old hydraulic plow question
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 91
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From: South Haven, MI.
old hydraulic plow question
Have always had Western electric over hydraulic plows where the fluid went into the lift pump, but now I have a Meyers hydraulic plow (with the hyd pump/tank combo) and was wondering what I should use for hydraulic fluid?
Reason I ask is the tank appears to have transmission fluid in it....have been told it would "work" but not the best. My plow works awesome cold, but once warm it slows way down to a crawl
Was thinking of picking up some "universal hydraulic fluid" like what you would find in tractors, but don't want to have the same issues I'm having now.
Any suggestions/input would be GREATLY appreciated!!
ALSO: what would be the best way to drain all the old fluid out without hurting the pump system?
As always, TIA
Reason I ask is the tank appears to have transmission fluid in it....have been told it would "work" but not the best. My plow works awesome cold, but once warm it slows way down to a crawl
Was thinking of picking up some "universal hydraulic fluid" like what you would find in tractors, but don't want to have the same issues I'm having now.
Any suggestions/input would be GREATLY appreciated!!
ALSO: what would be the best way to drain all the old fluid out without hurting the pump system?
As always, TIA
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Use Meyers snow plow fluid, blue in color.
The difference, alcohol in the fluid to keep any moisture in the fluid from freezing in the filters.
About the only way is drain the tank, lift cylinder all the way down, and remove the hoses from the angle cylinders and compress them all the way.
You won't get all the fluid out, but you will get enough that you should not have any problems.
Where is the tank loacated?
The difference, alcohol in the fluid to keep any moisture in the fluid from freezing in the filters.
About the only way is drain the tank, lift cylinder all the way down, and remove the hoses from the angle cylinders and compress them all the way.
You won't get all the fluid out, but you will get enough that you should not have any problems.
Where is the tank loacated?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 91
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From: South Haven, MI.
Hi Dave -
The tank itself is part of the belt driven pump, mounted on the engine right above the power steering pump.
I'll see about getting the Meyers fluid, just tired of this thing being slow once the truck warms up lol
The tank itself is part of the belt driven pump, mounted on the engine right above the power steering pump.
I'll see about getting the Meyers fluid, just tired of this thing being slow once the truck warms up lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
It sounds to me your pump is getting tired. Once warm the viscosity is to thin for the pump to keep up flow and pressure. You can try Lucas oil stabalizer or Lucas p/s additive to hold off a rebuild. To know for sure test the pressure at the line cold than compare to warm to see the difference.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
I found this on Myers page........
Checking Oil Level
Use a standard drinking straw or popsicle stick to check your fluid level. Remove the filler cap and dip the straw into the fluid reservoir. Always check fluid level with the lift piston fully retracted. The fluid level should be 1-1/2” below the filler hole. If your fluid is low or appears excessively dirty, refer to your owners manual for instructions on filling and changing your hydraulic fluid. Only use Meyer Hydraulic M-1 Fluid.
Checking Oil Level
Use a standard drinking straw or popsicle stick to check your fluid level. Remove the filler cap and dip the straw into the fluid reservoir. Always check fluid level with the lift piston fully retracted. The fluid level should be 1-1/2” below the filler hole. If your fluid is low or appears excessively dirty, refer to your owners manual for instructions on filling and changing your hydraulic fluid. Only use Meyer Hydraulic M-1 Fluid.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 334
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From: McFarland, WI
Im using ATF in mine. work warm. works cold. Im sure that hydraulic fluid would be just as good if not better. good luck
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
I don't think you need to buy Meyers specific hydraulic fluid. Buy any cold weather hydraulic fluid and you're fine. If it's your pump, get the number off of it and look it up on the internet. Write down the specs and then buy an equivalent pump w/ the same fittings and mounting setup and you should be good to go. Hydraulics are hydraulics. Hydraulics - Grainger Industrial Supply
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
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From: Faibanks Ak.
It sounds as if the atf is breaking down with heat. On our side dumps if we are dumping loads every 10 minutes or less we have to have larger tanks so the oil has more time to cool down. If you have trouble after to hydraulic oil you might try shielding it from motor heat, just a thought.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
The only benefit to the Meyers oil is the alcohol in the fluid that stops water from forming ice in the filter at cold temps.
But then that fluid is more for the pumps mounted out on the front of the truck, not belt driven pumps in the engine bay.
Even when you are working those front mounted pumps rather hard, they may be warmer than the outside air temp, but not much.
Those pumps only work when you are moving the blade left or right or lifting the blade.
The engine mounted pump is going to be pumping fluid constantly, and doing it near a much warmer engine.
And from the description given I am thinking power steering pump.
Some of those old municipal plow trucks used a pump like you would see on a PTO driven dump bed, but mounted it on the engine with an AC compressor type clutch to engage or disengage the pump, and still had hydraulic fluid tanks mounted on the frame as reservoirs.
They used hydraulically driven salt spreaders, blades and even used the same pump to drive the dump bed cylinders.
In those systems, the system heat will be much higher, which may be why his blade is slowing down after several hours of plowing.
And I never really started thinking about those systems until after I posted my reply above.
Hydraulic hoses inside the cab, valves like you would find on an old backhoe with levers operating the valves and hoses running from the valves out to each cylinder from the valve bank in the cab.
More hoses and variable flow rate valves to control the feed chain and spinner speed on the salt spreaders.
I did see in another thread his truck is an old municipal plow truck, so his plow may be far from a standard Meyers plow setup you would normally see on a pickup.
From the literature I did find, the only spec given on the hydraulic system was 2500 PSI max working pressure.
And when you start thinking about a hose right beside you in the drivers seat with 2500 PSI hydraulic fluid in it....can we say hot oil bath?
But then that fluid is more for the pumps mounted out on the front of the truck, not belt driven pumps in the engine bay.
Even when you are working those front mounted pumps rather hard, they may be warmer than the outside air temp, but not much.
Those pumps only work when you are moving the blade left or right or lifting the blade.
The engine mounted pump is going to be pumping fluid constantly, and doing it near a much warmer engine.
And from the description given I am thinking power steering pump.
Some of those old municipal plow trucks used a pump like you would see on a PTO driven dump bed, but mounted it on the engine with an AC compressor type clutch to engage or disengage the pump, and still had hydraulic fluid tanks mounted on the frame as reservoirs.
They used hydraulically driven salt spreaders, blades and even used the same pump to drive the dump bed cylinders.
In those systems, the system heat will be much higher, which may be why his blade is slowing down after several hours of plowing.
And I never really started thinking about those systems until after I posted my reply above.
Hydraulic hoses inside the cab, valves like you would find on an old backhoe with levers operating the valves and hoses running from the valves out to each cylinder from the valve bank in the cab.
More hoses and variable flow rate valves to control the feed chain and spinner speed on the salt spreaders.
I did see in another thread his truck is an old municipal plow truck, so his plow may be far from a standard Meyers plow setup you would normally see on a pickup.
From the literature I did find, the only spec given on the hydraulic system was 2500 PSI max working pressure.
And when you start thinking about a hose right beside you in the drivers seat with 2500 PSI hydraulic fluid in it....can we say hot oil bath?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 780
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From: merrimack valley
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Some of those old municipal plow trucks used a pump like you would see on a PTO driven dump bed, but mounted it on the engine with an AC compressor type clutch to engage or disengage the pump, and still had hydraulic fluid tanks mounted on the frame as reservoirs.
clutch on a plow pump
i never knew that i have a 79 1 ton cheby that needs a pump
sounds great where could you get something like that
.
Some of those old municipal plow trucks used a pump like you would see on a PTO driven dump bed, but mounted it on the engine with an AC compressor type clutch to engage or disengage the pump, and still had hydraulic fluid tanks mounted on the frame as reservoirs.
clutch on a plow pump
i never knew that i have a 79 1 ton cheby that needs a pump
sounds great where could you get something like that
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Today I am going to say have a pump shaft adapter made at a machine shop so you can mount an AC clutch on the pump shaft and make some mounting brackets so it can be driven off of one of the engine belts.
Like I said in the bottom line though, 2500 PSI hydraulic fluid hoses in the cab with you is not a real great idea.
That is enough pressure to hurt you if a hose blows when the plow hits something.
Even if the pressure didn't get you, the hot fluid would burn you if any fluid landed on you.
With some of the solenoid operated valves you can buy today, you could keep the valves and hoses out of the cab though, but the cost would go up rather fast.
Still cheap when you think about a hot oil bath and related mess though.
Like I said in the bottom line though, 2500 PSI hydraulic fluid hoses in the cab with you is not a real great idea.
That is enough pressure to hurt you if a hose blows when the plow hits something.
Even if the pressure didn't get you, the hot fluid would burn you if any fluid landed on you.
With some of the solenoid operated valves you can buy today, you could keep the valves and hoses out of the cab though, but the cost would go up rather fast.
Still cheap when you think about a hot oil bath and related mess though.