heater woes
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 311
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From: Santa Barbara and Ottawa
heater woes
The joy of winter...and very little heat in the cab. I think there is a very slight increase in temp if the dial is twisted all the way to the red.
Engine (eventually) warms up, and there is heat on both of the smaller hoses that go from the cooling system through the firewall to the heater core and back. Both hoses are nice and toasty, so presumably the core isn't blocked, or one would be cooler?
I'm somewhat suspicious the dial to adjust heat isn't actuating the flap that usually exists that lets warmed up air leave the housing of the core. I don't hear any sighing or clunking when twisting it one way or the other.
Anyone know the mechanisms involved behind the cabin temp dial on the dash? (Did I mention I really hate working on anything behind the dash?).
Truck has A/C if that makes a difference. It's my first winter with the ol gal.
Engine (eventually) warms up, and there is heat on both of the smaller hoses that go from the cooling system through the firewall to the heater core and back. Both hoses are nice and toasty, so presumably the core isn't blocked, or one would be cooler?
I'm somewhat suspicious the dial to adjust heat isn't actuating the flap that usually exists that lets warmed up air leave the housing of the core. I don't hear any sighing or clunking when twisting it one way or the other.
Anyone know the mechanisms involved behind the cabin temp dial on the dash? (Did I mention I really hate working on anything behind the dash?).
Truck has A/C if that makes a difference. It's my first winter with the ol gal.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
this one is easy.
pop the trim piece that goes accross the dash.
Grab a t15 and pull the 2 screws for the bezel.
use the t15 again for the 4 screws, and its out.
=)
take some pictures and check it out on here. I've worked on a few of the setups.
The blend door is actuated by a wire on a rack and pinion.
Sometimes it will jump teeth, but you'll know, cause the dial wont turn all the way.
pop the trim piece that goes accross the dash.
Grab a t15 and pull the 2 screws for the bezel.
use the t15 again for the 4 screws, and its out.
=)
take some pictures and check it out on here. I've worked on a few of the setups.
The blend door is actuated by a wire on a rack and pinion.
Sometimes it will jump teeth, but you'll know, cause the dial wont turn all the way.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
I'm thinking about the new water neck.
It is quite amusing how much heat they make in the summer time, but come winter, they act like they will never warm up.
The filler neck sounds like a good idea though. Supposedly the 94's already had the 203Tstat in them.
Do you have a water neck link?
I'm going to pull my fan off mine actually. Driving down the road, the in dash thermometer is reading far lower than normal summer time driving.
One of the reasons i want to do electric fans, Can just turn them off in the winter time. Cooling systems on our trucks work really good when its cold out. heh.
It is quite amusing how much heat they make in the summer time, but come winter, they act like they will never warm up.
The filler neck sounds like a good idea though. Supposedly the 94's already had the 203Tstat in them.
Do you have a water neck link?
I'm going to pull my fan off mine actually. Driving down the road, the in dash thermometer is reading far lower than normal summer time driving.
One of the reasons i want to do electric fans, Can just turn them off in the winter time. Cooling systems on our trucks work really good when its cold out. heh.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
From: NW Wisc
Heres a good link, look at the very bottom and it'll show a water neck and get you to the right page!!
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=186
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=186
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 311
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From: Santa Barbara and Ottawa
So miserably cold outside I didn't try and take a picture, but the dial is a vacuum control 
. I think at this point what I want to find is where the heater core is, and if I can just force open the blend door I'll call it good until I can work without the thick gloves on.
. I think at this point what I want to find is where the heater core is, and if I can just force open the blend door I'll call it good until I can work without the thick gloves on.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,247
Likes: 7,666
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
remove glove box, remove cover from heater box behind glove box, remove ink pen from blend door re assemble everything.
don't waste your money on a 203 thermostat jut go to ford and get one.
don't waste your money on a 203 thermostat jut go to ford and get one.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Santa Barbara and Ottawa
Well, as mentioned ITS FREAKING COLD. Beg pardon, had to get that out of my system.
My fingers weren't adept enough to get the glove box out, but I did hunt around under seat, above where your feet go and below and behind the dash, so it was all visible if I contorted myself.
I can see the plastic housing of the heater core.
Towards the driver's side of the arrangement is a white plastic lever which is actuated by some kind of electric motor. There is a single big green wire going to the back of actuator. I move the white plastic lever by hand and the actuator makes a suction noise.
It occurs to me the big green wire could be part of a sensor, and the actuator is entirely vacuum driven.
I am hoping this white lever is what blends more heat in. I've wedged it open and am about to go for a test drive.
I guess I should fire it up and see if the actuator does anything before wedging it. So annoying to have it vacuum driven in the first place.
My fingers weren't adept enough to get the glove box out, but I did hunt around under seat, above where your feet go and below and behind the dash, so it was all visible if I contorted myself.
I can see the plastic housing of the heater core.
Towards the driver's side of the arrangement is a white plastic lever which is actuated by some kind of electric motor. There is a single big green wire going to the back of actuator. I move the white plastic lever by hand and the actuator makes a suction noise.
It occurs to me the big green wire could be part of a sensor, and the actuator is entirely vacuum driven.
I am hoping this white lever is what blends more heat in. I've wedged it open and am about to go for a test drive.
I guess I should fire it up and see if the actuator does anything before wedging it. So annoying to have it vacuum driven in the first place.
Last edited by triskadek; Jan 3, 2010 at 01:40 PM. Reason: duh
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 507
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From: NW Wisc
Oh I do, friggin Ford couldn't leave well enough alone, my opinion they should still be making OBS style with the 7.3 !!!!!!
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Santa Barbara and Ottawa
So. The good news is the white plastic lever attached to the actuator is in fact the blend control lever. I wedged it open and magically the cabin is heated!
I am still unclear about the actuator itself.
Testing if the actuator or the vacuum lines or the dial controller are the problem will be a PITA I'm sure, but for now I have heat.
I am still unclear about the actuator itself.
Testing if the actuator or the vacuum lines or the dial controller are the problem will be a PITA I'm sure, but for now I have heat.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 7,841
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From: Vacaville, Ca
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Santa Barbara and Ottawa
Hahah I only just figured out the pen...Yes if only it was that simple, but I am _never_ that lucky.
What I'm really wondering now is WTH is the thing I'm calling the actuator. As far as I can tell from pictures and diagrams I've found on the 'net, the actual actuator (pardon I couldn't resist) is up higher, and you must remove the glove box to see it.
The thingus I found attached to the white plastic lever I wedged open looks nothing like the actuators in the pics. Mine is cylindrical with a rubber boot where it actuates the white plastic lever. I think the vacuum hoses lead in to it, but I really need to verify that (when it is warmer or at least not snowing). It definitely has a relatively heavy gauge green wire connected to the back.
The actuaters in the pictures are rectangular boxes, appear electrical only, and apparently have a penchant for busting on the keyed end. There is a cheap fix to make your own new key with a filed nail. I like cheap fixes.
What I'm really wondering now is WTH is the thing I'm calling the actuator. As far as I can tell from pictures and diagrams I've found on the 'net, the actual actuator (pardon I couldn't resist) is up higher, and you must remove the glove box to see it.
The thingus I found attached to the white plastic lever I wedged open looks nothing like the actuators in the pics. Mine is cylindrical with a rubber boot where it actuates the white plastic lever. I think the vacuum hoses lead in to it, but I really need to verify that (when it is warmer or at least not snowing). It definitely has a relatively heavy gauge green wire connected to the back.
The actuaters in the pictures are rectangular boxes, appear electrical only, and apparently have a penchant for busting on the keyed end. There is a cheap fix to make your own new key with a filed nail. I like cheap fixes.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,247
Likes: 7,666
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
not sure what that pod is but on all the obs trucks I have done heater / ac work on the blending door is operated by a wire running from the temp control to the blend door. if I get time in the morning I will look at mine and see if I can figure it out