Replacing headlight switch
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 20
From: Nixa
Pry the greyish trim strip off the dash front. there are little slots underneath to put a small screw driver in and pop it off. there you will find some screws, take them out. I can't remember if there are any other screws to remove or not.
Once all the screws are out you can pull the dash panel away. then you can see the switch, held in by 2 screws. But before you remove the switch, pull the **** out and you will find a tab behind it, use a screwdriver to press that tab, pull the **** as you push on the tab.
Now you can undo the 2 screws. pull the switch out and turn it over and you will see the wire block, I believe there are screws there to undo.
Now you can clean off the connectors and plug your new switch in and put it all back together.
I've done this twice on my 93, and it's a piece of cake.
Once all the screws are out you can pull the dash panel away. then you can see the switch, held in by 2 screws. But before you remove the switch, pull the **** out and you will find a tab behind it, use a screwdriver to press that tab, pull the **** as you push on the tab.
Now you can undo the 2 screws. pull the switch out and turn it over and you will see the wire block, I believe there are screws there to undo.
Now you can clean off the connectors and plug your new switch in and put it all back together.
I've done this twice on my 93, and it's a piece of cake.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 20
From: Nixa
I don't know if it specificly a 93 problem or not, but I have seen the question about the switch a few times on here.
My problem turned out to be a shorted wire, that my mechanic found in the rear lights harness. It had a burned spot on the plugthat is on the switch. When I replaced the switch both times, I didn't see the burnt spot. i took the truck to the mechanic because I could figure out why my rear lights weren't working. He pulled the switch out and found that burnt spot. Luckly I guess, it didn't kill the switch that time.
My problem turned out to be a shorted wire, that my mechanic found in the rear lights harness. It had a burned spot on the plugthat is on the switch. When I replaced the switch both times, I didn't see the burnt spot. i took the truck to the mechanic because I could figure out why my rear lights weren't working. He pulled the switch out and found that burnt spot. Luckly I guess, it didn't kill the switch that time.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 111
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Thanks for the help. Was an easy job and works fine. Running lights stopped working with old switch depending on where the dimmer for dash was. But it's good now. But my plug has some burnt/melted areas around some of the conections, should I replace the plastic part of the plug, do the female connectors just slide out of the plastic plug. But everything is working fine.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Bel Air USA
I'd be more concerned about the female connectors then the plastic part. A possible reason for the plastic part melting is a poor connection between the female and male connection. Another posbile reason would be excessive heat in the switch itself which transferred through to the connector. It would be in your best interest to determine which is the case. The female connector can generally be released by inserting a small jeweler's screwdriver in from the back of the connector and releasing a catch tab.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 20
From: Nixa
Just what Kioolt said. My mechanic did just that replaced the female end after tracing the whole wire he found nothing wrong with the wire, just the connector.
I remember someone else saying something about the switch overheating on these trucks, but I don't anything about it.
My 92 hasn't had any problems with the switch.
I remember someone else saying something about the switch overheating on these trucks, but I don't anything about it.
My 92 hasn't had any problems with the switch.
