Help Cold Starting Problem
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Help Cold Starting Problem
I have a 1994 F350 that starts from about 35 and up degrees. I used a circuit testerall the glow plugs test good. the wait to start light comes on for atleast 15 seconds this morning it was about 15 degrees might have stayed on a little longer. I dont keep the truck plugged in. Any one out there that has any ideas?
Nick
Nick
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
You are setting the fuel pedal/fast idle and pressing the fuel pedal 1/2 way down and starting right after the WTS light goes out......
Is the fast idle and timing advance workin...... How long do you crank it over........ and how fast is it.
Is the fast idle and timing advance workin...... How long do you crank it over........ and how fast is it.
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yes I believe i am when i shut the key off I can hear the pedal click back. When its warm it cranks 15-20 seconds and it starts off fast then slows down after the 15-20 seconds. Any thing sound not right batteries are about 3 years old. Im not sure about the timing advance?
Nick
Nick
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Might be the amount of power hitting the plugs. I had this happen last night when it wouldnt start. Found no power to the plugs, well it was a couple volts but you get the idea. Found a loose nut holding on the two yellow leads. Might be your controller. It shouldnt take that long. Mine will kick over in half a second at 30 degrees F and about a revolution at 15-20F. !5-20 seconds of cranking will murder a starter quick as hell. Also if it is cranking that long when warm i wonder if you dont have a fuel issue, like a small air intrusion.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,714
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From: Canton, IL
Sounds like the GP relay on top of the controller is not working. Only about 20 bucks, I'd just replace it since you say your GP's test good. 15-20 seconds of cranking at above freezing tells me that your Gp's aren't working.
Also, wreckinball has a point, air intrusion, check around your injectors to see if you find any sign of diesel leaking. If so, replace the return lines and fittings.
Also, wreckinball has a point, air intrusion, check around your injectors to see if you find any sign of diesel leaking. If so, replace the return lines and fittings.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Unless you have a clamp on DC amp gauge, checking the power going to the glow plugs will be hard.
Even one glow plug can draw 24 amps, and that is more than most multimeters can handle in the amp mode.
If the relay contacts are pitted and burnt, you might be getting some power through, but not enough amps to heat the plugs.
Also check the cassis to engine harness connector near the dip stick for signs of overheating on the end of the connector with the two larger gauge wires.
They should be either tan or yellow.
The are battery power to the glow plug relay, and a little corrosion in that connector will make it overheat and melt.
Once that happens, the glow plugs will not work right.
Only fix is to cut both large wires close to the connector on both sides and splice them around the connector.
Use CAUTION, the chassis side wires have battery voltage at all times.
Even one glow plug can draw 24 amps, and that is more than most multimeters can handle in the amp mode.
If the relay contacts are pitted and burnt, you might be getting some power through, but not enough amps to heat the plugs.
Also check the cassis to engine harness connector near the dip stick for signs of overheating on the end of the connector with the two larger gauge wires.
They should be either tan or yellow.
The are battery power to the glow plug relay, and a little corrosion in that connector will make it overheat and melt.
Once that happens, the glow plugs will not work right.
Only fix is to cut both large wires close to the connector on both sides and splice them around the connector.
Use CAUTION, the chassis side wires have battery voltage at all times.
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Thanks all my diesel pals! Great to get so much help and info. He what i did checked everything sugested, only thing I really found was a small piece of insulation missing off one of the glow plug wires, repaired it. I had the batterys checked the other day and was told they were ok. I was sure so I threw some new motorcraft batteries in with 850 cranking amp each and it fired right up. Apparently the batteries were so marginal that they were cutting it in the cold or with out having it plugged in. Thanks again awesome first experiance in the forum.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bozeman, Montana
same thing just happened to me two days ago. gp's are working fine and it would take 15-20 sec to fire, then no juice! Bought two of napa's heavy duty batteries and voila!- barely hit the starter and voom! just needed a little more battery. by the way it was -20F that night!
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