Garbz,

That would also be my hunch.

Steve

 

Reconditioned heater few years ago, guess it would not hurt to disassemble and check it out once weather improves. Believe I have another resister somewhere around but been some time since I looked for replacement heater core, just my luck they are as hard to find as hen's teeth.

 

Dave, do you believe in Providence???

Click on this ...

1959 1960 1965 1966 1967 FORD TRUCK ELECTRIC HEATER NEW:eBay Motors (item 370317494040 end time Jan-12-10 19:33:44 PST)

 

I'm thinking this is the product that started the whole conversation. I think you could do a low pressure flow test without tearing your heater apart. I also would take a look at your themostat. You would want the highest temp range available.

 

For all you "purists" - cover your eyes. I had a an accessories plug/outlet added to my truck in the lighter spot. I then plug in a two-outlet converter and then plug in a tiny heater/fan. $14.99 at wally world.

 

Yes, that's it, Phillips Temro Inc.. Acquired a few obscure accessories in my time but never heard of this electric heater box, especially for the Ford truck.

Aftermarket theremostat housing developed a leak and replaced it within last 6-8 months, will never buy housing with the 'O' ring again. Also flushed the system at same time. Normally run 180 degree thermostat but seem to recall the local parts store only had a 165, did not consider the 10-15 degree difference, and may be the answer. Remember replacing it was a major task so until weather improves either freeze my backside off, or come up with a wally world type quik fix. It's never put out heat to the point needed to roll the window down, oh how I wish, but the thermostat may be a possible solution. Thanks again for the input!

 

Dave, I pulled the boot off the cab side, then removed it from the heater. I had a piece of alum sheet that I cut to basic shape, screwed to the cab side reusing original holes to block that wonderful rush of cold air. Using duct tape I sealed the positive vents that were allowing the cold air in. My truck has too many places for cold air to enter the cab competing with what little heat there is.

Dave G. had a great suggestion, flush the heater core in both directions to clear out any old mud. Do you have an inline valve in the heater hose? I'd replace that at the same time or stick 2" of 1/2" copper or pvc pipe in place of where it was til you don't need the heater any longer.

What is your coolant mix ratio? Most works at 50/50. Too much antifreese can cause your system not to hot.

Make sure the flaps are fully opening. Pull the dash knobie with the fan switch and make sure it is moving like it should.

I used to be able to run my truck on high spd fan fully out **** all day but not now. It's still a pain in the butt because of all the cold air competing.

Once you have done all of that, tell the ol truck if he don't start making better heat, you are gonna take him behind the barn and pepper his *** with rat shot to give him something to think about.




John

 

John, thanks much for the 'how to' pointers. Never had an inline valve, hoses run directly from engine block to and from heater. The coolant is at 50/50 which was changed at the same time the thermostat was swapped several months ago. As mentioned, the heater works great just puts out luke warm heat. Would be surprised to find it's the heater core but a flush would not hurt. If understand correctly I should be able to disconnect the hoses at the firewall and use garden hose to flush. In past 38 years truck has never left me stranded and admittedly curse at it on more than one occasion. Kinda guarded when it comes to physical abuse, don't want the truck version of 'Christine' and find myself subject to a kit and run on a dark secluded road. Again, thanks to all for the input!!

 

Up north we run in temps that are 50 below (occasionally worse) even at 125degrees your heater should be toasty if the air is going through a heater core in good shape, but if the air can go around at all it will follow the path of least resistance. WE do insulate all heater hoses so that temp loss will be a minimum between the motor and the heater core. I use the cheap pipe insulation in 3 foot sections with a split in them and it works great. One thing to look for and I don't remember how these were set up, but a lot of old rigs the heater core surrounded with foam rubber that will deteriorate causing the fins to be blocked and letting the air go around it, The air has to be channelled through it.

 

An old plymouth volarie i had long ago had a 6x9 rear window defroster heater, it worked perty good as i recall... i still have it in the shed somewhere, i took it out for 6x9 speakers.

 

Like starmilt said insulate your heater hoses. I use the 3/4" pipe wraparound and some duct tape. It definately helps. I cant say the cab is toasty but it was -20 here last night on my 85 and I could have sat in there without a coat.

 

I had a 72f100 I put a 160 thermostat in and never could keep the cab warm going down the road swiched back to a 185 and that made a lot of difference. On my 65 f250 I had to tape off all the holes in the firewall, the air doors. and seal a crack in the seal on the windshield seal

 

Intend making hardware trip in a.m for 3/4" insulation, have 1/2" but suspect too small and will check in the morning. As mentioned, been driving the truck for quite some time and the heater has not been a major issue. The only change was the thermostat swap few months back so will wait for Napa parts to open on monday. If there's no significant improvement then I will look at some of the other suggestions. Thanks for the info guys, really appreciate it, been lots of help!!

 

Dave, I'm wondering by chance you got the thermo in backwards or something. I still have my money on a flow problem. If it would make hot air before it still should. ND has eeeeeextreeem low temps, all helps are needed, but somehow I doubt that you really need insulation in your case. just my O




John

 

160 thermostat is to cold for the winter.put a hotter thermostat in there.a 185 will make a differance.personaly i run a 195 year round with out any problems.