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#30 fuse keeps blowing!!

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  #31  
Old 04-15-2010, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cowboylelle
Hi there!
Thanks everyone for the inputs!! Since I have (or maybe should I say had) the same problem, I found the connector on the back side of the diesel filter cup and unplugged it. After that it seems as if the problem with fuse 30 blowing disappeared. The question I have is that there are two cables going to the same harness: The red/lt green one for the heater and then a wht/red one. Question is what is that one for? Can I just leave the connector unplugged or do I actually need to cut the red/light green cable and put the connector back?

Regards from Sweden.
Welcome to FTE.
That other wire is for the water in fuel light.
 
  #32  
Old 04-15-2010, 08:42 AM
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Thanks so much! So maybe the optimal thing here is to put the connector back, take out the diesel filter and remove the actual heater device in the bottom of the bowl? In that way I save my #30 fuse, while at the same time keep my "water in fuel" functionality? Right?
Best regards,
Lennart
 
  #33  
Old 04-15-2010, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cowboylelle
Thanks so much! So maybe the optimal thing here is to put the connector back, take out the diesel filter and remove the actual heater device in the bottom of the bowl? In that way I save my #30 fuse, while at the same time keep my "water in fuel" functionality? Right?
Best regards,
Lennart
That's right. Someone on here had a some good pics on how to replace the heater, maybe they will post the procedure up for you.
 
  #34  
Old 04-15-2010, 08:59 AM
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Here you go, I found it. LINK. Look at Brandon's posts.
 
  #35  
Old 04-15-2010, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cowboylelle
Thanks so much! So maybe the optimal thing here is to put the connector back, take out the diesel filter and remove the actual heater device in the bottom of the bowl? In that way I save my #30 fuse, while at the same time keep my "water in fuel" functionality? Right?
Best regards,
Lennart
The fuel bowl heater holds the check valve tower in the center of the fuel bowl in place so it can not be totally eliminated. You could drain the bowl, remove the filter and pull the heater's spade connector from the electrical post. I would probably take some wire cutters and snip the heater's pigtail off if I knew the heater was bad just to make sure that it did not move around and accidentally make contact.

I have some pics of the heater and electrical connectors in my fuel bowl rebuild how-to in my mods & maintenance site that may make it a little clearer.
 
  #36  
Old 04-15-2010, 10:50 AM
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Again many thanks Miller_feed and Guzzle! Found the pictures from Brandon. However I couldn't access your webpage Guzzle? Got a "Forbidden" message. Maybe it is because I'm from Sweden :-)
 
  #37  
Old 04-15-2010, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cowboylelle
Again many thanks Miller_feed and Guzzle! Found the pictures from Brandon. However I couldn't access your webpage Guzzle? Got a "Forbidden" message. Maybe it is because I'm from Sweden :-)
Yea, sorry about that but most of the European IP's are blocked simply because of all the hacking attempts that I get from there, Asia and especially China.
 
  #38  
Old 04-16-2010, 12:08 AM
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Hi again! Starting to get a bit worried that the heater is not the cause of the fuse blowing in my case: Reason for my worries is that my truck stopped (and fuse 30 died) while I was driving, while for all the other guys I read about it seems to have happened during starting. So the question is if anybody knows when that heater is supposed to be on? Always? When it is cold? Only when you start? If I look at a wiring diagram it seems to be always on. Also when I Ohm it it there seems to be a direct connection between the heater and the fuse?
 
  #39  
Old 04-16-2010, 12:42 AM
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Have unplugged the bowl heater yet?
 
  #40  
Old 04-16-2010, 12:59 AM
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IIRC the fuel bowl heater is always on. Disconnect like Dan suggests and see if that fixes it for you, as I think it will. Here is a link for a new heater.

DieselOrings.com : Fuel Bowel Heater - Aftermarket

DieselOrings.com : Fuel Bowel Heater - OEM
 
  #41  
Old 04-16-2010, 01:41 AM
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Hi and thanks! Yes, I have unplugged and no, it hasn't happened again since then. Reason for asking is that I wanted to be confident that this is the fix, because the feeling of the truck "dying" in 60 mph with two horses in the trailer is not something I would like to experience again... Anyway, after the very supportive answers I got I now am confident that this is the fix.
 
  #42  
Old 04-16-2010, 06:23 AM
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After looking at those pictures, the next time I change out the fuel filter, I am simply going to remove my bowl heater and toss it in the trash.
I still have the old style bare wire heater.
Hasn't failed me yet, but if it is on 100% duty cycle, I don't like that idea. It's out of there.
 
  #43  
Old 04-16-2010, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cowboylelle
Again many thanks Miller_feed and Guzzle! Found the pictures from Brandon. However I couldn't access your webpage Guzzle? Got a "Forbidden" message. Maybe it is because I'm from Sweden :-)
If you can't access Guzzle's you can use this one if it helps.

Riffraff Diesel: Fuel Bowl Heater Element
 
  #44  
Old 04-16-2010, 10:28 AM
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Fuse #30 heater fuse blows!

We seem to have an inherent design problem in the Fuel heater design. The fuel heater is fed from the same power source that also feeds vital engine devices. It seems to me that if we were to resource the the power to the fuel heater relay, and use a separate relay to control the heater curcuit. That way if and when the heater fails, it would only blow the fuse that powers the heater and nothing else.
Comments?
 
  #45  
Old 04-16-2010, 10:40 AM
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Since the heater is constant on with the ignition on, shouldn't be too hard to put in a seperate relay and fuse. If it becomes an issue then it can be disabled without shutting down anything else. Or even a switch if someone wants to run it manually. Just have to be sure it is on a switched power source so it wouldn't be left ON when the truck is parked and drain the batteries.
 


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