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Ok, try and make a long story short. Couple of years ago while replacing the wiring harness atop manifold I also replace the fuel return lines and caps with kit provided from local Ford dealer. Since then I have put on only about 20,000 miles at best and have been quite aggrivated by the low quality of the kit. I have had a few of the fuel lines I replaced split and have now replaced about half the system or the complete passenger side.
In doing so I have also re-replaced the o-rings with ones from Ford dealer as I have gone down the line.
Problem I can't get a couple of them to quit leaking and have replace them like three time. Tried with O-ring lube and or dry but it continues to lead from bottom of cap ever so slightly and onto the manifold. I swear its the cap but not sure and it really is a bit of a cheesy design.
I thought I was the only one with this problem! Welcome Hay-Day! keep asking and reading on here,these guys are top of the line! Im still working on the same thing but I almost got it whipped.
It very well could be. I felt like the replacement caps that I got from the dealer were not near as thick or of as good quality. Does anyone sell a better replacement cap or design enhancement?
Central UT. Diesel shops etc. are all around here as diesels are quite popular in this state but the couple I have talked to just say try it again which I have several times. Tired of turning same wrench thats why I thought I'd try this form. Ive even thought about machining my own caps but seems hardly worth it if their are already some out their for sale
go to a shop and pick up a return line kit and toss it on the kit will come with fuel line ,o-rings ,clamps ,caps ,and copper washers for the injectors.when you install the caps on the injectors put some vasaline on the o-rings before you snap the caps on and you will hear a snap when they go on.
Central UT. Diesel shops etc. are all around here as diesels are quite popular in this state but the couple I have talked to just say try it again which I have several times. Tired of turning same wrench thats why I thought I'd try this form. Ive even thought about machining my own caps but seems hardly worth it if their are already some out their for sale
You just said something that got my attention! Just think guys a shiny spun aluminum return cap with brass barb fittings for the return lines. Man that would look good and perform forever! What's your price, I'll order mine now.
You just said something that got my attention! Just think guys a shiny spun aluminum return cap with brass barb fittings for the return lines. Man that would look good and perform forever! What's your price, I'll order mine now.
about a year ago that subject came up and they figured it just wouldnt be cost effective by the time you got done and it wouldnt work right.i cant exactly remember the reasoning though.ill have to try and find the thread
When I did mine a while ago (4-5 years?) I couldn't find out what material the o-rings were, or could be...I wish I had as I worked at a place where we used Viton o-rings by the dozens. However, I can see why Viton would last longer, it is more resistant to higher heat than Buna (standard black) o-rings are.
i got the same prob. i paid a diesel shop like 4 years ago to fix my leaks. now i have leaks where the metal lines go into these black caps. i guess i unscrew the nut on the metal fuel line , what do i do next, pull the metal line out and pull the black cap off and change the black caps and o rings???? do i have to take the injectors out???? my local diesel shop wants 150 bucks to do it, i want to save the cash. ive fixed tons of lawn equip. over the years. i have a kit from napa with the black caps line and o rings.
When you repair one you have to do the whole side even if you did it a week ago, once you run the motor the orings take on a hardness aand if they are disturbed even the slightest amount it will leak. There is no way to do one with out disturbing the rest and you will be chasing leaks forever. I also think that some of the caps distort I usually buy a kit instead of changing the orings.
Now this is complete theory but I think it is at least part of the problem some of us has had problems. I always take at least one side and lay them on the kitchen table (this nearly always causes a problem) and take my kit lay it out next to it and cut the hoses and put it all together then install them. Now sometimes when you do this the lines are not completly straight they have a slight bend in them because I cut it a hair long.
Here is my theory the bend in the line actuslly puts a slight bit of pressure on the T making it not set normal, nothing the eye can see,but I think this might be a causeof premature failure. But like others I do not think all caps are created equal.
I also think pressure washing is enough to disturb the caps.
i got the same prob. i paid a diesel shop like 4 years ago to fix my leaks. now i have leaks where the metal lines go into these black caps. i guess i unscrew the nut on the metal fuel line , what do i do next, pull the metal line out and pull the black cap off and change the black caps and o rings???? do i have to take the injectors out???? my local diesel shop wants 150 bucks to do it, i want to save the cash. ive fixed tons of lawn equip. over the years. i have a kit from napa with the black caps line and o rings.
what you do is take all the fuel lines loose from the injectors and just pu;; the caps off some will probably be stubborn and you may break the caps which is why the whole kit is a good idea.the copper washers that come in the kit are for the bottom of the injectors i always put them on some people dont.make sure to remember how the hoses are routed and install the new hose the same way.its an easy job to do yourself.i wouldnt pay somebody $150 to do it for me
When you take the lines loseyou can move it with a little force but do not bend (kink) it enough to remove the plastic T's cut your lines and put the new one together as an assembly one side at a time. Now you have to remove the 2 orings of of each injector, a small pic makes this easy. Now lubricate the new orings and install the top one first, then you can roll the bottom one over the top one into the gruve after you've done all 4 on that side you can get your assembly in place and then snap each one down now do the other side. Before you remove them look visually at them and mentally note app how far down they go and you will be able to feel it snap where it goes.
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