a pump like you would see on a PTO driven dump bed, but mounted it on the engine with an AC compressor type clutch to engage or disengage the pump, and still had hydraulic fluid tanks mounted on the frame as reservoirs.
They used hydraulically driven salt spreaders, blades and even used the same pump to drive the dump bed cylinders.
In those systems, the system heat will be much higher, which may be why his blade is slowing down after several hours of plowing.
And I never really started thinking about those systems until after I posted my reply above.
Hydraulic hoses inside the cab, valves like you would find on an old backhoe with levers operating the valves and hoses running from the valves out to each cylinder from the valve bank in the cab.
More hoses and variable flow rate valves to control the feed chain and spinner speed on the salt spreaders.
I did see in another thread his truck is an old municipal plow truck, so his plow may be far from a standard Meyers plow setup you would normally see on a pickup.
From the literature I did find, the only spec given on the hydraulic system was 2500 PSI max working pressure.
And when you start thinking about a hose right beside you in the drivers seat with 2500 PSI hydraulic fluid in it....can we say hot oil bath?
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Some of those old municipal plow trucks used a pump like you would see on a PTO driven dump bed, but mounted it on the engine with an AC compressor type clutch to engage or disengage the pump, and still had hydraulic fluid tanks mounted on the frame as reservoirs.
clutch on a plow pump
i never knew that i have a 79 1 ton cheby that needs a pump
sounds great where could you get something like that
Like I said in the bottom line though, 2500 PSI hydraulic fluid hoses in the cab with you is not a real great idea.
That is enough pressure to hurt you if a hose blows when the plow hits something.
Even if the pressure didn't get you, the hot fluid would burn you if any fluid landed on you.
With some of the solenoid operated valves you can buy today, you could keep the valves and hoses out of the cab though, but the cost would go up rather fast.
Still cheap when you think about a hot oil bath and related mess though.







