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Rear Diff. ???'s.........

Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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Rear Diff. ???'s.........

Ok guys,I have the gears and everything to fix my rear diff.,Now,do i need to replace "all" seals,or maybe just if its been leaking?I wasn't sure if removing the axles will always destroy the seals.Thanks.....
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:30 PM
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of course you might be fine but
wouldnt you rather just fix it once
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:47 PM
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Here is a link for a 9" ford rear end rebuilding info.. Probably different than yours, but you can get some good info on rebuilding from this article..

Ford 9 Inch Rebuild/Gear Setup .: Articles
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Phil. I'd do the axle seals also. When you pull rear hubs you probably won't harm the seals, But----- if they go, it gets oil all over the rear brakes and could make you do half the work over again. Pinion seal, absolutely...look real hard at the E-brake shoes also.

Barney
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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There is no need to change the axle seals unless they are leaking. If you are replacing the ring & pinion only, you don't even have to remove the wheels. Just unbolt the axles & slide them out.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bfife
Phil. I'd do the axle seals also. When you pull rear hubs you probably won't harm the seals, But----- if they go, it gets oil all over the rear brakes and could make you do half the work over again. Pinion seal, absolutely...look real hard at the E-brake shoes also.

Barney
Barney,are we talking "outer" axle seals,or are there "inner" axle seals too?I'm gonna replace the pinion seal for sure,i just wasn't sure about the axle seals.Yeah,i was thinking e-brake shoes too,when i replaced my rotors/brakes last year i didn't replace them.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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There are large O-rings on the axle flanges. This would be considered the "outer" seal. Mine were still pliable, so I just reused them. No leaks. Just unbolt them, like said ^, and pull out far enough to remove the diff carrier. You will not be disturbing the "inner" axle seal and there is no need to, unless you are removing the hub. I had one leak several years ago and the other is still original, along with e-brks (160K + miles). I do keep another seal on hand for emergencies. At the time, no parts house had them in stock and it was on a Sunday.

Phil,
Are you replacing the ring and pinion, too? Or, just the carrier assembly?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mueckster
There are large O-rings on the axle flanges. This would be considered the "outer" seal. Mine were still pliable, so I just reused them. No leaks. Just unbolt them, like said ^, and pull out far enough to remove the diff carrier. You will not be disturbing the "inner" axle seal and there is no need to, unless you are removing the hub. I had one leak several years ago and the other is still original, along with e-brks (160K + miles). I do keep another seal on hand for emergencies. At the time, no parts house had them in stock and it was on a Sunday.

Phil,
Are you replacing the ring and pinion, too? Or, just the carrier assembly?
I'm replacing everything,ring/pinion and carrier assembly.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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true, you don't have to pull the hubs. I don't know what i was thinking. sorry for the goose chase Phil.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250
I'm replacing everything,ring/pinion and carrier assembly.
Is there something wrong with the ring and pinion also? It would be a whole lot easier to swap the ring gear to the "new" carrier and reinstall. I would prefer to keep the r&p's in matched sets.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mueckster
Is there something wrong with the ring and pinion also? It would be a whole lot easier to swap the ring gear to the "new" carrier and reinstall. I would prefer to keep the r&p's in matched sets.
If i replace the R/P and carrier from the new set i just got,wouldn't that be matched? I figured changing everything out from the newer set would be better since it has only 86,000 miles compared to my 197,000 miles.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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True. I just was trying to figure out what you were trying to do. Are you reusing the same bearings and shims from the new set, too?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mueckster
True. I just was trying to figure out what you were trying to do. Are you reusing the same bearings and shims from the new set, too?
Well,i'm gonna use the bearings from the new set,i was told by the guy i got the new set from it would be best to use the shims from the truck.He said if i used the same shims there shouldn't be much adjustment if any at all as long as the shims went back the exact way they come out.....Thoughts
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250
Well,i'm gonna use the bearings from the new set,i was told by the guy i got the new set from it would be best to use the shims from the truck.He said if i used the same shims there shouldn't be much adjustment if any at all as long as the shims went back the exact way they come out.....Thoughts
That's hard to say. I had adjustable carrier bearing shim packs and had to make changes to the shim pack thicknesses to get mine right. It will be trial and error. You will have to see what combination gives the desired results. Try the ones from the new set first and see. If you are using the same bearings on the pinion, I would leave the same shim that is already there behind the bearing. It would be diificult to remove this bearing to change the shim anyway. Do you have a way to check the backlash and gear mesh?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250
Well,i'm gonna use the bearings from the new set,i was told by the guy i got the new set from it would be best to use the shims from the truck.He said if i used the same shims there shouldn't be much adjustment if any at all as long as the shims went back the exact way they come out.....Thoughts
I would not take that advise to the bank. Maybe it would be more true if you were using the same R&P (having only to account for the carrier differences, but with a new R&P set, all bets are off. You want to spend your time here. Have a good dial indicator, some gear marking compound, and a fair amount of time (if you haven't done this before.) This is one of those jobs where you'll want to "strive" for PERFECTION.

You'll also need and in/lb wrench and a pretty big ft/lb wrench. Do you have experience setting up a differential, or some good documentation? I'd hate to see you do all this work and than have it fail in 500 miles .
 
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