i know this should be in the older section here but i haven't gottenany help on it, but any help is appreciated.

my girlfriends got this 79 f100 302, this morning she was driving her brother to class and it just quit out of the blue like you shut the key off. i am at school so i called my buddy back home to go out there to get it running or drag it back to her <NOBR id=itxt_nobr_0_0 style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: darkgreen">house</NOBR>. when he got there he told her just to crank it and it started puttering then fired right up. when i was talking to her before he got there she said it was cranking pretty strong it just wasnt hitting on any cylinders. none of the ignition is very old. two years max. i was thinking maybe the ignition switch as sometimes when you start it the radio and blower dont work untill you shut it off and restart it. any thoughts other than the switch??

Also i want to put a bigger internaly regulated alternator in it. just by looking at it i think one from a 89 <NOBR id=itxt_nobr_1_0 style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: darkgreen">truck</NOBR> looks like it will bolt up to it no problem, can i just swap the pullys and have it all line up? also what wires from the old regulator do i need to hook up to the "new" alternator?

im pretty sure that the stalling is only the switch but what is the highest amp alternator factory that i can find in a junk yard and what type of truck should i be looking for??

thanks all

 

I think switch too, but if the dash is working I'd look at the ignition module.

Skip the 2G alternators unless the chance of fire excites you.
It is not so hard to swap to a 3G but realize that you will loose the factory ammeter.
These come in 95A and 130A ratings.
You can find them in almost any 90's Taurus/Mustang etc...

The only wire you need for a 3G is the green/red wire to excite it.

If you really do want a 2G, PM me and I will send you my old one WITH the harness for the cost of shipping.

 

Does her truck have a serpentine belt. If not you will need to change the pulley in addition to the wiring.

Check out this page: LINK

I had a Mustang a couple of years newer and it gave me grief with the same symptoms! I think it was the ignition module.

Good luck,
Lance

 

what physical differences are there between the 2g and 3g? like size castings? from what i understand from the link it will bolt right up to the existing brakets on her 79? and what cars would i find them on? years bodies? thank you for all the helps guys

 

Your truck is a '96? You should have one of the first 3G alternators Just take it form yours

I don't know what to take it from. There are about half a dozen different form factors of 3G alternator.

The guy who runs the site the link came from, sells brand new 95 amp 3G alternators for about $100. He also sells the new cabling required for the 3G. Here is the link. Tell him what you have and he will fix you up with the right form factor. I am not associated with the seller. However I have items from him, but not an alternator.

I upgraded my alt from the 60 amp 2g to the 95 3g when it burned out in my truck.

Good luck.

 

Ford Fuel Injection Alternator Files shows all the 1,2,3,4&6G views.
Here is a comparison from the site that lmd91343 linked to:





As for 3G alternators there are two output ratings (95A & 130A.) and 3 body styles 7" C-C, 8.25" C-C & side mount for later vehicles.
You can tell the difference in amperage at a glance by the number of holes on the front of the cast housing.
There are 3 pairs of 'webs' cast in. If it has 2 holes between them (as pictured above) it is a 130A. If there are 4 then it is a 95A alternator.

You will need a thin washer to put behind your V belt pulley to keep it from rubbing the housing. - It has a 15mm shaft...
You will also need to tap and Helicoil the adjuster hole to 3/8" NC or buy a longer 8mm metric flange bolt and nut in order to use your existing tensioner.

Hope this helps.

 

Just get a higher amp 1G.
Then put a larger wire and fuse link to the starter solenoid from the stud on the alternator.
May also have to change regulator.

 

thank you for the info ARD that helps me alot. the reason i wanted to go to a 2 or 3 G was to get rid of the mechanical regulator, plus it looks neater haveing less crap under the hood. im gonna make a junkyard run this weekend to look for one. also probly replace the ignition switch and module since they are both easy and relativly cheap. thanks for all the help and i didnt know about the whole fire issue with the 2g so im glad i ask here.